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Why does my drill stop when I power an ice auger?

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  • Why does my drill stop when I power an ice auger?

    I have a Gen 5 R86116 drill. It's supposed have over 700 pounds of torque and be fully adequate to power a six-inch ice auger. I am on my second of these drills, having returned the first for the problem I now describe. My issue is that they keep stopping when I'm running the auger. The battery is still connected. I have the drill function selected. I am on 1 – low speed, hi torque. and I have plenty of battery juice. But the thing just stops. If I disconnect and reconnect the battery it will start back up. Or if I switch to reverse and then back to forward, it will start again. I have the clutch all the way up to 100, and have played with between 80 and 100. Each time I restart the drill it will drill for a few seconds and stop again. Sometimes it will drill a whole hole. sometimes I will have to restart it six times to get through 6 inches of ice.

    Does anyone know what I'm dealing with here? my understanding is that this is most indicative of a self protection feature when the drill is overheating. I had the same problem with two drills, same model and everything. Yet last winter, with the last struggle, this problem was much less prevalent. I was consistently drilling 40 or 50 holes through 18 inches of ice without much trouble- only restarting the drill occasionally. However, I don't have this trouble with any other daily function. But I'm also not a carpenter, and I don't push the drill to anything like its intended capacity for other uses. also, many other ice fishermen seem to be using this drill the same way- some even running 8 inch augers. however, now that I'm having the same problem with the second drill, it makes me wonder if I really just got a second dud, or if there's something that I'm not getting.

    Advice?

  • #2
    It's 700 inch pounds. You need FOOT pounds to drill a 6" x 6" hole in ice. The drill is stopping because you are pulling too many amps out of the battery and it is stopping to prevent tool and battery damage. The right tool for the right job... and you don't have it!
    ~~

    ... it was plumbed by Ray Charles and his helper Stevie Wonder

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    • #3
      Before he passed away my FIL was a huge ice fisherman. He used an 18V DeWalt drill for drilling his holes and to the best of my knowledge he never had the issue you're describing. He basically was a pan fisherman so I doubt if he was drilling 8" holes but he did have a 6" auger. He bought that DeWalt drill because that's what all his ice fishing buddies had and were using so maybe the problem you have could be solved by changing drill manufacturers.
      I'VE DECIDED I'M NOT OLD, I'M 45 -- PLUS SHIPPING AND HANDLING.

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      • #4
        A cordless chainsaw would be my choice. Of course RIDGID doesn't make such tools so you'll have to go to Ryobi or Milwaukee if you want to reward TTI for not having a RIDGID chainsaw. Or buy from another manufacturer like EGO. Even Stihl has a battery chainsaw now. If they can see the handwriting on the wall why can't TTI? But then again it maybe all Home Depots fault, since they determine what RIDGID cordless tools are brought out. I say that because AEG, TTI's global brand, does have an 18v chainsaw. If you got your hands on one of those you could use your RIDGID batteries and be good to go and all your ice fishing buddies would be jealous. :-)

        https://www.ebay.com/c/23015260527

        Or this, a winner every time.



        Last edited by Bob D.; 12-22-2019, 12:20 PM.
        "It's a table saw, do you know where your fingers are?" Bob D. 2006

        https://www.youtube.com/user/PowerToolInstitute

        https://www.youtube.com/channel/UC1p...qcZKHyrqKhikFA

        ----

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        • #5
          https://attractivefishing.com/best-drill-for-ice-auger/ According to this article Ridgid is number 1 for spinning an ice auger.

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          • #6
            Ridgid tools have two types of trips. Battery trip and tool trip. You generally experience a tool trip (that resets without pulling the battery) when you gradually apply throttle against a heavy load. A battery trip is triggered by the circuit breaker in the battery (i2t curve breaker) and usually encountered under full throttle. You're experiencing a battery trip. Which model battery are you using? Even though it's not supposed to be different, in the real world, different model batteries behave differently in regards to this.

            I do not know how Ridgid comes up with the specs. There are two versions of R86116. One version is rated 750 in-lbs and 500RPM but it absolutely is not does not deliver 750 in-lbs @ 500RPM as that would take 6 horsepowers to do so. If you were to try to start up against a full load under no speed, these things tend to trip too.
            The problem: There's no clear definition of how they rate the torque.

            You could try the 450 RPM Megamax (Internet #307713471) which is 450 RPM Octane with a 9Ah battery and hope that it works out. Without a plot that you can use to work with the auger's manufacturer, it's trial and error. You realistically won't get the full horsepower without a perfect match. If the geared too short, you're rev limited and you just won't reach the highest possible horsepower delivery whereas if you're too tall, you overload the motor and trip or burnout. The R86116 is realistically geared too tall for the amount of whatever actual horsepower the motor can deliver to turn the auger near 500RPM

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