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Non Ridgid 4ah replacement batteries?

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  • Non Ridgid 4ah replacement batteries?

    Saw this on Amazon today. Wondering if anyone here has tried these? $38 per battery for a 4ah would be cheap if you are just getting batteries and you don't care about the warranty. Just curious if anyone has any experience with them.
    https://www.amazon.com/Powerextra-18...1AEDTYRSVN35NC

  • #2
    Powerextra 18-Volt 4.0Ah Lithium Ion Replacement Battery for RIDGID R840087 R840083 RIDGID 18V Drill - - Amazon.com

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    • #3
      I would spend a little more and get OEM batteries myself. 2 pack at home depot is $99 http://www.homedepot.com/p/RIDGID-18...087P/205999648

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      • #4
        I bought a couple (Biswaye brand, but I think all the knockoffs like Powerextra are the same.) They seem to work fine -- just have to use them a while to see how they last. I put one in my Ridgid 18v fan and it's still going at max after 6 hours.

        I did notice when charging in Gen5x charger, at the end when the battery is full, the "Defective" indicator (on the charger) comes on. Not sure why or if it affects anything.

        [update] After the fan finally stopped at almost 7 hours, I recharged the battery and it got a full charge and no error like it did when I first charged it out-of-the-box.
        Last edited by jaftwo; 08-27-2017, 05:19 PM.

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        • #5
          I haven't had mine 13 years. However I did get my first cordless set about 9 years ago.
          When I bought mine it was pretty clear I had to register the entire kit within 90 days to get the Lifetime Service Agreement (LSA) to be honored. I registered the kit, saved all the information including my customer ID number needed when you need to use the LSA.
          Luckily I've only needed to use the LSA twice over the years on different tools and have never had an issue getting batteries and tools worked on since I registered and saved all the documents I needed.

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          • #6
            You might damage the tools if you overload it though. Ridgid batteries have two MOSFETs back-to-back between the battery and the negative terminal which functions as a soft switch as well as an I^2t electronic circuit breaker. When a Ridgid tool is overloaded, sometimes you will experience a battery-trip. That is when the tool shuts off, the gauge button does not work and you have to pull and reinsert the battery to wake the battery.

            A stalled blade might draw such a current that it might trigger a near instantaneous trip on the battery's factory I^2t profile. If the tool is designed to depend on the battery's electronic circuit breaker to protect itself, then an aftermarket battery with an incorrect I^2t profile would either cause excessive nuisance trips or burn out the speed controller or the motor winding. Having safeties on both sides adds series resistance which lowers performance and run time, so if it's got to be in one place, it's better to have it on the battery side, because things getting pushed beyond the limits in the tool usually just means tool gets ruined, but when actual cells get pushed beyond the limit, that could mean flame shooting out the battery pack.
            Last edited by Moar; 12-15-2019, 07:11 AM.

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            • #7
              The pack isn't crap, despite what anyone who hasn't torn one apart to see what's in there thinks. If your tools are your livelihood, then the LSA Ridgid offers on their batteries is hard to beat, as long as you jump thru all their hoops, but you shouldn't have any issues running any of these cheaper packs if you need a spare while waiting for your Ridgid pack to get replaced or just can't afford the warranty costs of the official ones to start with.

              It has every bit as much garbage inside it as an official pack and the welds on the battery tabs are good. The soldering of the tabs to the board isn't the greatest, but it's decent enough. The board has no protective conformal coating on it, but the job Ridigid does of putting it on their boards is all but worthless anyway.





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              • #8
                I recently replaced batteries dated from 2008 (NiCads), and 2009 (Li). I think the Lis were done a year ago, but one of the NiCads was still going OK, just didn't hold charge for any length of time in the end. I still have a battery from 2013 that is still going fine. I think ~ 10 years (maybe 9 average if I am honest), is a decent life for a battery. These 6 batteries, all RIDGID, all signed up for LSA, and all replaced with no issues. Do you think the off-brand battery will be of the same quality and give you the same life? Maybe. maybe not.

                I have no idea how well the off-brand will compare to the RIDGID batteries. I would look to getting RIDGID, even with a premium, providing they can be registered for LSA (batteries on their own do not qualify for LSA). I recently bought a 'kit' with 2 batteries and a charger (6 Ah + 3 Ah) for $125, which I thought was a great deal, and are now registered for LSA. It is only 9 Ah vs your same 12 Ah for 3 batteries for the same cost. I think I got the better deal with having OEM batteries and the LSA.

                Keep your eyes open, I suspect the current 2 X 3 Ah battery 'kit' will be on sale for a lot less than the current $169 soon.

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