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  • Running out of ideas...

    greetings everyone;

    I have a cut I am trying to make that is proving very difficult. I only have one more attempt (after much practice) to get this one "right" and I just think I am missing something here.

    With the tooling I have..../don't have, here it goes..

    A. No Radial arm saw.
    B. Biggest blade is on the TS3650. (10 inch)
    C. Must be square.

    This piece of lumber is 50" long, 10 inches wide and 4 inches thick. I am simply trying to "true up" the end piece on one side with a cross-cut. It began at 52inches and 50 is the target length. Not 49 63/64ths but 50 and as exact as possible.

    I began using a Stanley "sharp tooth" handsaw to get the board to general length and begin practicing. I am now down to 51 inchs and it is still not square. I cannot figure out a way to use the TS3560 at all. I am not where I can say.."hold this for me neighbor please". My Circular saw is a dead issue. I tried that..talking about off square..with a guide.

    This is the cut across the 10 inches..lopping off one more inch. The board itself is not a good guide as the end I have worked on is not true.

    Square means all sides of the cross-cut is square with each other.

    What I really need is a big a$$ed radial arm saw.

    How would you make this cut??

    Jigsaw (Milwaukee) is also a no go..and the Hitach M12V router..well the more you rout..the more you keep taking off.

    I am missing something..please inform me the best way to do this..it does need to be precisie and furnature quality. I could grind and sand on it but with 3 axis that must be square..I am like the barber..."a little hear, a little there" and before I know it, I will be "undercut" on this 300 dollar piece of wood.

    I even priacticed by taking 5 sheets of 3/4 particleboard and gluing it together. Gosh..what am I missing???

    I would certainly appreciate any useable techniques.

    No router table, no radial arm saw, no helpers and terrible with a hand saw..

    I got one more cut to make..it has to be a good one.

    Thanks,

    -WmR
    When in doubt, unplug the saw.

  • #2
    In typing this..I did think of ONE way I could do it...

    If I take some 3/4 ply, cut a 10X4 inch rectangular hole in it with the Jigsaw that the board will fit through, true IT up..and use a router to carve it flat..does this sound like the best solution??

    Good weather todaty..not so certain about this week......

    So sorry I feel so stumped...
    When in doubt, unplug the saw.

    Comment


    • #3
      Originally posted by Directorate View Post
      In typing this..I did think of ONE way I could do it...

      If I take some 3/4 ply, cut a 10X4 inch rectangular hole in it with the Jigsaw that the board will fit through, true IT up..and use a router to carve it flat..does this sound like the best solution??

      Good weather todaty..not so certain about this week......

      So sorry I feel so stumped...

      That's exactly what I was going to suggest. Cut the ply large enough so that you have good support for the router. The big question is how to support the ply to the post? L brackets screwed to the underside of the ply would work (as long as you keep your router bit very shallow to avoid screws), but can you put screw holes in your post? If you had long enough arms on the L brackets, you could clamp them to the post. Hope this helps.

      Comment


      • #4
        Hi Cobra,

        I cut a piece of ply and did a test routing to the particle board 'test piece' and it came out almost good enough for sanding. you are right about attaching the jig..and I do not have either end square so finding an absolute square was difficult. I measured from a line that WAS square further down.

        Now..I was not satisfied with the routing job overall.

        I then took the Stanley "sharp tooth" handsaw and did another test cut with another jig I built to keep the saw "true". This gave the best results..nice and smooth. (I am an old hat with a handsaw..and the Stanley...well I have cut power poles in half with it in 15 mins)

        I am going to apply the guides to the piece of solid and use the handsaw. It is smooth enough for sanding and finishing..certainly..it did great on particle board which is rare to get. (several hundred light strokes though)

        This is going to come up from time to time. I have 15 of these I will do before years end.

        What I REALLY need is a good way to cross-cut accurately..a good tool just for this with material this thick. I am game up to 600 bucks if anyone knows of one. A radial arm saw turning a 12 inch blade would be the ticket.

        I am still very open and "Game" for any other ideas.

        Sidebar...

        BTW, I bought the TS 3650 Ridgid table saw. I found out why people figure the base unit to be slightly "wobbly".

        The Carrage bolts under the heads have the square flange to go through both square holes in the sheet metal. The supplied Carrage bolts do not have a very long square flange and to get this to be secure, you either need to torque them to greater than 60Lb/ft or simply replace them with "better quality' Carrage bolts.

        This forum is a valuable resource and I would not have pondered this had I not read about the "complaints" that came from other posts. I figured it was something in assembly that was not being done properly but those Carrage bolts can withstand 60 to 80 lb/ft and this 'seats' them properly through BOTH sheet steel plates. Hope this helps someone..
        When in doubt, unplug the saw.

        Comment


        • #5
          As you have several more to do, it sounds like it would be worth your while to make a miter box for the stanley, or find a neighbor with a power miter saw.
          Practicing at practical wood working

          Comment


          • #6
            Won't a 12" SCMS do the trick? Check out this review on e-pinions. A little care and I think this'll do the trick. DW708
            Only a surfer knows the feeling. Billabong ca. 1985 or so

            Comment


            • #7
              As an alternative, you could check out your local lumberyard, or even some of your nearby cabinet shops. Most (lumberyards) have a monster 16" or so radial arm saw just for custom cuts like you need.

              The router idea is a great one though.

              Good luck.
              Phil
              Tools Rule

              Comment


              • #8
                Just use a sled and craoss cut it on your Tablesaw. That will get you Squar and most of the way through. Stand it on edge and line up the cut with the blade. Cut across that way. Lay it down,line it up and finish the cut. You are over thinking the process.

                Comment


                • #9
                  Thanks Someguy...this thing is about 110lbs and I quiver at the thought of trying to upright it on the table saw..but it is an idea.

                  So far, the DeWalt saw looks great. I could build a table for it and flush mount the platform making this an easy task.

                  (Now...if only the wind would die down...50mph gusts as we speak..and just got the yard raked and cleaned up)
                  When in doubt, unplug the saw.

                  Comment


                  • #10
                    Update!

                    Well, the old Noggin got in gear finally and I found a nice way to do this..

                    The things you need are:

                    Good heavy duty C clamps (Large)
                    Counterweight (75 to 150 lbs, two bags of sackcrete did the trick)

                    Place the lumber OVER the blade slot in the position you wish to cut.

                    Raise the blade!

                    Turn over, repeat.

                    This will get it down to chiseling and makes for the best solution.

                    (Jeeze...it certainly took a while to figure THIS one out..)
                    When in doubt, unplug the saw.

                    Comment

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