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  • Jointer blade adjustment

    Has anyone changed the blades on the Jointer before? I just did due to a chip in the blade (an overlooked nail...argggg). Anyway, I just changed the blades and used a metal ruler to line up, however, I am still getting an ever so slight snipe on the end of the board when I pass it through. I saw one of those Jointer aids in the Griz magazine, however, it is $60. Any other thoughts about lining these up perfect?

    Thanx....
    If it ain\'t broke, tell the wife it is so that you can get more TOOLS!!

  • #2
    Look at Woodcraft or other dealers for that matter. I bought a jointer jig for around $30-40---they come in either metal or plastic---I got the latter, and have a magnetic base. I tried the metal straight edge, but the biggest problem was holding the knife down and making it even across the width----this jig does that---holds the knife in place while you tighten the nuts. Just follow the directions as to finding top dead center of the knife rotation and the rest is easy.
    Dave

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    • #3
      If by snipe you mean the jointer takes a deeper cut on the last couple of inches of the board basically the distance between the infeed table and TDC of the knives then all you need to do is slightly raise the outfeed table. I assume you set all the knives to the same height at TDC (Top Dead Centre)

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      • #4
        This is a tricky subject, and lengthy.

        I use to use a metal straight edge, and a seperate magnet to set the blades. After fighting for hours several times, I broke down and bought the Shop Fox Jointer Pal from Woodcraft, metel version. Never set a blade without it again. Key thing now becomes aligning the blades sideways. I use a metal straight edge by adjusting the fence and laying the SE against the fence and pushing the blade against the SE. Let the Jig hold the knifes and crank on the jack screws.

        When you have removed the blades, run the infeed table up all the way. Lay a metal straight edge accross the infeed and outfeed tables. Adjust the infeed table to obtain a perfectly flat plane from start of infeed, to end of outfeed table. If you are getting snipe, it could be that the outfeed table end is too high. This is the way to check it.

        Several posts have discussed adjustments for this, none with conclusion. I have found none personally. The manual does not cover this adjustment. Mine is ever slightly that the outfeed table dips down and have to use a heavy hand at the end of the board on the infeed side. If yours is caused by a high outfeed table end, there is little hope other than cutting stock long and cutting off the snipe. But will still end in a unproperly jointed edge.

        Only suggetion I can offer here then is to return it and try another jointer that is more precissionly machined.
        John E. Adams<br /><a href=\"http://www.woodys-workshop.com\" target=\"_blank\">www.woodys-workshop.com</a>

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        • #5
          i had a hell of a time getting my jointer lined up right. even went out and bought one of those magnetic blade jigs. had a friend who is much better with machinery than i am come over and take a look at it....he solved my problem (which was the same as yours) he took a straight edge and followed the directions in the manual, with one exception. he snugged up the bolts which hold the blade in place and then fine tuned them. works great to this day!
          \"A SHIP OF WAR IS THE BEST AMBASSADOR\"<br /><br />OLIVER CROMWELL

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          • #6
            On both my 4" and 6" jointers, i use a piece of double strength glass ( 3" wide and 4" wide )with 3 rare earth magnets. These magnets are some of the strongest you will find, and they hold the knives up in position and level so i can snug up the bolts. I have also used a piece of 1/4" lexan to do the same job leaving the knives slightly high, then pushing them into position after the bolts are snug. The lexan will not mess up the knife edges.Then i take the glass to double check their position. good luck

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