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  • ok how do i get passed this one?

    As many of you may have read in previous posts, Santa brought me a thickness planer.

    Of course i have the jointer and table saw.

    the jointer is 6"

    I have a BUNCH of rough sawn silver maple in the garage not one is less than 6" wide.

    i have no problem cutting them down to 6" wide face jointing, edge jointing thickness planing and then ripping and cleaning the other side with the table saw and jointer.


    is there any way around cutting these down to 6" to mill down to useable stock? if i have to i will, that is what glue is for but if i can get around ripping them down and using the 8 to 10 inch boards as they are, how do i do it?

    the only thing i can think of is to move the jointer fence over to joint the face of one board 6 inches. then asjust the fence snd flip the board to take off the extra 2-3"? then use that flat face to joint one side prior to sending through the thickness planer? does this work or is there a better way?
    \"A SHIP OF WAR IS THE BEST AMBASSADOR\"<br /><br />OLIVER CROMWELL

  • #2
    How thick is your stock? Does it have any bad bows or twists?

    While I've never tried this, here's a suggestion to consider---

    You could make a sled for your surface planer---8 foot length of 3/4" plywood, or composite stock, wide enough to handle your widest board, with two hardwood rails (which don't project above surface beyond your estimated final thickness of the maple)---this to stiffen the plywood.

    Then, you'll have to assess each piece and put the flattest side down on the plywood. I'd try keeping it in place with some double-stick tape and if that doesn't work---a couple of screws---obviously short enough so they won't be hit with the planer.

    Since this is a new toy, you should have pretty sharp knives----

    Set up in and outfeed supports and take really thin cuts---if the board has some bow, you don't want the planer rollers pushing down, distorting the bow down.

    Then, just keep taking very small passes until you get the surface flat---then you can take off the plywood and do the other side normally. You can then square up the edges as you should have two parallel faces. Again---take really small passes

    I'm assuming you have 4/4 stock---if it's thicker, you could be less ginger about taking small cuts, as it will less likely deflect.
    Dave

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    • #3
      The sled trick works ok if you're willing to mess with it a bit.

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      • #4
        Use one of those hand planes you have been playing with and flatten one side. It does not have to be perfect as you will be running both sides through the planer, all you are doing is making one side realatively flat by knocking off the high spots and cupping. If the boards are 8/4 never mind the cupping just ensure there is no twist or warp along the length of the board

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        • #5
          There is a good article in this months' Fine Wood Working Magazine that has plans for a planer sled and discusses set up and operation.

          It may be of interest to you.

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