No announcement yet.

18v circular saw base plate

  • Filter
  • Time
  • Show
Clear All
new posts

  • 18v circular saw base plate

    Hi all, new to the forum, have been using ridgid power tools for about 3 years.

    Anyway, been using my 18v circular saw (R8653B) with an edge guide to cut sheet goods with no issues, i've always used the left (wide) side of the base plate, which is 4 15/16" from the blade. 2 weeks ago I had to use the right (narrow) side of the base plate and I noticed that the right side of the base plate is not straight, it bows out, and can't be used with a edge guide.

    Anyway, I called ridgid thinking that my base plate was defective, and they sent me a new one under the LSA. Well it got delivered yesterday, and guess what, new one has the same issue.

    Are these base plates all defective?

  • #2
    First I can recall this being brought up on the Forum.

    How far out is it, can you post us a photo with a straight edge along side showing how far out it is?

    Is it something maybe you could correct. I don't know what material the base plate is on this saw.
    Steel, aluminum, something else maybe?
    "It's a table saw, do you know where your fingers are?" Bob D. 2006



    • #3
      Here it is, this is the new one, original is exactly the same. I think it's magnesium


      • #4
        I see it. There's not much to the base plate on that side of the blade is there. I can see how it could be easily deformed. Could even happen during assembly of the tool in which case as you asked there are probably other saws out there with this same problem. It might not be every saw, just the ones coming down a particular line assuming there is more than one machine in the line at that point in the assembly process performing that operation which causes the base to be distorted during assembly. Or it's the particular mold when they cast the base plate which again unless every base plate is formed by the same machine that bad ones may be traceable back to a particular machine. But will they go a look for that maybe not.

        I wonder what's the best course to fix it. If you could create a sled with a refence edge to the blade and the uneven (narrow) side would hang over on the
        other edge slightly you could maybe sand it parallel to the blade.
        "It's a table saw, do you know where your fingers are?" Bob D. 2006



        • #5
          My 8653B has the same problem. I have not even used it yet! It doesn't appear to be deformed -- just a badly stamped metal piece.
          Maybe it's me, but the right side does not appear to be machined as smoothly as the left side. A machinist should be able to grind it parallel to the left side -- it might get into the inch graduations on the right side, but I don't use those anyway.
          Guess I'll go on the Home Depot site and enter this info in a review. Rigid need to address this problem.


          • #6
            I see there's an Octane version of this saw (R8654B). Has anyone noticed if it has the same problem? If it doesn't, maybe the base would also fit the R8653B.


            • #7
              Marty how long ago did you buy your saw, the first one that is. I wonder how far back in time this problem originated. Maybe it's only recent versions of the saw.
              "It's a table saw, do you know where your fingers are?" Bob D. 2006




              • #8
                My 18-V Ridgid is model 8452, perhaps the first iteration, which I believe I bought new as part of a combo back in 2005. The base is about a 64th of an inch off, front to back alignment with the blade. The base on that is a bit more than an 1/8-inch thick and has 4-5/16 on the left side of blade and a full inch-plus on the right side... guess Ridgid has cheapened the saw quit a bit since then.



                • #9
                  So I just went out to the shop and checked my saw and it has the same problem. I've had it a few years,
                  I think I got it when they first came out with the 7-1/4" saw. It's an R8653, no A or B after the model number.

                  I took a 12 inch rule and positioned it up against the blade making sure it did not contact any of the teeth.
                  Using the rule allowed me to extend the plane of the blade to the front and rear of the base plate so I could
                  measure across the full length of the base plate.

                  Then I took my small square (didn't have a micrometer handy) and resting the body against the edge of the
                  base plate I slid the blade to where it touched the edge of the base plate at the back of the saw. Now sliding
                  the square along the edge of the base plate I took a couple photos to show how far out of parallel the edge
                  of the base plate and the blade are.

