Announcement Announcement Module
Collapse
No announcement yet.
BS 1402 Link Belt Useage Page Title Module
Move Remove Collapse
X
Conversation Detail Module
Collapse
  • Filter
  • Time
  • Show
Clear All
new posts

  • BS 1402 Link Belt Useage

    Has anyone really used a link belt on this bandsaw and REALLY, how much vibratrion is noticeable after installing it? Will the belt work on the stock pulleys? What size belt is needed?

  • #2
    Link belts have been proven to reduce vibrations. The amount of the reduction will depend on how well tuned the rest of the BS is. Yes, link belts will work on the OEM pulleys that come with the BS1400. I don't know exactly what length belt you'll need but it's easy enough to measure the one that you currently have on your BS1400.
    Teach your kids about taxes..........eat 30 percent of their ice cream.

    Comment


    • #3
      Hopefully, some BS1402 users can post with some actual results. I just want to know what to expect before spending any more money. I guess what I have heard or read, I was expecting a total vibration free machine from all the touting of the link belt. So, what you are saying, if the V belt is fine and the vibration is someplace else, a link belt will be no better than the V belt.
      Right now, they is slight vibration
      Last edited by Ronald; 11-02-2006, 11:42 AM.

      Comment


      • #4
        I have the BS with the stock belt. I have no vibration problem.
        I setup and tuned the saw the way the ridgid manual describes how to do it.
        If you have a vibration problem now I don't see how a link belt will eliminate it, the source of your vibration is likely elsewhere.
        www.TheWoodCellar.com

        Comment


        • #5
          I'd say the Vibration PROBLEM Mostly stems from the CRAPPY china wheels used on the bandsaw mine are so far outta whack and balance it's truely PITIFUL ! That fight with Ridgid is about to begin SOON, i've been busy setting up other machines and got disgusted with the bandsaw, I added a link belt $25.00 Urethane tires another $25.00 bucks,3/4 Baltic Birch plywood to the base under the saw and on top of the leg braces $20.00 bucks for the piece of plywood PLUS MY time,$$$$?,It STILL has VIBRATION.Some people have drilled holes or divits to balance the already "computer balanced wheels" ( what a CROCK!) I picked up stick-on auto wheel weights but have not had the time to mess around rebalencing them yet Lowes has the Delta 14" Bandsaw for a new Lower price of $379.00, it includes the urethane tires, up front under table mounted knobs for easy reach and adjustments,and the motor is placed so you CAN open the lower guard door!(DUH WTF was Ridgid thinking!?) The Delta has a dust collection port built into the cast iron lower section, 4" Not 2 1/2" reduced to a sliver,The Delta also incluces a Metal open slotted rear blade guard, makes blade changing easier. I may just go purchase that one and DUMP the ridgid saw once I get them to FIX it Right. (My conscious just could'nt let me sell it to someone the way it is.) My new heater was more important to get in as were getting colder here in Chicago. Maybe a call to the attorney generals office in the state were Ridgid's headquarters is located is in order, and that will just bypass all the bullcrap. Good Luck with yours.

          Comment


          • #6
            Originally posted by Rafael View Post
            I have the BS with the stock belt. I have no vibration problem.
            I setup and tuned the saw the way the ridgid manual describes how to do it.
            If you have a vibration problem now I don't see how a link belt will eliminate it, the source of your vibration is likely elsewhere.
            Are you saying your saw has no vibration at all? How tight do you tighten the motor mounts to keep the motor from moving from moving? Ron

            Comment


            • #7
              Allen, I just said "what a crock" about the wheels being in balance, everyone knows there in it for the money,Yes, I have taken off the blade and run it, it runs alot smoother without the wheels spinning, Exceptable even, I have done all those things, I think most who have the vibration problems have all narrowed it down to whatever is causing it,(were not idiots) and for the most part from my own experience and have read here, and on other woodworking forums it is the out of balance wheels that are SUPPOSEDLY computer balanced at the factory,AGAIN>( WHAT A CROCK) I have narrowed mine down to what I believe is the major problem, the upper wheel is the worst, It DROPS almost instantaniously to the heavy side when freely spun by hand always at the same spot.Out of round too. Magetic base and dial indicator testify to that. It is an inexpensive no frills bandsaw that one should be able to add a few things and end up with a decent bandsaw, the QC is gonna KILL it tho,IMHO. Sure you can look for and REBUILD an old saw, most choose to avoid that much work , and choose an entry level bandsaw like the Ridgid, that they expect with a GOOD "tune-up" should be pretty good , and a decent value. Now I know what your gonna say next, you have put work into it , that much we know.
              We did'nt want to though. You state, when you start looking for a bandsaw, hopefully reading here and other places you can make yourself an informed decision. Myself I took a gamble, and am suffering for it, but it WILL be FIXED . Even if I keep or sell it, if I do sell it I would not sell it as is, tools loose enough value, it is under warrenty and will be fixed . I have morals and ethics.Remind me not to buy anything used from you ok? I'm almost there on having a decent entry level saw, IF Ridgid does there part and sends me a set of Balanced(as they should be.) wheels. I see NO reason to have to lug it over to some service center an hour and a 1/2's drive away to do what I have already done, Diagnose the cause and PROBLEM. Maybe they (Ridgid) will realize that a GOOD reputation and QUALITY is what sells tools, without that even the big box stores cant sell em. They should realize that this forum and others are a CHEAP form of advertising for them ,and others read this and decide to stear clear, at the time just recently the Delta was $399.99 now at $379.00 it's a much better Value than the Ridgid Bandsaw.
              My original post here was in responce to Rons question.

