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Rigid R5010 1/2 Hammer drill QUESTIONS

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  • Rigid R5010 1/2 Hammer drill QUESTIONS

    Well I picked one of these up over the weekend, loved the feel and it seems like a quality tool. I went in to HD to purchase the Milwaukee 5378-20 1/2 hammer drill, but the keyless chuck and case pushed me to Rigid. Anybody used one of these R5010s? I am wondering how the keyless chuck will hold up drilling in to cement? I chucked up a drill bit and tightened it (does not take much) I just wonder if it's going to hold the bit? Also what's the the use of the pulse setting? that's for any help. I just want to make sure I got the right tool before I use it.

  • #2
    Hi Titan---welcome. We're in pretty close to being in the same boat. I wanted a hammer drill and hit HD on Sunday. Wanted to look at the Ridgid, since I hadn't heard any complaints on their corded handtools. As luck would have it, they had one out, set up to try it out.

    Had some concrete and brick for practice and a 1/4" masonry bit in the drill----drilled about 1/8" into the brick and it quit---noticed that none of the other holes were more than 1/4" deep---and it wasn't the the bit was slipping in the chuck. While I knew display pieces can get abused---I couldn't help thinking what if it gets dropped??

    Anyway, I bought the Milwaukee and it really seems great.

    As to keyless chucks in general, I don't know if the Ridgid is a different design, but if I do any heavy duty drilling with my Makita, it's keyless chuck will loosen up----with average drilling, it's fine----I just know, from my own experiences drilling concrete, etc, if you hit a piece of aggreget, the drill wants to catch---don't know how a keyless would do with that.
    Dave

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    • #3
      I bought the hammer drill this weekend also. It's one of the German made Ridgid tools - basically a Metabo. I haven't used it much but did drill a few test holes in concrete with a 1/2 bit - sunk the whole 12 inches of bit easily. I also bought the 18v cordless hammer drill and surprisingly it did almost as well, though obviously not as fast. I had been thinking I would keep just one of these, but I like them both.

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      • #4
        Another thing comes to mind - the hammer drill has an adjustable clutch to protect the operator if the bit jams. On the lowest settings it slips pretty easily. I wonder if the demo drill had its clutch set too low.

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        • #5
          ethcad---I thought of that to---but if that was the case, it wouldn't release, because the first thing after it stopped was to hold it in the air and try to get the bit to move---I physically had to rattle the chuck and shaft to get it to run again. While I certainly agree, coming from the Metabo family is a good recommendation---just concerned about how far out on the branch of the family tree it was.
          Dave

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          • #6
            Thanks for the feedback. I am wondering if I should wait for more user feedback before using this tool? Does anybody know how to adjust the clutch on this drill?

            Also, dumb question number 2.

            When I was handling the Milwakee 5878-20 I noticed it kicks and comes up to full speed very quickly but the Rigid R5010 start a little slower and does not kick. Does this mean the Milwaukee has a stronger motor? It's rated at 7.5 amps and max RPM of 2500, the Rigid is 9.0 amps and max RPM of 3000?

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            • #7
              titan---I've noticed the little kick on the Mil' as well. Only thing I can think of is if yours might have a soft strart, but never heard of that feature outside of routers.
              Dave

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              • #8
                ALOT OF HAMMER DRILLs have soft start( bosch hammers comes to mind) the pulse action is to get your hole lined up and started. if this drill has the same insides as a metabo than it will be a good drill. as far as milw 5378-20 and the 5376-20 are good drills.

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                • #9
                  This tool has a soft start feature! It is an ergonomic feature, which allows you to start the tool with out fighting the torque of the motor.
                  As far as the clutch, there are two dials on the tool, one for setting maximum speed, the other sets the maximum torque. When a certan torque limit is reached, the tool will stop. I think this is what happened with the demo tool, the torque dial was most likely set too low. For normal drilling and hammer drilling, the torque dial should be set to the maximum. The torque limiting dial is great for screwdriving. There is an internal clutch that can not be set.

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                  • #10
                    Thanks for the info guys!! I assume the keyless chuck also worked for you with no problems?

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                    • #11
                      Titan, use the tool as hard as you would normally, if it breaks or does not proform to your liking take it back within 90 days and get your money back no questions asked thats rigids 90 day gaurentee

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                      • #12
                        Titan, sorry it took a few days to get back. The chuck is the heaviest duty keyless chuck that is made for portable tools. The only thing to be aware of, there is no retention screw, so if you run the tool under moderate to high torque in reverse (breaking a tight screw or bolt loose)the chuck could unscrew itself from the tool!

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                        • #13
                          Thanks, Techguy!! So far I love the drill!! No problems, I am really glad I gave Ridgid a try. This and my 4 1/2" grinder are great tools.

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