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Delta 34-183 Tenoning jig for TS2412

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  • Delta 34-183 Tenoning jig for TS2412

    I got the Delta 34-183 Tenoning jig for X-mas and from a previous post here I found that the mitre bar was a little bigger than the mitre slot on my Ridgid TS2412. I sanded downt the bar and it slides perfectly in my mitre slot, but...
    Going through the Delta instructions I'm supposed to unassemble the jig and move the mitre bar from right to left and alight the bar under a different set of pre-drilled holes in the jig. (It's for left tilting saw only). I did that and reassmble and aligned the jig and then I started playing with it. I was goint to try and cut an 1/8" off each side of a 3/4" thick oak board to make a 1/2" thick tenon. Having no previous experience with any tenoning jig, I did what Norm does... Poisition the jig so it cuts the 1/8" off the outside side of the board. Well the tenoning jig doesn't slide far enough away from the blade to put a 3/4" thick board in the jig and cut off only an 1/8". So I thought I'd position the jig so it's cuts on the inside of the board (between the blade and the jig). That works OK, but from watching others use a tenoning jig it doesn't appear to be the safest and best way to use the jig. Has anyone else had the same experience with this jig?

  • #2
    There is lots of adjustments on that thing, I had to play with mine a 1/2 day and learn it good before I even put a key in the saw to turn it on.
    Keep fiddlin, you'll get it.
    John E. Adams<br /><a href=\"\" target=\"_blank\"></a>


    • #3
      I am not sure if I have the same model, but I would assume it is. I too had to sand down the miter bar and move the bar to the other side of the base plate. However, I have been able to cut tenons the normal way you see Norm doing it. If you have to cut the tenons on the inside something does not seem right. It also seems dangerours. The action of the cut does not seem overly dangerous, but the fact that you will not be able to slide the jig back, because the small piece may get caught and kick back. This leaves you with leaning over the blade to lift the jig and bring it back each time. If you were to turn the saw off each time I guess it would not be bad, but sometimes we may get in a hurry and not turn the saw off. I did something similar once and was fortunate to only loose all the layers of skin off my left index finger. Since then the first move I make after each cut is turing the saw off. I wish I could help you more with the set up, but I do not have the jig in front of me. I will look at it tonight and try to figure out what your problem may be.



      • #4
        This same subject came up on Woodnet----we couldn't seem to convince one guy not to make inside cuts Chris mentioned---he cut into the face plate.

        Anyway, fiddle with it a while----my Delta is an older model, so what I did probably won't help---but if you can't get it, give Delta a call.


        • #5
          Thanks, guys. I'm 'afraid' to use it with the cut being between the jig and the blade. I'll play around with it some more tonight to see if I can get it right.

          On another note: As I set up and aligned everything according to the instructions the red pointer used to measure the distance between the blade and the jig cannot even come close to being at '0'.