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  • Cast Iron Rust

    Hi all

    I have a new TS 3650 and JP061 both with cast iron tops.

    When I first put them together - within the last 2 mos - they developed some rust where I had rubbed off the protective grease during assembly. So when they were assembled, I stripped that grease off with mineral spirits, then buffed out the rust with a scotch pad and wd40 with my sander. I then waxed them with Johnsons paste wax.

    Nevertheless, I am still getting a light coat of surface rust on both tools. Just enough that I need to take a cloth and a lot of elbow grease to rub it off. I expected the wax to do a better job of protecting the tools than that.

    I should add that the jointer hasnt even been used yet. The TS - maybe turned on 15-20 times. So it's not a matter of the wax being rubbed off with heavy use.

    The tools are stored and used in my unheated garage and it has been wet recently - but those factors arent going to change.

    I have limited time for this hobby - and it seems like I am using the little that I have on TOOL MAINTENANCE rather than on tool usage.

    Is this rust problem normal? Is there a solution? Thanks in advance

  • #2
    Johnson Wax is a poor protector.

    Johnson Wax is a poor protector of metal surfaces. You want to apply a good grade military grade rust inhibitor like RemOil or Boeshield T-9. Also, most rust forms on surfaces due to condensation in unheated environments. If you leave a cover on the surface, you will avoid this.

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    • #3
      Johnson's Paste Wax is great for making cast iron surfaces slippery but is a little lacking in the actual rust prevention department. Personally, I use a base coat of Bostik TopCote followed by a coat of Johnson's Paste Wax on top of the TopCote. This combination has worked well for me for many years.

      Another product, Boeshield T-9, was rated top product in a WOOD magazine article a few years ago that dealt with rust removal and prevention.
      Teach your kids about taxes..........eat 30 percent of their ice cream.

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      • #4
        You live in a humid area go for the boeshield.
        Where I am the paste wax does a good job.
        www.TheWoodCellar.com

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        • #5
          Also cover up the tables when not in use.

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          • #6
            Great. I will buy one of those products. Do you guys recomend that I strip (again) the johnson's off and apply one of these?

            Does anybody disagree with the advice to cover the tools? Might that hold moisture in? I would use moving blankets. Thanks

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            • #7
              Originally posted by schreibdave View Post
              Great. I will buy one of those products. Do you guys recomend that I strip (again) the johnson's off and apply one of these?

              Does anybody disagree with the advice to cover the tools? Might that hold moisture in? I would use moving blankets. Thanks
              Don't worry, it won't hold the moisture in. I live in front of the ocean and with the salty air, anything that isn't covered up and made of steel is rusted over in a little more than a day.

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              • #8
                Originally posted by schreibdave View Post
                Do you guys recomend that I strip (again) the johnson's off and apply one of these?
                Depending on the amount of use my TS gets, I usually strip it down to bare metal 2 or 3 times a year and start fresh.
                Teach your kids about taxes..........eat 30 percent of their ice cream.

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                • #9
                  I'm near the beach, too, and use TopCote and moving blankets. Works great! Just be sure to hang the blankets where they can dry when they're not on the tools.

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                  • #10
                    I was always frustrated by the posts recommending one preservative or another because I don't have any WW stores within an hour and if send for it the postage can add 30%. Well, while shopping for the sons-in-law for Christmas I ran into a display of Boeshield at Sears in the tool dept - $20.

                    As far as Johnsons Wax goes, I found that I didn't get the best results unless I applied two coats and then one more a week or so. Not the best but better than nothing. I actually didn't notice the slow onset of rust's patina until I did as you did with WD-40 and a sander. Wow, the table looked new. One mistake... had heard of folks using a marine corrosion protectant called Corrosion-X, but I couldn't find it so I bought one at Bass Pro and it turned out to be a type which never got solid. I had to re-strip everything and start again. Stick with Boeshield or the equivalent.
                    Later,
                    Chiz
                    Later,
                    Chiz

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