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TS 3650 Blade Guard situation.

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  • TS 3650 Blade Guard situation.

    Hi Fellows,

    When I am ripping some 6 inch piecs from some larger stock of 3/4 inch (be it birch, mdf, etc) once I get to the blade guard separator, I notice that the working stock pulls away from the fence about 3/64ths making the tail of my cuts inaccurate. On larger rips, I can get my hand in there to keep the material against the fence. What I am trying to avoid is "running around to the other side of the saw" in mid cut.

    Does anyone have a handle/board pusher that uses SUCTION cups so I can keep the material firmly against the fence?

    When I am ripping 72X6 inch pieces, I have found NO way to keep the material firm against the fence short of removing the blade guard.

    What I have been doing (and you guys will learn that I have crazy, unorthadox ideas) is to cut minimum depth for a guide and use the JIGSAW and sanding to finish off the cut (because the minimum depth cut is an excellent jigsaw guide). By doing minimum depth cuts, No blade is exposed..little danger of getting whacked with the blade and I can manhandle the board against the fence. I do have a "catcher table" with a roller guide so that I need not worry about board "receiving" duties.

    I tried a push block with sandpaper glued to the bottom. I simply cannot get enough force up against the fence this way (old age) Suction cups would be something that would not let go or slide and perhaps the key..or just keep using the Jigsaw.

    I cannot tolerate cuts that are off a 1/128th, let alone 3/64ths inch.
    When in doubt, unplug the saw.

  • #2
    This is a common problem that crops up, especially with new users of the saw. You need to adjust the splitter. It is either too far to the left (if your fence is on the right) or it is skewed out of line with the blade. It also may not be square to the table (with the blade at 90 degrees).

    With the power off and disconnected (unplugged) take two straight edges and lay them flush up against the blade on both sides. (framing squares will work) Adjust the blade heighth almost to max, but where the straight edges are not resting against any of the teeth on the blade. The splitter should not touch on either side. (You can lift the kick-back pawls up and put a small screwdriver under then to keep them out of the way.)

    If it does, there are two adjusting bolts on the base of the blade guard assy that allow some horizontal adjustment. If the splitter is not square to the table, there are two more bolts underneath where the mount assy attaches to the saw mechanism that allow a rotational adjustment. This is covered in the set-up manual.

    It can be very tedious to get it right, because everything tends to move as you tighten the bolts, but it is a necessary adjustment. Just tighten the bolts a little at a time to minimize movement.



    PS. Where in the panhandle are you? I lived in Panama City for about 23 years. Do you work for AFCESA?
    Practicing at practical wood working


    • #3
      Excellent reply. When it warms up some, I will go out and true up that guard splitter. This was the ONE thing I did not check for squareness or perfection.

      I am down the road from PC..In FWB. CS duty with DOD.
      When in doubt, unplug the saw.