              Comment


              • #8
                OK, I see it is time to put someone on ignore, although I have never had to, on a forum before, but this person makes posts to get a responce then completetly deletes them .Like a child playing a game. I don't play games sir, consider yourself ignored . Have a nice life.

                Comment


                • #9
                  Originally posted by Ronald View Post
                  Has anyone really used a link belt on this bandsaw and REALLY, how much vibration is noticeable after installing it? Will the belt work on the stock pulleys? What size belt is needed?
                  Just to get back to the original questions. I switched to a link belt. That greatly decreased the amount of vibration on my saw. Others have posted similar results. There was still some vibration until I added plywood to the base and other additions that you have already done. As BadgerDave stated, the link belt will work with the stock pulleys. You need at least 44" to allow the bottom door to clear the motor. Don't use the same length as the stock belt, you'll have the same problem with the bottom door.

                  I have also have read on this forum (seems like it was posted a couple of years ago), that continued vibration was further reduced or eliminated by replacing the rubber grommet motor mounts.

                  Lastly, the model number is BS14002. I'm sure you know this, but in case you need to talk to some one at Ridgid (or Home Depot) it might help to add the zero.

                  A&P, one of the really great things about Ridgid is the ability to return a product in 90 days. I know that you have invested in improvements, but I'm sure you can use the plywood and link belt at a later time (tires seem to be a loss). I would honestly suggest bringing it back while you can... You're unhappy with it, you have found a replacement you feel is superior and for less money. If you keep the Ridgid, be warned that you may eventually look at replacing the tensioning system. It is a pain to de-tension at the end of the day and I know of two occurrences where the nut/ threaded rod has failed. Sorry for the unsolicited advice.
                  Last edited by cjh20; 11-03-2006, 10:34 PM.

                  Comment


                  • #10
                    Help and advice is always Welcomed, no need to be sorry there cjh
                    Ps, only problem is you have to WAIT 6 weeks to get your Cash back in the form of a check.. I have a little over 60 days left if I decide to get rid of it.
                    Funny they didn't tell me I had 6 weeks to actually pay the cash lol
                    Last edited by American and Proud; 11-03-2006, 10:45 PM.

                    Comment


                    • #11
                      Originally posted by American and Proud View Post
                      Ps, only problem is you have to WAIT 6 weeks to get your Cash back in the form of a check.. I have a little over 60 days left if I decide to get rid of it.
                      Funny they didn't tell me I had 6 weeks to actually pay the cash lol
                      I'm not sure who told you that, but cash purchases under $1,000 generate cash refunds. If a cashier said that, ask for the operations manager at the store. This policy is posted on their web site and should be posted at the returns counter in every Home Depot.

                      Comment


                      • #12
                        Oh really, I will have to check at ours again , most stores wont give you back over $100.00, the 90 warranty I heard on here allows you to return/exchange it for a store credit?

                        Comment


                        • #13
                          Ronald,
                          I tightened the motor mounts per the manual. The BS has no noticable vibration.
                          It passes the nickle test easily.
                          It's all in the setup, go through the ridgid manual and dont skip any steps. If it still vibrates after that then you either did something wrong, have a bad saw, or the stand is not solidly footed on the floor.
                          With a new blade I even get zero to near zero drift. After a little use I do get drift due to the fact I abuse my blades.
                          It's not a bad saw if it's set up correctly, my only complaint is it's underpowered, but every saw in it's class is underpowered.
                          www.TheWoodCellar.com

                          Comment


                          • #14
                            Rafael,

                            Do you think there may be a difference in quality between your gray saw and the newer 14002? It seems like the problems reported in this forum have increased recently.

                            As an aside, do you plan on getting the Wood Cellar up and running again?

                            Comment


                            • #15
                              Originally posted by Rafael View Post
                              Ronald,
                              I tightened the motor mounts per the manual. The BS has no noticable vibration.
                              It passes the nickle test easily.
                              It's all in the setup, go through the ridgid manual and dont skip any steps. If it still vibrates after that then you either did something wrong, have a bad saw, or the stand is not solidly footed on the floor.
                              With a new blade I even get zero to near zero drift. After a little use I do get drift due to the fact I abuse my blades.
                              It's not a bad saw if it's set up correctly, my only complaint is it's underpowered, but every saw in it's class is underpowered.
                              Hello
                              I did tune it according to the manual, three times! Still get vibration. What do yo consider "passing the nickle test"? Does the nickle still stand on starting and stopping? When running, does the nickle move around at all?
                              Is yours the older gray model or the newer 14002? Ron

                              Comment

                              Working...
                              X