No announcement yet.

ts3650 fence problem

  • Filter
  • Time
  • Show
Clear All
new posts

  • ts3650 fence problem

    I finally have the saw all together and I can't believe how quiet it is. It even passed the "nickle test." I found that the miter slots were within .002 of parallel to the blade, so no adjustment needed there. I am having a problem with the fence, though.

    When I lock it down using a miter gauge slot as a guide, I can see that the back is off by over 1/16" of an inch. I tried to adjust the fence by loosening the four bolts and using a framing square in the miter slot and later, a blade from a combination square. I locked it in, tightened the bolts and thought everything would be good. The problem won't go away. This fence handle was broken while still in the box, so mabe it got wacked really good and something is goofed up? I am looking for any advice. Other than this problem, I am happy with the saw.

  • #2

    I think you answered your question when you said that the handle got busted off. If you can stand doing it, I would return the saw and tell the customer service people that there was hidden damage that you found unpacking it. Your other choice would be to buy and install (takes some work on your part) a better fence. In that long run you'll like having a better fence, but you won't like the $ or all the work.

    If you have a good 3 or 4 foot steel rule or a level, check the fence for any bends or twists. If it is bent, twisted, warped, it's no good. If you can stand the cost and work needed, I would think hard about looking at a really good T-square fence. I think because the rest of your table saw seems fine, you should take a little time and think everything over. What a shame and what a PITA it would be for you if you did all the work to exchange your table saw for another and found it (new one) to have problems.

    Do make somewhat of a fuss as this is where HD should give you another fence. Do call customer service and tell them about this.

    Please tell more about how you got the fence squared. Did the problem come back when you tried to adjust the fence? If you apply force, you can bend them a little only to have it spring back.
    Last edited by Woussko; 01-14-2007, 04:27 PM.


    • #3
      Dear Sir,
      Thank you for taking the time to offer help. You and I are on the same wavelength regarding returning a saw and maybe getting a worse one. I had the same fear. You asked how I squared the fence. The manual says to put the blade of a combination square in the miter slot and push the fence up to it. You then loosen the four bolts on the fence and and let the fence square itself to the combination square blade in the miter slot. Then, tighten the bolts alternately and the thing is supposed to automagically be square. Well, it did not work and I could see the fence pop over to the right at the back end.

      I tried a framing square in the miter slot to square up to thinking its height and length might offer some advantage. It did not. Then, I tried a straight piece of 3/4" oak that I had. I put it into the miter slot and repeated the whole process. This time, I think it worked. By sight and be feeling along the miter slot I do not detect any difference. I'll get out the dial indicator and see how well it works. Before that, I will try ripping a piece of wood and see if it is a constant width from back to front and see it I get any burning.

      The whole time I was fooling around with this saw I kept glancing at my nearly 40 year old Sears saw with the Vega fence, wondering if the dust collection on this new Rigid was worth all this trouble. I could always put the Vega fence on the Rigid, but I had heard so many good things about the saw that I hoped I would be happy with the stock fence and be able to sell the Vega and some of the Sears saw parts on Fleabay.

      I spent a little time this afternoon making some zero clearance inserts for the saw. Why anyone who is interested in woodworking would buy these is beyond me. Same thing goes for $9.95 push sticks!

      Thanks again. I am glad to have this kind of support for a tool. This is the first new tool I have ever owned. Everything else is old, but good.

      I'll probably have other questions for the forum as I proceed.



      • #4
        zero clearance plate

        This may be a dumb question, but here goes. How do you make a zero clearance plate for the 3650? I am still pretty new to wood working (self-taught), so any help will really be appreciated.


