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Need advice on a new table saw

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  • #16
    Ok, did some research into Grizzly, GI, Steel City, Jet, and Delta saws and so far i'm leaning towards a Steel City cabinet saw. I will call the companies next week to find more info though, as well. 220v is available to me, so I think I will go ahead and take advantage of that also. I'm leaning towards a Steel City model 35606 http://www.steelcitytoolworks.com/pr...=12&tool=35606 , which it seems is very similar to the Craftsman 22124. However I think I would choose SC, as I have read great things about their saws/fences, and I read that their customer service is exceptional as well. I did find it odd however that the SC model is 100 lbs. lighter (335 lbs.) than the craftsman (438 lbs.) At the very least, that would make it easier to stop should it decide to go for a roll down the driveway... I'm also taking a very serious look at the Forrest WWII saw blade. Which brings me to....more questions!

    As far as the cut goes, what are the differences between thin-kerf and full-kerf blades?

    That is all for now

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    • #17
      Originally posted by wearinsawdust View Post
      As far as the cut goes, what are the differences between thin-kerf and full-kerf blades?
      If you're talking about the quality of the cut then there is no difference if both the blades are equal except for the width of the blade itself.
      ================================================== ====
      All of us could take a lesson from the weather. It pays no attention to criticism.

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      • #18
        I saw my first Steel City TS today at the Woodworking show. They had one with the table off so you could see the trunnion setup inside. Those puppies are massive let me tell you. Walking around and looking at the Delta, SC, General, Powermatic, and others I think I left a drool trail through the whole place

        I think the PM2000 would get my money if I could justify $2100 for a TS, but I do nowhere near the quality or quantity of work to justify an investment like that. It is a beautiful machine though, and the built-in retractable caster system tops anything I have seen on any TS yet.

        The SC TS had a lower price and is an awsome TS, it will give Delta a run for the money for sure.

        The DeWalt TS (I don't even see it listed on their website yet) comes with a CI sliding table in place of the left side wing, very cool. It's $1600 right now but the Rep said in a few weeks it will be going on sale for $1250.
        Last edited by Bob D.; 01-06-2007, 09:49 PM.
        "It's a table saw, do you know where your fingers are?" Bob D. 2006

        https://www.youtube.com/user/PowerToolInstitute

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        • #19
          Originally posted by wearinsawdust View Post
          Ok, did some research into Grizzly, GI, Steel City, Jet, and Delta saws and so far i'm leaning towards a Steel City cabinet saw. I will call the companies next week to find more info though, as well. 220v is available to me, so I think I will go ahead and take advantage of that also. I'm leaning towards a Steel City model 35606 http://www.steelcitytoolworks.com/pr...=12&tool=35606 , which it seems is very similar to the Craftsman 22124. However I think I would choose SC, as I have read great things about their saws/fences, and I read that their customer service is exceptional as well. I did find it odd however that the SC model is 100 lbs. lighter (335 lbs.) than the craftsman (438 lbs.) At the very least, that would make it easier to stop should it decide to go for a roll down the driveway... I'm also taking a very serious look at the Forrest WWII saw blade. Which brings me to....more questions!

          As far as the cut goes, what are the differences between thin-kerf and full-kerf blades?

          That is all for now

          Regarding weight - The odds are good that one includes the fence weight and the other doesn't. Total weight is likely over 400 lbs.

          Kerf width is really up to you. Some have and use full kerf, some like thin. On a good blade the cut should be the same. The thin will take less wood so will cut easier and make less dust. The rule of thumb is to use thin if you're saw is less than 3 horse. You could do alot worse than the Forest. Hard to do much better though unless you get two blades and switch between crosscut and rip blades with every cut!

          Steel City seems to be making a good impression. The only bad thing I've read was what appears to be a band saw review of a tool the reviewer didn't setup or research very well. Steel City blasted right back with an answer to the gripes that would have been remedied by following the manual's instructions. Nuther reason I don't put much faith in reviews. Rather hear it from users.
          Last edited by Knot Me; 01-07-2007, 04:48 AM.

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          • #20
            i researched for 5 months before i got my new TS. for the money and features i got what i wanted. (3650ridgid) that new hybrid craftsman seems to do well also as does the hitachi. i found one thing to be true on any site i searched on....buy what you can afford. if you can go get a cabinet saw then do so as they are the top dogs in any TS.on the other hand, buy what you can fit into your shop also hehe.enjoy the hobby/job whatever it may be but get what you want/can. I personally had to step up in saws due to lack of funds on inital purchase.with so many to choose from , do your research and good luck on choice.

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            • #21
              Originally posted by wearinsawdust View Post
              Ok, did some research into Grizzly, GI, Steel City, Jet, and Delta saws and so far i'm leaning towards a Steel City cabinet saw. I will call the companies next week to find more info though, as well. 220v is available to me, so I think I will go ahead and take advantage of that also. I'm leaning towards a Steel City model 35606 http://www.steelcitytoolworks.com/pr...=12&tool=35606 , which it seems is very similar to the Craftsman 22124. However I think I would choose SC, as I have read great things about their saws/fences, and I read that their customer service is exceptional as well. I did find it odd however that the SC model is 100 lbs. lighter (335 lbs.) than the craftsman (438 lbs.) At the very least, that would make it easier to stop should it decide to go for a roll down the driveway... I'm also taking a very serious look at the Forrest WWII saw blade. Which brings me to....more questions!

              As far as the cut goes, what are the differences between thin-kerf and full-kerf blades?

              That is all for now
              To get a very good overview of your options look at:
              Kelly Mehler's "Table Saw Book" available from Amazon.com for about 15 bucks.
              When I was trying to select mine I found that there's nothing like putting my hands on the alternatives. There's nothing like "feeling" the differences. My conclusion was that unless you want to do some really serious woodworking a High-end contractor's saw is plenty good enough. I settled on the Ridgid 3650 and haven't been disappointed. I would rather spend my budget on saw blades and other after-market stuff than iron. One thing, though, think about upgrading the mitre gage if you're going to buy a contractor's saw. That and the fence are the most important components of the saw in my opinion, although the cast iron extensions are lovely. The main disadvantage of a cabinet saw to me was the lack of portability. The Herculift base makes the 3650 a piece of cake to move in a crowded shop.

              Hope this helps.
              Blind Bill

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              • #22
                Wow guys, thanks for all your advice! It's given me alot more to go on in choosing a table saw!

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