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How much of a pain to install Link belt On jointer after assembled

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  • How much of a pain to install Link belt On jointer after assembled

    Hi all and even you Lorax

    Okay how much of a pain is it to install link belt on the 6010 jointer after it is put together?

    I can get link belt for $5.35 a ft from work as compared to $6.99 at other stores.

    So is it a bear?

    Do I need to take it apart and turn it over?

    Also I seem to be getting some slight marks in the wood like if I press down a little harder it leaves a slight dimple.

    Yes I know but my other jointer was a craftsman 4 and 1/4 of many years ago.

    Also when I did the setup the knifes would lift my straightedge and move it to the infeed side.

    So should I just raise the outside so it will not do this?

    All blades moved it the same distance about an 1/8 " back towards the infeed.

    Which I think I read somewhere is okay as long as they all do the same.

    Or did I have to much Crown and coke that day

    Another thing let me explain the name reef12

    Had 2 reef Aquariums for 12years

    I bet you all thought Pot
    Not responsible for speeling mistakes

  • #2
    I don't have a 610 but if you can see the belt from the top where it attaches to the head pulley, perhaps you could tie-wrap the link belt to the old belt, cut the old belt and use it to pull the link belt around the motor pulley and back to the top where you could possibly join the link belt together. Might work

    I put this together a while ago, I describes how I setup my jointer knives. If you read it the end addresses your question on the height of the knives. I figured I may as well post the entire process for the benefit of others....

    Have a look at the picture. Unplug the machine. First find the high point in the rotation of you knives. You can do this by setting the outfeed table just slightly lower (0.001" will do) than the blades. Put a flat (just jointed) stick ( 1" wide or so) in the same position as the jointer pal arm that is against the fence (not using the jointer pal at this point. Now rotate the cutter head by hand and watch the stick move with the blade (if it moves more than an inch back an forth raise the outfeed table a bit. Now rotate the cutter head backward until the stick stops moving (knife no longer touching it) and note the position of the front edge of the blade, now rotate the cutter head forward until the stick stops moving again and note the position of the front edge of the blade again. The point half way in-between the two point you just noted is the high point of the cutting arc. Mark this point on your fence. If you want to verify the point you can raise the outfeed table more and more until the wood barely moves as you rock the cutter head and the front edge of the knife should still be at the mark you made on the fence. Now replace all the knives and just snug up the screws that hold the knives, make sure you set the jack screws so they do not touch the blade.
    In the picture you see a scribed line on the jointer pal (you should have one on yours as well) this indicates the center of the magnet and the point where it will hold the knives as you set them in your machine. Set the scribed line on the jointer pal to line up exactly with the line on your fence.
    Rotate the cutter head so the first knife is held by the magnet, if the blade does not come up to meet both magnets loosen the blade screws a bit so the blade can move. Now snug each blade holding screw a bit at a time, do not fully tighten each screw one at a time, it is best to gradually tighten all the screw a bit, make three passes on all the screws to go from loose to tight. This prevent the blade wedge from skewing the knife. Once the screws are tight check that the blade is touching both arms of the jointer pal. Do the other two blades in the same manner. You do not need to worry about the jack screws when you use the jointer pal.
    Joint a test piece. If you find that you feel a bit of a bump just as the stock gets to the outfeed table edge you did not set the blades exactly at the high point which is not a problem because all the blades are set exactly to this same height. Just lower the outfeed table a hair. Conversely if you find that the last bit of the jointed edge has more material removed the outfeed table is too low.
    To set my outfeed table height I usually take a jointed straight piece of would and lay it on the outfeed table and just over the knives. now I rotate the head and listen to the knives, if you can hear the knife just brush the wood the height is correct, if you cant hear the knives lower the table, if you can hear the knives and see or feel the wood move the table needs to be raised.
    If you still have questions just ask..


    • #3
      I installed a link belt on my jointer 6 mos to a year after I got it. It's probably a 20-30 minute doable task that'll include a few grunts and mutterances here and there depending on how hard it is to reach the 4 bolts that hold the motor. Mine was in an enclosed base that required that I remove a panel held in place by about 10 screws and the motor bolts require 2 hands to tighten...some of which were a bit difficult to reach. 5 out of 10, 10 being most difficult.


      • #4

        Yon neglected to mention if your jointer runs any smoother, was it a worthwhile upgrade?



        • #5
          Thanks Wbrooks for the pointers a real good read saved to notepad so no back and forth on that.

          Is it a Ridgid jointer?

          And did it clear the belt guard?

          Well it was a pain to install it when it was nothing on it.


          I will get it done but did notice that the link belt will be real close to the belt guard as they have the link connector that stands up and proud of the belt.
          I wonder if it will hit it as it goes around and did get 8 ft from work free

          Got to love that and profile A 1/2" wide
          Not responsible for speeling mistakes