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any fix for a drill press?

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  • any fix for a drill press?

    I have a 10" craftsman drill press that's just under a year old. One time while using a spade bit (at too high of a speed setting I've now learned) the bit caught on a knot and the chuck came off the quill. It's a tapered quill and you just tap the chuck onto it. I cleaned it out and reset the chuck, but now it has considerable runout/wobble, to the point where it's almost un-usable. I've reset the chuck twice without any improvment. I think the quill is still true (at least as true as a cheap drill press can be) but I can't seem to get the chuck on straight.

    do you think the chuck could be damaged? I really don't see how, but I'm tempted to take it in to sears to see if there's anything they can do with it, or try a new chuck on it.

    any suggestions?

  • #2
    I hate to say this but you may have bent the spindle. Ask around your area to see if anyone has a dial indicator with a magnetic base. Think of someone that works in a machine shop. As for Sears having the right chuck, forget it. You'll need to find out what JACOBS TAPER the spindle has and then maybe get a new chuck. Look for an industrial supply house or you can go online to places such as McMaster Carr or MSC Industrial Supply. Rather than spending the high price for a genuine Jacobs industrial chuck you might look at Rohm from Germany or a good import. The problem is is that there are several sizes for the mounting. Most 1/2" chucks would be a JT 2, 6 or 33. Look on the chuck carefully and it should say. If you can find a way to measure the run-out you might try turning the chuck 1/2 turn and reseating it. To install a chuck on a tapered spindle you first just push it on by hand and then with a block of wood on the table and being carefull lower the spindle fast a few time and sort of woodpecker it on. You do not want to try to force press it on. Be sure the inside of the chuck (all of it) and the spindle taper are super clean first. Even a very tiny piece of dirt will mess you up. Good luck with this. If it is a bent spindle, more than likely the cost to replace it would be best invested in a new and better drill press. Your's could become parts salvage. Motor, switch, belts, pulleys and such. Sometimes you can find a very similar dress press with a bad motor cheap. Then just switch it with your's. By the way a good check should not run more than about $50 (quality import). I'll check back and if you can find the specs on your chuck please post them here. Once I have some more info from you, I'll post some links you might take look at. Good luck

    I should say FORGET Sears for service or a replacement chuck. They will only frustrate you. If you can get a good light and a magnifier and while turning the spindle pully by hand (remove belt) hold a sharp pencil point so it almost touches. Look for any runout. A dial indicator is much better, but this is if you can't locate one for now. Try some mineral spirits on a paper towel and clean both the spindle where the chuck mounts and inside the chuck body. Then wipe both parts dry. Use clean paper towels. You can use kerosene too, but please no dangerous chemicals. No water base chem either. WD40 on a rag would be better than nothing, but you must then rub it all off.
    Last edited by Woussko; 11-21-2006, 11:52 AM.


    • #3
      thanks for the tip on how to seat the chuck. I've just been banging away with a rubber mallet.

      to the eye the spindle doesn't have any runout, I'll try with a pencil. the chuck clearly does. I've been lining up the edge with the back post visually and turning it.

      I think I may be seating the chuck incorrectly, I'll try it today.


      • #4
        Before going too far you might just buy a new chuck and see if that doesn't fix the issue. Chucks can and do get damaged. Also with it off, please note everything on the chuck in the way of info and please post it here. Feel the part where the chuck mates with the spindle. It should be very smooth. No scratches or bumps. It and the inside of the chuck body where it mates, must be super clean too.


        • #5
          After reviewing the installation procedure for a "press" fit I see my Rigid 1550 advises to use the table and simple lower the spindle to press the chuck onto it). Have you observed the spindle without the chuck mounted (under power) to see if it runs true, without wobble?

          If it appears that the chuck or spindle it damaged, you could check the Sears' parts website for how much an OEM part will cost you. I'd dare guess that whatever you will need will probably cost at least half of what a brand new 10-inch benchtop will run.



