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  • SCMS 12 Inch Blade Quality OR Saw Problem???

    Yesterday, I posted my positive experiences with my newly purchased MS1290LS. Upon using the equipment to test cut some 1 x 4 pine, I noticed two things that kinda bothered me:

    1. While the miter cut was perpendicular to the fence (at 90 degrees), the cut did not remain straight when viewed from the top to the bottom of the cut. For example, at the leading edge (closest to me) of the stock, the cut surface was 1 to 2 degrees slanted left while at the edge of the stock closest to the fence, the cut was 1 to 2 degrees slanted to the right. I tried variations on ways to crosscut the stock..... (a) with arbor directly over the middle of the stock like a chop saw and (b)using the slider and cutting from front to back like it says on the equipment label. Every time, I allowed the saw to come to a stop after making the cut. I got the very same results each time. I find it hard to believe that you can get this kind of variation over a 4 inch miter cut (where the bevel angle is set and statically confirmed to be at 90 degrees)!

    2. When trying to trim off a 1/16 inch (equivalent to the blade kerf) from the end of the stock, THE BLADE APPEARED TO SHIFT while making the cut(the stock did not move as I had it clamped down)!! This resulted in a very uneven trim cut over a 4 inch miter cut. The spooky thing was that, while making the trim cut, I observed the blade to also oscilate or flex. At first, I thought the arbor screw was not in tight. If this was the case, I would expect to see the blade wobble. What I actually observed was the blade actually flex while spinning. After stopping and unplugging the equipment, I used my thumb to apply lateral pressure on the side of the blade near the teeth. The blade seemed to be very flexible but no more flexible than other 12 inch blades on the PC miter saw or the Ryobi miter saw at HD (I checked these out this evening). However, there seemed to be some play at the arbor bearing that resulted in almost a 1/16 inch lateral (side to side) play at the outer edge of the blade.

    The $64,000 questions are:

    Is the poor cut quality due to the quality of the Ridgid supplied saw blade OR do I have a problem with the arbor bearings???

    OR

    Am I being unrealistic about what to expect from the MS1290LS???

    I am hoping someone out there can advise me on this with your own personal experiences.

    Waiting and anxious in Orangeville, Ontario!!!!
    Chris Berg

  • #2
    If it was me I would take it back and try a different one....This doesn't sound like you have a saw worth playing with...and if the second one does the same thing get a DW...

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    • #3
      I have noticed quite a variation on the display saws in terms of tolerances. The last HD I checked the saw appeared perfect, others were very bad in bearings and slide.. I have a Makita ls1013 and bought it because it has excellent accuracy. If you want the Ridgid I would try another and check it out before you leave the store. The Ridgid stock blades are not very good for accurate cuts. I would also buy a Freud or DeWalt blade.

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      • #4
        not sure what blade they put on the saw from the factory but if its a thin kerf they will flex especially on triming cuts I'd get a good blade and try it then see of ot still is bad also miter saws need lots of tlc to get them really acurate. i thought mine was good outof the box but a buddy came over and we really went over it now its dead nuts accurate bill

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        • #5
          I have read that on other sites too about thin kerf sawblades. I won'tput one on my contractor saw for that reason but I know others that won't put em on mitre saws either

          Jake

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          • #6
            I haven't used one, but I have been looking at sliding miter saws and I think I would definitely bite the bullet and buy the Bosch 4412. It is $700, which is more than any other one I have looked at, but it comes with a premium blade, and so many other features that no other can come close in that area. Also, I have read mostly good reviews, especially after a couple of improvements have been made.
            All I know is I lust after this beautiful saw. The Ridgids didn't seem quite as refined as the other ones in their class.

            For those that may read another post I wrote with a question about another Bosch product, I am not a troll. I have all brands of tools, as I look for the best of an individual tools kind, on a case by case basis (as do many of the people on this site).
            MNSHO (My not so humble opinion).

            Comment


            • #7
              Don't these people from Ridgid respond to posts on here, or is this just a place to talk and nothing more. I bought the MS1290LZ because they looked like they could do the job. But since have concluded the quality control in manufacturing is lacking. I traded in the first one for another and it was worse than the first.
              All the saws on display seem good it's just this last batch of saws that seem to have the problems. I wish Ridgid would say bring it in and we will fix it, But they keep saying take it back and get another one. Ha guys They all seem like they have problems. Come on now folks I realy wanted this saw, but if you don't want us, I guess it's Makita time.
              oops

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              • #8
                Re: SCMS 12 Inch Blade Quality OR Saw Problem???

                I have a LZ model from HD thats about 5 1/2 yrs old... and I'm disgusted. I thought that I was the only one with this tracking problem and now it appears that I;m not. I figured that I had done something wrong. You can square the fence and table all day long but the tubes will still track out of square when extended all the way out (to about 1/8" out of square!!) I'm going to contact a tech and see if I can't get a new power head from an "A" model sent out to see if the newly produced models have fixed this issue yet. It's as if the bearing that supports the powerhead were pressed in incorrectly or the casting was not correct, either way it's completely unacceptable to sell a miter saw that doesn't friggin cut straight. A 600$ Saw that can't cut a straight line is as good as scrap. I was young(er) when I bought this saw and thought it was the cats ***... big dual bevel with a friggin lazer on it's forehead.(which is also worthless btw) Now that I'm older and have wasted several hundred feet in crown cutoffs that didn't matchup and cursing my math and ability, I find that it wasn't me all along.... I found all this out today! five years later! OY! Do yourself a favor if you haven't already bought this boat anchor yet and get youself a mikita.

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