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  • #16
    Re: Plywood dovetail drawers

    LOL.....Please! Don't let me corrupt you, Djb!
    Last edited by zenophus; 03-21-2007, 08:26 PM.
    “Make yourself an honest man, and then you may be sure that there is one less scoundrel in the world.” —Thomas Carlyle

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    • #17
      Re: Plywood dovetail drawers

      Finally got some of my pictures organized and found these two I was meaning to include in the post. The lock-joints worked out great BTW. The dovetails obviously did not.

      Zeno
      Attached Files
      “Make yourself an honest man, and then you may be sure that there is one less scoundrel in the world.” —Thomas Carlyle

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      • #18
        Re: Plywood dovetail drawers

        Ooooooo more goodies to buy!! Gee thanks, Zeno...my hubby is going to be so happy to hear this...

        Just as a question, on the plywood dovetails, did you use a backer board when making the cuts? I'm wondering if that would've stopped the tearout you experienced.
        I put it all back together better than before. There\'s lots of leftover parts.

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        • #19
          Re: Plywood dovetail drawers

          Sandy, I did not use a backer board, but as soon as I read that I got a big bruise on my forehead after I slapped it! I'm sure that would have worked. Even a little strip of 1/4" sandply would have prevented the tearout.

          Don't get me wrong....I usually use dovetails (they just LOOK better and they are stronger) but I had the 1/2" ply and:

          1. Didn't feel like making a 4 foot high pile of sawdust planing down poplar from 1" to 1/2".

          2. This particular project (a desk) did not call for fine drawer boxes.

          Also, a single coat of poly and some sand-rounding off of the top edge made the drawers look great. I was very pleased.

          Best Regards,
          Zeno
          “Make yourself an honest man, and then you may be sure that there is one less scoundrel in the world.” —Thomas Carlyle

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          • #20
            Re: Plywood dovetail drawers

            That does it, Zeno. I'm going shoppin'!
            Which miter lock joint bit (brand) did you get?

            - djb
            sigpic

            A Democracy is 2 wolves and 1 sheep voting on what to have for lunch.

            Restore the Republic.

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            • #21
              Re: Plywood dovetail drawers

              I Purchased the Rockler #22627 for 1/2" thick material. If you want to do 3/4" or larger go with the larger bit. Definitely get the set-up block....this is a tricky bit to set up without it. Enjoy!!

              Rockler Lock Miter Bit
              “Make yourself an honest man, and then you may be sure that there is one less scoundrel in the world.” —Thomas Carlyle

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              • #22
                Re: Plywood dovetail drawers

                Based on your experience Zeno I bought a lock-miter bit yesterday - Freud. According to the manual at the store the 99-034 bit works for material from as small as 1/2 in thick. My plan for the bit is to use it for making four piece quarter sawn white oak legs for a bed. I planned to play with it last night but a squirrel decided to play on the power lines and the entire neighborhood lost electricity. Oh well...

                A few posts back I mentioned to Iron Hat that I had seen instructions for using the bit that indicated the 45 degree miter be cut on a table saw before using the bit but couldn't remember where. I found it yesterday. On the Woodcraft site the Whiteside lock miter information indicates that you should cut the 45 first. I like the idea of cutting the 45 first but it seems to me, as Iron Hat said, that more material would be taken off when the bit is used. That would make for an extremely fussy set-up on the router table to try to get an exact length. I will try to take all the wood off in one pass as you have done and also try to cut the 45 first to see which seems to work best, read safest, on oak. I don't have any desire to have wood ripped from my hands as happened to Iron Hat.

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                • #23
                  Re: Plywood dovetail drawers

                  Tom,

                  Your correct about cutting the 45° first.....The drawer length or width will be different from your original specs by an eighth or so.

                  I am working on my second set of drawers and I came up with a solution to a problem I had with the first set....what happened was when cutting the long drawer sides on the vertical the board tended to drift back and forth (i.e. rocking along it's edge). If you are very careful this problem is reduced but not entirely eliminated. I built the pictured fence that has a perfectly flat surface on top (it was planed smooth on the jointer) with a little wax applied. The horizontal maple block rides along the surface with the work attached. The only thing I have to pay attention to now is keeping it flat against the fence. Much, much better. The follow board is to prevent tearout.

                  Also, I made permanent marks on my table surface to mark placement of the fence whenever I use this same material.
                  Attached Files
                  “Make yourself an honest man, and then you may be sure that there is one less scoundrel in the world.” —Thomas Carlyle

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                  • #24
                    Re: Plywood dovetail drawers

                    Zeno,

                    I have a jig I made up that I used to cut tennons and it looks similar to the one you made for your router table. I can build a tall fence and modify the jig to work with the router bit. As I looked at your jig I wondered if a toggle clamp in the middle of the follower board might help stabilize the workpiece, or do the spring clamps have enough pressure?

                    Tom

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                    • #25
                      Re: Plywood dovetail drawers

                      Originally posted by Tom W View Post
                      Zeno,

                      I have a jig I made up that I used to cut tennons and it looks similar to the one you made for your router table. I can build a tall fence and modify the jig to work with the router bit. As I looked at your jig I wondered if a toggle clamp in the middle of the follower board might help stabilize the workpiece, or do the spring clamps have enough pressure?

                      Tom
                      Tom,

                      Sorry for the delay......

                      1: I liked your idea of clamping the follow board. While I DO have a toggle clamp available (purchased for my buiscut joiner jig which I never finished ) I simply screwed the follow board to the maple block after your suggestion. I thought there might be tearout with this after the first cut but as long as the settings are exactly the same for each setup there should be no problem. The setup should only change between projects. Your idea made me think that if I could come up with a wrap around block at he top (that would keep the work piece stable) but I would have to move the upper stability fence to do it.

                      2. The spring clamps holding the work is PLENTY stable. It absolutely does not move while moving along the cut.
                      “Make yourself an honest man, and then you may be sure that there is one less scoundrel in the world.” —Thomas Carlyle

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                      • #26
                        Re: Plywood dovetail drawers

                        I have used plywood drawers for years. you can even cut them with one of those jigs they sell. one bit of advise is to score the top layer of ply on either side to prevent tear-out from occurring down the drawer side. learned that the hard way. i hope this helps.

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                        • #27
                          Re: Plywood dovetail drawers

                          Originally posted by zenophus View Post
                          I Purchased the Rockler #22627 for 1/2" thick material. If you want to do 3/4" or larger go with the larger bit. Definitely get the set-up block....this is a tricky bit to set up without it. Enjoy!!

                          Rockler Lock Miter Bit
                          I believe that I saw a set-up tip - shoot, can't recall the site - that said to cut the profile twice, making two fronts. Flip one over and see if they fit with both of the boards laying flat on the table. If yu have to raise one a bit just make the proper adjustment in height and cut them again. Now, if I'm totally off-base with this the I was typing in my sleep and I'm not responsible - LOL!
                          Later,
                          Chiz

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                          • #28
                            Re: Plywood dovetail drawers

                            Here's a great walkthrough on setting up these types of bits, where you cut one piece flat and the other verticial.

                            http://www.woodshopdemos.com/cmt-sop-1.htm

                            1/4" tempered hardboard is a great backerboard for doing plywood dovetails. I'd never heard of scoring the plywood, but that's a decent idea, too... although later staining might reveal the line a bit too much.

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