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New guy/ Fence question

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  • New guy/ Fence question

    I am new to woodworking. Last summer while painting our living room, we
    had to move a stuart sauder desk to paint the wall. Damn thing fell apart,
    and we only moved it two feet!!! Well since then I have spent a thousand plus bucks to buy the tools to build my own desk- out of WOOD. I am going to replace every piece of partical board crap that is in my house.

    About a month ago I started researching table saws (to replace my jet table
    top saw). Two weeks ago, I bought the TS3650, because of this fourm, and
    the independant woodworkers reviews, and the HD website reviews on this saw. 25 - 5 star ratings without one decending opinion.

    I have spent this two weeks preparing the saw to do some serious work. In
    addition I have spent a lot of time researching the safety issues. I have a
    lot of respect for this saw, and wish to keep my fingers, face, and important
    parts of mybody.

    It is important to me to make every cut as strait (jointer quality) as possiable. I have tuned the saw blade and the fence to .002-.003
    parallel. A freind at work tells me that I made a mistake - that I should
    have the fence taper out to .007 to .01 to avoid kick back. I would
    appericate any advice based on the fourms experience.


  • #2
    Re: New guy/ Fence question

    I think the fence does need to slightly pear away from the blade at the back. From what I've read, .003" difference between front of blade and rear is what's recommended. That's what I run, and it's been fine.

    The one place I've had problems is with the splitter behind the saw. It took me ages (and a lot of really straight tools, and some bad bad words) to get it straight and true to the blade. Getting it to line up front to back took a lot of doing...then I had to line it up in the vertical plane!!! Now it's straight, and locked in. I take it off for a few cuts, put it back and it stays straight and true. I really like the guard (read...I like my fingers and body parts), so I'll do what's needed to use it!!! I hope you've taken some time to get the splitter lined up properly. As long as the fence is just very slightly away from the back of the blade you'll be fine.

    Enjoy the saw!! It really is a wonderful and true device. Just a little care and work keeps it working great!
    I put it all back together better than before. There\'s lots of leftover parts.


    • #3
      Re: New guy/ Fence question

      I have read in here about having fence taper away also. I watched ole Norm on the New Yankee Workshop this past weekend. This show was table saw 101. He did not taper it set parallel to the blade. So I guess the jury is still out. Im my opinion if thats the way Norm does its good enough for me.
      SSG, U.S. Army
      K.I.S.S., R.T.F.M.


      • #4
        Re: New guy/ Fence question

        If you watch closely when Norm is making a cut on the TS and the camera angle is above the blade and fence you can see that the fence slightly tapers away from the workpiece by a couple thousandths, at least that is what I have noticed in numerous episodes.
        "It's a table saw, do you know where your fingers are?" Bob D. 2006


        1/20/2017 - The Beginning of a new Error


        • #5
          Re: New guy/ Fence question

          Parallel would be ok "IF" we could make it "perfectly parallel", but since we can't ensure that, most manufacturers suggest a very slight "toe out" to be safe. I toe mine out about the thickness of folded dollar bill to make sure that the piece never binds.


          • #6
            Re: New guy/ Fence question

            If you use your fence on both sides of the blade (as I do occasionally), the "toe out" for using it on the right side of the blade will become "toe in" and cause kickback if used on the left side. Therefore, I keep mine straight.
            If you do want to toe it out, I would recommend putting on an auxilary fence, and putting a small shim (.003 to .005) under the aux fence against the stock fence in the front. That keeps the other side parallel, or you can do the same for the other side of the fence, getting toe out for both sides. Use a good stable material for the aux fence. If it warps, it could cause a toe in situation.

            Practicing at practical wood working


            • #7

              It looks as thou everyone might agree that .003-.008 taper is the
              safest. Also you all may have seen table saw 101, which I missed. Well
              looks like I will be resetting the fence to where it was when I originally
              got it. Hopefully I will get to see part two of norms show this afternoon,
              and catch part one later in the reruns.



              • #8
                Re: New guy/ Fence question

                Hewood and GoFor gave all the advice that is needed.
                Joe Spear