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What's a good finish for my first spray project?

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  • What's a good finish for my first spray project?

    Hi folks,
    I'm finishing a shoe rack in cherry to match the kitchen cabs. In order to get a good color saturation I had to wipe the second coat lightly, leaving a bit on the surface. I was going to do a wipe on finish so that the raised panels could float, not being held captive by the topcoat but with the superficial stain this doesn't look like an option. I do have a cheap ($50) Harbor Freight HVLP sprayer that I haven't played with yet so I was thining that this is the perfect opportunity. Of course it's going to take a bit of practice off-project to get a good techique. My Q is what would be a good choice of finishes for this.
    Later,
    Chiz
    Later,
    Chiz
    https://www.ridgidforum.com/core/ima...lies/frown.pnghttps://www.ridgidforum.com/core/ima...es/redface.pnghttps://www.ridgidforum.com/core/ima...s/rolleyes.pnghttps://www.ridgidforum.com/core/ima...lies/smile.png

  • #2
    Re: What's a good finish for my first spray project?

    Personally, I suggest that people use lacquer to start learning. The reason is that it dries FAST. If you get a run or sag, it can be sanded out in about an hour. Dry time between successful coats is usually around 10 to 15 minutes in a warm shop.
    On the "floating panels", i'd recommend shooting a 1/2" pin top and bottom center on the back side of the panel where it fits into the styles. I angle them on the edge of the style so they don't show much at all. That will keep it in place and still let it expand crossgrain if need be.

    With most of the oil based poly's, the drying time is much longer and a small sag will end up running all the way to the floor before it firms up any.

    As far as the Harbor Freight sprayer, give it a go!!! I know guys that spray CARS with the HF spray guns!

    Mark
    Congratulations to Mr. "the sky is falling" Al Gore, nominated the new Village Idiot!

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    • #3
      Re: What's a good finish for my first spray project?

      Thanks for the help, Mark. A couple of other Q's, if you have time. The shop is not very warm. I can get it to 50 if I keep the heat on. Is that OK for laquer? Secondly, are you recommending that the pin be wedged between the panel and the stile or is it thru the panel at the stile/ panel and into the stile on the opposite side of the panel? I hope that's clear.
      TIA,
      Chiz
      Later,
      Chiz
      https://www.ridgidforum.com/core/ima...lies/frown.pnghttps://www.ridgidforum.com/core/ima...es/redface.pnghttps://www.ridgidforum.com/core/ima...s/rolleyes.pnghttps://www.ridgidforum.com/core/ima...lies/smile.png

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      • #4
        Re: What's a good finish for my first spray project?

        50 is cool but fine for lacquer. When you say "keep the heat on", is it a gas furnace in the garage? The fumes build up fast so make sure there are no flames from a heater or gas water heater going. Some ventalition will help keep you from choking! LOL

        The shop I used to work at drew in winter air all day, sometimes in the '30's. We wore jackets and gloves! You will need to thin it down more in cold weather to get it to automize (sp?) into small enough pieces. I usually cut my lacquer 25% for my airless and even more in conventional or HVLP gun. It will depend on how thick it is out of the can. Brands differ a lot too.

        The pin is like you said at the end. I angle the gun up AGAINST the style and shoot through the panel into the front side of the style. The angle is important so the pin does not come through your inside edge style detail. I also use a drop or two of glue in the center of the styles with I put in the panel. The wood doesn't expand with the grain, only across the grain.
        Last edited by The Wood Meister; 02-19-2007, 08:22 PM.
        Congratulations to Mr. "the sky is falling" Al Gore, nominated the new Village Idiot!

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