          • #6
            I sure hope the spindle isn't bent or otherwise damaged. If it is and with there being several not too shabby benchtop drill presses out there for $150 or less, it would be best to just buy a new one. Changing a spindle is not an easy job and requires both skill and special tools. If it is the chuck, I would make Sears about the last place I would look. He may as well buy a good name brand one made by a real chuck company. Such would be better than the OEM one and I bet I can find a nicer price. The method of pressing it on works, but please place a wood block on the table. You really don't want to bang a steel chuck into a cast iron table. In addition a few good taps helps seat them. I really wish all drill presses had Morse taper socket spindles, but then I'm too used to more serious machinery. I = spoiled rotton LOL

            I hope he can post all the info off his chuck and also can try testing for runout with the chuck off. If you get it on really well it takes some work to remove it. If it comes off easy, something is deformed or not really clean.

            I best hush up and wait for more info to be posted. I'm only gonna confuse the issue too much.


            • #7
              with hand turning and with the power on, I can't see or feel any runout on the spindle.

              I was just thinking that since the unit is under warranty I may be able to get a new chuck from sears. but I have to send it off for 4-6 weeks.

              i guess that's what I get for a cheap DP... I'll try to reset the chuck over the weekend and see how it turns out. (or runs out)

              no it doesn't come of easy. and yes it is clean and smooth on the inside. I have to chuck up my largest allen wrench, lower the quill, and tap it with a rubber mallet. I try not to wail on it too much- I don't want to do damage to the spindle if I can avoid it.


              • #8
                This is an idea you might try but only if there is runout of the chuck body near the jaws. If you have the jaws opened all the way and you try the pencil trick, you might tap the chuck near the jaw end sideways with a block of hardwood or even just a light tap with a hammer. If it helps, then try tapping it or pressing it on harder. This is where if you had access to a dial indicator and some drill blanks we could find out if it's the spindle or the chuck that's at fault. Trying to eyeball a few 1/1000 inch is not easy. If you are say 0.003 out at the chuck but have a drill bit say 6 inches long you can have serious runout (wobble) at the point end. Measuring where the spindle and chuck mount but on the spindle itself you need less than +/- 0.001 runout. With a good ground drill blank of 1/2" size and coming down about 2-3 inches from the jaws with the jaws good and tight you need less than + / - 0.003 or as you get farther away from the jaws you'll really have problems.

                Idea: Do you have good light and a good magnifying glass? If yes, with the chuck off, look at the end of the spindle and with belt off turn it by hand grabbing the pully. Look for any wobble. Also fix up a way to hold a sharpened pencil point so it almost makes contact. If there is a wobble problem you should see it.

                Before you try taking the chuck off again, try several nice new drill bits. I have known some brand new ones (especially flat spade bits) to be slightly bent...defective. Take the belt off and turn the pully by hand slowly looking at the point end. Also try tightening the chuck with the key moved into all 3 holes. Insert it as far as you can and then pull it out just a tiny bit before tightening. This is where I wish you had a 1/2" "Drill Blank". Think of a precision ground hardened steel rod about 6" long and 0.500 in diameter. The problem is here goes your $$$ for stuff. Try several bits and also give them a 1/3 or 1/2 turn and try again.

                Ask around as someone you know just may have a few drill blanks and or a dial indicator. If the chuck body doesn't have runout, but several different drill bits do, then more than likely the jaws in your chuck are messed up. If the check body has runout then it's either a bent spindle or the chuck is not properly seated. Don't get ruff trying to remove it. If it's on, check first to see if the chuck body (not the outside sleeve) has any runout. Do this just above the jaw opening on the side. Good luck and if all of this is driving you crazy, maybe you can get a service tech to check it out. I would be totally going ape without a drill press for more than a week, but if you can stand the wait it's an option. The other one would be to call up power tool service centers and ask if they can do a quick check of your drill press. It only takes a few minutes to find out what's wrong.


                • #9
                  Happy Thanksgiving Everyone

                  I best take a break from this before I go totally crazy. It's one thing if you have stuff to do tests and another if you don't. A good dial indicator and magnetic base would cost as much or more than the replacement drill press would.
                  Last edited by Woussko; 11-22-2006, 05:53 PM.


                  • #10
                    i won't get to it until after the holiday, but the chuck body itself has runout, which is why I think it's not seated correctly. more to follow.