No announcement yet.

TS2400 problems

  • Filter
  • Time
  • Show
Clear All
new posts

  • TS2400 problems

    I have a TS2400 contractor saw that I bought recently. This is my first table saw, and I'm writing to ask people for their opinions on things I'm having trouble with. I want to make sure that it's the saw and not me, in case I decide to return it.

    Below is a list of the problems I'm having. Please feel free to comment on them.

    1. Squareness of rip fence-
    I have followed the instructions about how to square the rip fence, but depending on how I clamp it down, it may or may not be parallel to the blade. Even when I push the fence against the front rail, I may not get the fence square. By not square, I mean a cut can be off by .05" over a 2 foot length. If I line up the fence to one of the grooves I can see if it clamps squarely. If I try to make a cut in wood, I almost always end up with non-square pieces, no matter how I adjust and clamp down the fence.

    2. fence rails not tight-
    The manual describes how to adjust the height of the rails so that the fence rides above the table surface by a distance equal to 8 pieces of paper. On my table, the rear rail cannot be tightened enough so that it stops moving. Therefore, the fence is always in contact with the table surface. I am worried that over time this will scratch the aluminum plate. Also, because the rail is wobbly, I find that I can never guarantee that the fence is perpendicular to the table (by that, I mean the edge of my cuts may or may not be square depending on how far away from the blade I moved the fence). I have called customer support and was basically told that there's not much to do about it. They suggested I bring the saw to a repair center, which I did. They were unable to fix the problem either. It's interesting that I can't adjust the saw using the company's own directions.

    3. Stops on the blade tilt are not "hard" at 0 and 45 degrees-
    Depending on how much I adjust the knob, I can be off on the angle of my cuts by a couple of degrees. The angle gauge isn't fine enough to rely on for a visual confirmation of the blade tilt. If I set the blade perpendicular to the table, and set the angle gauge to "0," then move the angle and move it back until the gauge reads "0" again, my cut will not be square.

    That's it for now. Feel free to comment on these items. Thanks.

  • #2
    I also bought this saw around Christmas time. Not sure about your specific problems but I must say that I was surprised at the amount of set-up that the saw required "out of the box" took me at least half a day to set it up and almost everything required's important to do things in the order listed in the manual also...I was surprised that the saw in Workbench (April 2004) required no set up (it earned Editor's Choice!) That being said, once set up, I have been pleased with the results, especially with the aftermarket blades...also my first saw...good luck


    • #3
      Just to clarify for those who might not know the difference, the 2400 is considered a "jobsite" saw as opposed to a contractor saw. The 2400 was selected "Editors Choice" by Workbench for jobsite saws. Ridgid offers the 3650 in the contractor saw class, which typically have larger cast iron tables, induction motors with belt drive, and are not as portable...they weigh in the 250-300# range.

      Sorry I can't offer advice on your questions...


      • #4
        I haven't had a problem with rails out of square. Not enough to be a problem anyway.

        My rails are plenty tight.

        My stops are pretty accurate, but you should never trust the stops when accuracy is important. Most of the time, very close to 90 or very close to 45 is good enough for jobsite work. If you need more accuracy you should always check with a square. I would say the same for a saw that costs 4 times as much.

        I hope you can make adjustments to your satisfaction. I think the saw is excellent.


        • #5
          Sorry to hear of your problems with the TS2400. I purchased this saw a couple of days ago and was impressed how little fine-tuning was required "out of the box". My rip fence was dead on parallel to the blade and the clearance from fence to table was fine. I wonder if you might have a defective rip fence?

          My front and rear rails are also a little loose (can be moved slightly up and down), but I'm not sure this has a negative effect on anything. BTW, I called tech support yesterday and they said this was normal.

          This is also my first table saw (actually second; I returned a DeWalt 744 that I had less than a week) and I am very happy with it. It is much more rugged than the DeWalt and has many innovative features not found on the DeWalt. My only complaint is the poorly positioned on/off switch...I am always "searching" for it.

          I think if I were you I'd return the saw and get another one.

          Good luck and let us know what happens.


          • #6
            Re: Loose front and rear rails. After playing around with my TS2400 this morning, I realized that there must be some looseness in the front and rear rails to enable the right entension table to extend. Make sense?