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My TS3612 wishlist

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  • My TS3612 wishlist

    I first need to say that I think the Ridgid TS3612 saw is probably the best you can get for teh money. It's easily 2-3 hundred cheaper than entry level woodworker saws by the other companies. However, there are a few things that I would like to see.

    1.) Solid top extensions/wings should be available, even if aftermarket. I don't know how many times my tapes and misc tools have dropped through the webbing. (maybe sell them at the service centers.) BTW, I like the webbing, just not on both sides.

    2.) Drill both side of the extensions to accept accessories.

    3.) Make longer rails available for those who want more than 36" to right. (Hey, they're extruded, have T slots for mounting, and can be cut to any length. Heck, I bet others may put them on their saws if the price is good.)

    4.) Outfeed tables and right side extension tables. (I realize shipping weight is a concern, but a hardware kit with instructions would be nice. [5 lbs?] Also, I wouldn't mind buying the wood stock at the lumber yard if I had the proper hardware.)

    5.) More accessories. Since Ridgid does not make many woodworking accessories, maybe try different brand name accessories. You could then just say that brand x, model x has been tested and works with this machine.

    6.) Maybe a router table extension.

    While I know HD would not stock these, and they may ??? be too heavy to ship UPS, they could be sold at cervice centers. (Like the way Dewalt sells stuff)

    Also, Ridgid plumbing and pipefitting tools sell well everywhere. Why not start selling the Ridgid woodworking tools elsewhere? (I mean, how long can an exclusive contract with HD be?)

    My 2 cents.

  • #2

    That's a pretty good list, and I agree with most of it. I also would like to have seen pre-drilled holes in the right wing, in particular, so it would be easier to mount an extension table. The extra holes would also make it easier to add a router table extension if it was desired.

    As for the outfeed table, these plans aren't from Ridgid, but I just built an outfeed table from them for my 3612 and it works very well. (Click here for Outfeed Plans) It is made to work with the slots in the wings.

    One final thoughts on the wings - I like the slots because they make it easier to clamp things to the table, but you could make some inexpensive inserts that would fit into each slot and be flush with the table surface if you want to eliminate the holes. I am pondering doing that myself, but I will probably add an extension table to the right side first and see if that's enough solid surface for my purposes.

    [ 12-13-2002, 10:26 AM: Message edited by: Stuart H ]


    • #3
      I like the router extension idea. Good list.



      • #4
        Nice list, but I wouldn't hold my breath on everything happening. HD barely supports the full line of Rigid woodworking tools---I don't think they've realized that the 3612 has caught the eye of serious hobbiests.

        I really like your idea about selling a hardware kit for an outfeed table---great thought----same could probably be applied to a router extension, though, it's really not that hard to fabricate one.

        As to rail extensions, miter gauge and other accessories, I've often thought they should offer an option of a reduced price, if you just want the saw---with the idea that you're going to add your own Biesemeyer or other aftermarket fence---would save a great deal of money.

        But, again, I don't see it happening while their still chained to HD. HD just doesn't seem to support serious woodworkers, like they used to.


        • #5
          Stuart, Thanks for the link to the outfeed table plans. It seems that they also have a few more things that will fit the Ridgid table saws.


          • #6
            Mike - You're welcome. I looked at some of those other plans, too, but haven't bought or tried any of them yet. As for the outfeed table, I made a couple of very minor modifications to mine. I supported the outfeed table with two legs at the far end rather than a single leg, and I used longer angle iron/flat steel pieces so that the supports went the entire length of the wings rather than only covering three of the "bays" in each wing. I also went with the two legs for extra support, and the chair glides I used on the bottom of each leg are threaded so that the legs can be leveled independently. I didn't bother with aluminum tubing for the legs and used some 1" hardwood dowels instead (they were easier to find).

            If that didn't make a lot of sense, it will if you decide to buy the plans and make the table. I didn't add it up, but I'm fairly certain the whole thing was under $30, which wasn't bad at all. I am really liking the extra support for rip cuts and highly recommend an outfeed table of some kind for every table saw.

            One more quick note - the way the table works, I always have an extra 12" of outfeed support even when the large part of the table is folded down. It doesn't take up any extra storage space, though, because the motor sticks back that far anyway. I believe I added about 2" to the depth of my saw using those plans and 3/4" MDF.

            If you have any questions about the plans, feel free to ask me.


