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  • Closet becomes a TV/storage cabinet...

    Just wondering...if I am missing something...former bedroom/nursery was long ago comverted into an office/den-type room. Closet (24" door) was left as original but we have used it for books and magazine storage as well as a place for the TV(on a cart) so the TV doesn't take up valuable floor space. The idea is to remove the door, increase the opening to maximize the width available and reframe with matching trim. The base 'cabinet' will be built in for storage and to support the TV at counter-top height. Shelves will be optional/flexible behind and above the TV(for DVD, VHS tape storage as well as magazines). Overhead light in closet will be converted to electrical outlet for power(TV cable is routed through floor from basement). Considering rigid foam for sound insulation behind TV and behind the sides(predrilled melamine or MDF?). Wall is not load-bearing but this is my first project that involves putting holes in our 50 year-old walls...I'll brace the opening until I get it reframed, just in case.

    Thanks for reading my story. This is a 'practice run' before I attempt to build floor-to-ceiling cabs/bookshelves in the living room. Am I forgetting something????? Thanks for a great forum!!!

  • #2
    You probably have thought of this and didn't mention it: When doing your design, you may want to include holes on the shelves, TV support, etc, or adding plastic "cable runs" in the back to allow you to route all the electronic connections. However you do it, you will want to make sure you can access them as you add/change components in the future. Another option would be to make false back panels for the compartments that stick to regular small door magnets and run the wiring behind it.
    A surge protector/power strip mounted in a readily accessible location is a big plus for hooking up the power.
    For the base cabinet, you may want read up a little on kitchen cabinet construction/installation, particularly the area about leveling the base cabinet, matching existing wall profile, etc. The closet walls are not plumb, square or straight until proven otherwise.!

    Sounds like a neat project.
    Go
    Last edited by Gofor; 01-15-2007, 11:18 PM.
    Practicing at practical wood working

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    • #3
      I also suggest that you check with an electrical forum

      http://forum.doityourself.com/forumdisplay.php?f=9

      to make sure the plan for tying into the overhead light box is sound. You may have some grounding issues.

      Good luck and please let us know how it turns out.

      DWC

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      • #4
        Originally posted by Gofor View Post
        You probably have thought of this and didn't mention it: When doing your design, you may want to include holes on the shelves, TV support, etc, or adding plastic "cable runs" in the back to allow you to route all the electronic connections. However you do it, you will want to make sure you can access them as you add/change components in the future. Another option would be to make false back panels for the compartments that stick to regular small door magnets and run the wiring behind it.
        A surge protector/power strip mounted in a readily accessible location is a big plus for hooking up the power.
        For the base cabinet, you may want read up a little on kitchen cabinet construction/installation, particularly the area about leveling the base cabinet, matching existing wall profile, etc. The closet walls are not plumb, square or straight until proven otherwise.!

        Sounds like a neat project.
        Go
        Thanks for the suggestions. The closet is 29" deep so there is room for the false panels but I think I will go with a cutout in the shelves for the wiring...that way, I can use the back panel for support if the shelf width/load requires it. The power strip is currently(too early for puns!) used to power the TV, DVD/VCR combo, tape rewinder and emergency flashlight. See below for other electrical issues. Thanks again!

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        • #5
          Originally posted by dwcurry View Post
          I also suggest that you check with an electrical forum

          http://forum.doityourself.com/forumdisplay.php?f=9

          to make sure the plan for tying into the overhead light box is sound. You may have some grounding issues.

          Good luck and please let us know how it turns out.

          DWC
          I'll certainly check your source for more info...THANKS. Currently(same pun as before), I tapped into the overhead light with a plug/socket adapter...running a power strip(not a surge protector) for the TV, VCR, etc. Since our 50 year old wiring doesn't have grounding throughout the house(has been patched in for heat pump and computer hookups), I plan to GFI the outlet(realizing there is still no ground) to get some protection and allow legit use of a three-prong power strip.

          By-the-by, I plan to install double doors on the bottom cab but I hope I can finesse the 'hutch' TV compartment to(later) accept sliding/disappearing doors if DW wants to hide the TV, etc...right now, she is OK with the open upper compartment.

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