        • #5


          Before you attempt to rip anything, be sure the rear of your fence is slightly (about the thickness of 1 sheet of paper) more to the right (away from blade) than the front. If not you'll have dangerous binding and a good chance for kick back. You don't need to go getting hurt there. As for selling a table saw on "Fleabay" (love your name for them) think about the shipping problems. If you do have a good Vega fence, try with care to install it on your new table saw. If your old Craftsman is one of the really well made cast iron contractor style saws, the whole or most of it may very well be a better machine than your new one. You might want to give it a good checking over and if you feel like it, crossbred the two machines using the best of each. Warning: You may need a mechanical engineer and a good machinest to help. Try removing the fence on your Ridgid tagle saw and check the rail(s) to be sure they are square and true. Use the table as your guide. My old table saw that I use has a double rail half insane fence on it. I have to set the front and lock it, then the rear and lock it, and then check it using a blade tooth and measure over to the fence. First start in front, then turn the blade and check the rear. This takes time, but is a good way to not make a mess or get hurt. I dream of the day when I'll have a nice new true cabinet style table saw and a good commercial-industrial T square fence on it. For now the old "One of a kind" does most of what I need from it.
          Last edited by Woussko; 01-14-2007, 09:26 PM.


          • #6
            dlgdoo, this thread will answer your question

            The one thing I'd add for safety is that the block of wood he refers to should be long enough to be clamped down so you don't have to hold the block of wood down while raising the blade.

            David, I'm sorry to hear of your problems with the fence. In my opinion, that's one of the best things about the saw. I have had some trouble with a Ridgid jointer, and called their service department with a list of parts I needed replaced. I had all the part numbers (got them from the .pdf manual on the website), and they were more than happy to send them, even though the tool is more than a year old. On your saw, I'd say to replace the long rod and definately the lever, as well as the mounting elements for the lever. It's possible that when the lever got broken, the impact that broke it was enough to bend the rod.

            Good luck with your saw, and I hope everything goes well!! I really enjoy mine.
            I put it all back together better than before. There\'s lots of leftover parts.


            • #7

              Great thinking there. I give you 5 gold stars. I had to go look online at the table saw picture as I was thinking the wrong model in my mind.


              Check the mounting rail the fence rides on. Is it true with the front of the table? If that rail needs some adjusting or is in any way damaged it needs to be repaired or most likely replaced. Did you see any damages other than the handle (fence) being broken? Something happened to bust it and I have a feeling there are other damaged parts too. Using the best straight edge you have and a good square check your fence rail with care. Everything about it needs to be dead on. Be sure it is parallel with your table and square with the miter slots. You may need some thin shims between the rail and your table to get it exact.


              • #8
                Everything seems to be working as it should now. I think I will start working on the outfeed table. I got used to the one on the old Crafstman and will use some of the ideas posted here to make a new one for the 3650.


                • #9
                  I'm posting this just in case you haven't seen this thread yet. 3650 Outfeed Table
                  I decided to change calling the bathroom the "John" and renamed it the "Jim". I feel so much better saying I went to the Jim this morning.


                  • #10
                    Thanks, Badger Dave. I did see this, but I liked a design from Jerrbit that uses 2 x 4s as supports. I was hoping to bolt the supports to the case using the two holes that are already there up near the table top at the front and back. I am having trouble figuring out how to get it to all work out if the motor is tilted to the 45 degree mark. Jerbitt cut his support out a bit to allow the motor to pivot, but the way I look at it and through trial and error (more on the error side!) I would have to remove about 3" of the 3.5" width of the 2 x 4 to get it to work. That's seems a bit thin to me.
                    I'll keep playing with it and maybe a stroke of genious will hit me. I did not think it would be this confusing to do.


                    • #11
                      I got frustrated with my fence on my TS2424 and replaced it with the Biesemeyer. My fence twisted when I locked it down. I loosened the bolt on the back and then the fence wouldn't lock down properly! The Biesemeyer fence locks down on the front rail only! What a difference does that make! You talk about accuracy!
                      Also, it allows you to add extension tables with router inserts very easily!



                      • #12
                        Re: ts3650 fence problem

                        Did you ever get home depot to replace your fence? I just found out my fence handle is broken as well..

                        "A long journey starts with the first step and an understanding spouse."