            • #7
              Excellent suggestions. I especially like the longer rails. Maybe, you could upgrade to the longer rails at the time of purchase to avoid wasting money on the shorter set that you aren't going to use. I have been using my TS2424 for a year now and there are a few other things that I would like to see (maybe some already exist on the TS3612).

              1) Another (alternative) source of distribution. I know I am not the only one who has had trouble finding the latest products and good help from the HD staff. Anyone who has read this group on a regular basis has seen the HD problems. Jake, I know you can't "bad mouth" your one and only distributer, but is anything being done about this? Luckily I have also experienced the AWESOME Ridgid customer support.

              2) I know this has been discussed many times before and I have never had a problem, but I would still like to see a blade height lock just for total assurance that nothing is going to change once I get everything set.

              3) A thicker insert that would make it easier to make your own zero clearance inserts (from Baltic Birch Plywood, etc). This point is not as important now that Ridgid sells their own zero clearance inserts at a very reasonable price.

              4) A Biesemeyer style splitter (accessory).



              • #8
                Mike -

                I had a friend once that had webbed wings that he didn't like. His solution: temporarily fasten a piece of ply on the underside of the wing, sand the paint off the webs, fill the web cavities with Bondo (the automotive dent filler), let harden and sand smooth with the top of the wing, paint to match, remove the temporary ply from the bottom.



                • #9
                  Need to add one thing to my list...

                  THE SLOTS ON THE MITRE GUAGE WONN'T EVEN LET A 1/4-20 BOLT SLIDE IN PLACE! I TRIED TO FASTEN MY NEW FENCE JIG AND COULDN'T DO SO WITHOUT FILING OUT THE SLOTS. (normally no big deal, but the bare aluminum will corrode quickly in the garage)

                  I also wanted to let everyone know of the webbing solution I put into place yesterday.

                  After posting my wishlist the other day, I looked again at the webbing only to realize that the webbing is actually below the table surface. (as opposed to coming all the way up and getting mackined flat) Anyway, I measured and cut some 1/4" stock (tight fitting) and now the saw works good as new. Also, the 1/4" stuff didn't come all the way to the table surface, so I don't have to worry about catching the boards.


                  • #10
                    but the bare aluminum will corrode quickly in the garage

                    Please explain further, Mike?

                    My understanding has always been that aluminum oxidizes instantly, which is why corrosion isn't a big deal with it. That's also why it leaves black marks if you slide wood across it, aluminum oxide being black in color.



                    • #11
                      Aluminum will begin to corrode right away, but will continue to corrode if not treated. haven't you ever seen a piece of aluminum that has sat over time? The whole connection or joint becomes one piece, much like a rusting bolt. When you think of the protective barrier, maybe you are thinking of the aluminum being anodized?


                      • #12
                        Anodization is for abrasion resistance. I've never seen aluminum corrode in the way you say, other than if it has been exposed to an acid environment.



                        • #13
                          Anodization is also used to keep parts from corroding and for electrical insulation. I have had aluminum parts bind together on me much like a rusted nut and bolt. I suppose that I will be putting a coating on the bare surface that I filed, but why were the slots undersized to begin with?


                          • #14
                            D.A. -

                            From McNally Institute:

                            A021. ANODIZE

                            A treatment used on aluminum to put a heavy stable film of protective oxide on the metal surface.

                            It is similar to the passivated layer that forms on stainless steel. Once this layer is formed the oxidization (corrosion) rate slows down to less than 0.002 inches (0.05 mm) per year, which is the definition of corrosion resistance.

                            In recent years the aluminum industry has learned how to color this oxide or ceramic layer. Needless to say it should never be polished, or rubbed off.

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                            I don't think the corrosion happens extremely fast, as in overnight, but it does happen. The most common place I have seen it is on aluminum triple-track storm windows, notice how they get pimpley with black bumpies on them, thats corrosion, even over anodization.


                            [ 12-15-2002, 09:43 PM: Message edited by: gator ]


                            • #15
                              I sit corrected. Apologies, gentlemen, for the misinformation.

                              Then again, the aluminum windows in my house are (Dave kicks off shoes) 26 years old and not corroded. They are anodized, though. I've seen that kind of corrosion in Southern California, maybe I was at least right about the atmosphere?

                              Almost didn't get to learn something new today, thanks Gator!