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  • jointer problems

    i have a delta x5jointer and i am having a terrible time setting the table and blades. the table is now parrell, but i am still having trouble with snipe and a wavy edge from the jointer. i feel that the blades are not the same height as each other and the outfeed table. Has anyone used the knife setting jig from delta 37-157? or do you use any other thing to set the knives. any help would be very helpful. i think i have atleast 10 hours into this project and there doesn't seem to be any light at the end of the tunnel.

  • #2
    The following is based on using a jointer pal but could be adapted to using a straight edge just with far greater frustration

    Have a look at the picture. Unplug the machine. First find the high point in the rotation of you knives. You can do this by setting the outfeed table just slightly lower (0.001" will do) than the blades. Put a flat (just jointed) stick ( 1" wide or so) in the same position as the jointer pal arm that is against the fence (not using the jointer pal at this point. Now rotate the cutter head by hand and watch the stick move with the blade (if it moves more than an inch back an forth raise the outfeed table a bit. Now rotate the cutter head backward until the stick stops moving (knife no longer touching it) and not the position of the front edge of the blade, now rotate the cutter head forward until the stick stops moving again and note the position of the front edge of the blade again. The point half way in-between the two point you just noted is the high point of the cutting arc. Mark this point on your fence. If you want to verify the point you can raise the outfeed table more and more until the wood barely moves as you rock the cutter head and the front edge of the knife should still be at the mark you made on the fence. Now replace all the knives and just snug up the screws that hold the knives, make sure you set the jack screws so they do not touch the blade.
    In the picture you see a scribed line on the jointer pal (you should have one on yours as well) this indicates the center of the magnet and the point where it will hold the knives as you set them in your machine. Set the scribed line on the jointer pal to line up exactly with the line on your fence.
    Rotate the cutter head so the first knife is held by the magnet, if the blade does not come up to meet both magnets loosen the blade screws a bit so the blade can move. Now snug each blade holding screw a bit at a time, do not fully tighten each screw one at a time, it is best to gradually tighten all the screw a bit, make three passes on all the screws to go from loose to tight. This prevent the blade wedge from skewing the knife. Once the screws are tight check that the blade is touching both arms of the jointer pal. Do the other two blades in the same manner. You do not need to worry about the jack screws when you use the jointer pal.
    Joint a test piece. If you find that you feel a bit of a bump just as the stock gets to the outfeed table edge you did not set the blades exactly at the high point which is not a problem because all the blades are set exactly to this same height. Just lower the outfeed table a hair. Conversely if you find that the last bit of the jointed edge has more material removed the outfeed table is too low.
    To set my outfeed table height I usually take a jointed straight piece of would and lay it on the outfeed table and just over the knives. now I rotate the head and listen to the knives, if you can hear the knife just brush the wood the height is correct, if you cant hear the knives lower the table, if you can hear the knives and see or feel the wood move the table needs to be raised.
    If you still have questions just ask..

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    • #3
      I think i will be ordering a jointer pal. thanks for the info Brooks. I think that the jointer is one of the tougher tools i have ever had to try and adjust. I didn't have a lick of problem with the 3650 or any other tools that require setup. again, thanks.

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