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Problem ripping on TS3650

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  • Problem ripping on TS3650

    I am new to this woodworking thing, but am not a complete clutz and have read quite a bit. In fact, if you count reading and ignore execution, I am a very good woodworker!

    But now that I am actually DOING something, I am having a heck of a time with ripping. The far end of my cut is getting pulled away from the fence. This is no matter how much side pressure I put on the board (this is 2" oak, so I expect some resistance, but I am talking hard pusshing).

    Now today, the board got so tight it acually stopped the blade. I lowered the blade and ... surprise ... surprise, the board was actually stuck on the splitter.

    What the heck is going on?

    Any help appreciated ... and the sooner the better... as I am working on this dang thing all weekend.

    Thanks... and Happy New Years to all.

    George

  • #2
    Sounds like a blade alignment problem George. Maybe that sounds too simple...

    ...Others with more knowledge than me will likely chime in.

    I'll read to see what the diagnosis is...
    Stay well and play well.
    Skip

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    • #3
      I suggest you get out your manual and redo the assembly instructions for aligning the fence, the saw blade and the blade guard/splitter. It does sound like you have some sort of alignment problem and hopefully that will fix it. One other thing, a feather board is often helpful in keeping the workpiece pressed against the fence when ripping. At time, I've used two feather boards when ripping. One to hold the wood against the fence and another mounted to the fence to hold the wood down to the table top.
      Teach your kids about taxes..........eat 30 percent of their ice cream.

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      • #4
        You say you lowered the blade and it was stuck on the splitter.

        I interpret this to be that the kerf closed up after the piece passed the blade and is clamped around the splitter, it that correct?

        If so this sounds like could be from internal stress in the board.
        Does the same thing happen with other boards, especially from a different source (not the same run through the mill or with a different species of lumber)?

        With the saw off and unplugged, what happens when you lay a known good straight edge against one side of the blade? Does it receive interference from the splitter that does not let it rest alongside the blade or does it just clear or lay in close proximity to (or just touching slightly) the splitter?

        Have you gone through the COMPLETE alignment process in the required order? You can't start in the middle of the process and expect to get a satisfactory result. There is a purposeful order to the alignment process; follow on steps rely on the previous alignment steps to achieve the correct adjustment.
        ---------------
        Light is faster than sound. That's why some people seem really bright until you hear them speak.
        ---------------
        “If I had my life to live over again, I'd be a plumber.” - Albert Einstein
        ---------
        "Its a table saw.... Do you know where your fingers are?"
        ---------
        sigpic http://www.helmetstohardhats.com/

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        • #5
          Also, when checking the splitter, make sure it is vertical by checking it with a try square against the table top. If the top is closer to the fence than the bottom, it can wedge a thick board against the fence even if the bottom of the splitter lines up with the blade.
          To vertically align the splitter (called a spreader in the manual), look at the illustration at the top of page 37 in the manual that came with the saw. The two "hex head screws" shown that mount the blade guard support to the "cradle" are the ones that have to be loosened/tightened when adjusting the spreader to vertical. The spreader and spreader mount must be installed during this process. This procedure is VERY poorly described in the manual, so I can understand if it wasn't done or done properly. To get access to the bolts, it is easier if you remove the pulley belt from the motor do give you room to turn the wrench (12 mm). Loosen the bolts, and hold the spreader against a try square set flat on the table with the blade pointing up. Tighten the bolts and check for square. Once it is vertical, you will probably have to re-align the splitter (to get it straight behind the blade and not touching the straight edges on each side as described on the bottom of the same page (37) in your user manual.
          In case the page numbers have changed since I bought mine a year ago, the topic for the first procedure is "Installing Blade Guard" and the second process is "Aligning Blade Guard". Based on the number of folks posting problems with this, it seems it is easy not to realize there is a critical alignment step in the installation portion.
          The reason the manual doesn't describe removing the pulley belt is because this process is supposed to be done before installing the motor.
          Make sure you check blade to miter slot adjustment as well as fence to blade alignment as well like Bob D. stated.
          If your problem is very green wet wood causing it to bind up on the splitter, I have laid a couple layers of clear cellophane packing tape on the sides of the splitter to widen it to the full width of the blade. (I was cutting pressure treated lumber). If your oak is doing that, let it dry out some, or it will probably warp beyond being useful after you cut it anyway.

          Hope this helps and doesn't confuse

          Go

          P.S. If the motor doesn't start when you next fire it up after the "blade stopped", press the red reset button on the motor and check the circuit breaker and GCFI reset. Also, make sure the blade nut is tight. With all that stress on the blade, you may need a mallet to loosen the nut.
          Last edited by Gofor; 12-30-2006, 10:20 PM.
          Practicing at practical wood working

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          • #6
            Gofor was right!

            Wanted you guys to know you helped a lot with the splitter/binding problem

            Turns out the top of the spliter was bent in (don't ask me how) so that the board was binding when I cut taller stock. Also explains why it was so difficult to diagnose since it was intermitent!

            Thanks to all for you help!

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