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  • BS14002 cutting alignment problem

    I just got my new bandsaw put together and all adjustments made per instructions. It runs fine, no vibration or anything of that sort. But I can't get it to cut parallel (90 Deg.)to the miter gage slot. It's cutting to the left @ about 20 Deg.from the slot. There does'nt seem to be any way to adjust the table and I've played with all the adjustments on blade guides and thrust bearings.Nothing changes.Help anyone?
    PS: It has a 3/8" blade from factory.

  • #2
    Papa,

    I got mine about 4 months ago, and had the same problem, fiddled and played and adjusted and could not get rid of the drift. I bought cool blocks etc and mine ran about 9 degrees out.

    After numerous posts here, I finally bought an Olsen blade and took about 2 minutes to put it on. Didn't even set up the bearings and blocks, It was great, only about 1 deg out. Even better after set up correctly. So needless to say, the stock POS blade that came with the saw is out in the woods behind my shop somewhere!!!!

    A little drift is normal with all bandsaws and blades, but I think the stock blade is just REALLY poor. Go somewhere and buy a decent quality blade (usually around $12 ) and see if that helps.

    John
    Some people\'s lack of a sense of humor ruins life for the rest of us.

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    • #3
      I second that. My drift went from about what you describe to almost zero when I put a timberwolf blade on. If you read the forums on www.woodnet.net you'll see lots of similar experiences. The stock blades are generally worthless.

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      • #4
        Let me echo what Ethcad said. My saw was running approximately 5-6 degrees out with the stock RIDGID blade. When I switched to the Timberwolf blades the deflection went to zero.

        I would recommend that anyone throw away the blade that comes with the saw immediately upon opening the box and proceed with setup using only a good quality blade like the Timberwolf ones. That advice would have saved me a lot of time.

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        • #5
          Blade drift on the band saw is a fact of life, due to the flex of the blade and tooth pattern. It may be accessive if you dont correctly set the blade guides top and bottom and the thrust bearings. Take a look a the Band Saw Book by Mark Duginski. The chapter on straight cuts gives a good description of blade driff and how to deal with it. The amount of drift differs from one blade to another but stays the same for each blade. You need to adjust your feed to it. The book is much better at explaining this.

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          • #6
            Thanks a lot guys for your help. I just now remembered to check this forum to see if anyone had ideas. Since I posted my question, I have dinked around with the saw somemore and found that when I raise the upper guide assembly (or lower it) the guide blocks alignment with the blade changes. I figure that this problem is the misalignment of the casting that holds the round steel post guide(upper arm frame).I thought maybe I could shim where the upper frame bolts to the lower frame to get the guide post parallel with the blade.? I don't see any other way to adjust it. At the lowest setting with proper clearance, it ends up pushing the blade to the left about 3/16" @ the upper setting.
            Do ballbearing guides work better than the blocks? Also, I have ordered a new good quality blade, guessing that the OEM is probably junk ( or I was at least hoping that was the case). Thanks again for your help.
            Regards,papa

            Comment


            • #7
              Thanks a lot guys for your help. I just now remembered to check this forum to see if anyone had ideas. Since I posted my question, I have dinked around with the saw somemore and found that when I raise the upper guide assembly (or lower it) the guide blocks alignment with the blade changes. I figure that this problem is the misalignment of the casting that holds the round steel post guide(upper arm frame).I thought maybe I could shim where the upper frame bolts to the lower frame to get the guide post parallel with the blade.? I don't see any other way to adjust it. At the lowest setting with proper clearance, it ends up pushing the blade to the left about 3/16" @ the upper setting.
              Do ballbearing guides work better than the blocks? Also, I have ordered a new good quality blade, guessing that the OEM is probably junk ( or I was at least hoping that was the case). Thanks again for your help.
              Regards,papa

              Comment


              • #8
                I bought the bs1400 and have not had the time to tune it up. The one item I cut suffered considerable drift. I had to rip some brickmold down to 1 5/8 and was too lazy to uncover the 3612. I bought two Ridgid blades as spares and wonder if they are the same quality or lack-there-of as the original referred to above? If that is the general experience I will probably take them back.

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                • #9
                  I think I would consider taking the blades back. I have two RIDGID blades, the one that came with the saw and another just like it I bought. I keep both blades for situations where I don't want to ruin my good Timberwolf blades. RIDGID's blades are good for situations like cutting treated wood or places where accuracy isn't the biggest of concerns. These blades have served me well in outdoor projects where the woods may ruin the good blades.

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                  • #10
                    Just got the WWJ Ezine. Had section on this subject. Check it out Here.
                    John E. Adams<br /><a href=\"http://www.woodys-workshop.com\" target=\"_blank\">www.woodys-workshop.com</a>

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