                  Bottom line is don't depend on using the edge of the base plate to make a rip cut, even if using a shop-made
                  guide track. The blade will be out by a degree or two, maybe more, and will drag the back of the blade across
                  the edge of your workpiece and rip it up. You'll blame the blade at first, then you'll figure out it's the saw that's
                  a POC not the blade. I wonder how many projects have been screwed up because of this.

                  I also found as reported earlier in this thread that the edge is not straight but has a bow in it with the widest
                  part near the front to rear midpoint of the base plate.

                  Here's a few photos to show what I found. I should check for parallel to the other side of the base plate but I haven't yet.

                  Marty maybe while you have the replacement base plate you could measure its width in 3 or 4 spots from front to back.
                  I will do the same with my saw and also check the other side of the blade for parallel.

                  Click image for larger version  Name:	 Views:	0 Size:	118.4 KB ID:	740675

                  Click image for larger version  Name:	 Views:	0 Size:	142.1 KB ID:	740673

                  Click image for larger version  Name:	 Views:	0 Size:	122.4 KB ID:	740677

                  Click image for larger version  Name:	 Views:	0 Size:	130.1 KB ID:	740674

                  Click image for larger version  Name:	 Views:	0 Size:	131.1 KB ID:	740676
                  Attached Files
                  Last edited by Bob D.; 08-13-2019, 03:13 PM.
                  "It's a table saw, do you know where your fingers are?" Bob D. 2006




                  • #10
                    I have the Ridgid model R845 18v saw the very first generation 2005.
                    It's a 6 1/2" blade with the motor on the right making this a left handed saw...yippee I'm left handed.

                    The base plate is aluminum [I think], about 9/64" thick just a bit more than 1/8".
                    The short side from the blade is about 9/16" the wide side from the blade is about 2 15/16" wide
                    The opening for the blade is about 1 3/4" The overall width of the base plate is about 5 1/4"

                    Measuring the diagonals it's about 12 3/4" both ways so the base is square.

                    There is no flex in the base what so ever.

                    Perhaps the screws securing the base plate can be loosened and has some wiggle room
                    to allow you to square up the plate to the blade?

                    Finally, have you replaced the blade with a fresh/new one and rechecked you measurements?
                    Is it possible the blade may not be true causing the error?

                    Cactus Man
                    Last edited by cactusman; 08-13-2019, 04:36 PM.


                    • #11
                      Here' some more measurements with a caliper.

                      So the wide side is fairly parallel to the blade, about .3 mm out (101.75 - 101.45).

                      But the other side is off by about 1.3 mm (34.30 - 33.00).

                      That's the width of the blade so it's significant I think.
                      Last edited by Bob D.; 08-13-2019, 04:16 PM.
                      "It's a table saw, do you know where your fingers are?" Bob D. 2006




                      • #12
                        Sorry for the late reply. I bought this saw black friday 2016, but I haven't used it much until about a month ago when I had to break down a large amount of plywood. Using an edge guide with the left side it worked great, but not with the original blade, the original blade was cupped. Swapped it out for a diablo 40 tooth and got perfect cuts.
                        anyway, when I got to the end of the sheet and didn't have the 5 inches of space needed to use the left side, I tried using the right side. That is when I noticed the issue
                        I called ridgid and they sent me the new base plate with the same issue.
                        It looks to me like the design or manufacture was defective. These are stamped magesium, so the dies might have been bad. All of the, not just a few. I'm thinking of calling ridgid back and having them remedy this somehow, inless they are on these boards and seeing this.
                        maybe they can send everyone with this issue redesigned base plates or do a recall.
                        For now, I have this extra base plate, I might try to see if I can grind it down.


                        • #13
                          Well it seems to me you've got to get it parallel to the blade, you just can't grind it so the edge is straight. That's what I was trying to show in the photos I posted. Overtightening can cause a blade to become distorted. Any debris on the arbor flange could also cause a problem.
                          "It's a table saw, do you know where your fingers are?" Bob D. 2006




                          • #14
                            Yes, grinding it parallel to the blade