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Possible Problem Aligning Heel on 2424

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  • Possible Problem Aligning Heel on 2424

    All, I may have a problem, or it may be me. I have checked the heel on my TS2424 with a dial guage. The setup I use is the guage is attached to a piece of hardwood that then attaches to the miter guage. When I check the heel at first I am +/- .002 (2 thousandths) I then will raise the blade and check it again, and the number will change +/- .004. Now it could be that the setup that I use for my guage has some play in it that is causing the problem, or it could be that either the miter slot has a slight variance or that the heel really is changing as the blade height is changing. I place a small dot on the blade so I measure at the same spot on the blade, of course this does mean that my miter guage is at different place in the miter slot (thus a possible variance in the miter slot. Have any of you, or Jake ever seen this, or heard of it. I don't want to have to spend $70 - $100 for a TS Aligner to verify it if I can avoid it.

    -Rob
    -Rob<br /> <a href=\"http://home.comcast.net/~robritch/\" target=\"_blank\">http://home.comcast.net/~robritch/</a> <br />Damn, I hit the wrong nail again. Ouch that hurts

  • #2
    I would bet you a buck that the front trunnion is a bit torqued. I cannot recall if the front is a two-bolt or three-bolt mount. In either case, get the cradle more or less (more more than less) straight, loosen all but one bolt on the front trunnion. Then, just barely crack the last bolt to allow the trunnion to straighten itself out.

    Take an extra dose of patience before digging in to this. It is truly hard to get at the front bolts.

    Dave

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    • #3
      <BLOCKQUOTE>quote:</font><HR>Take an extra dose of patience before digging in to this. It is truly hard to get at the front bolts. <HR></BLOCKQUOTE>

      Dave,

      I know about the PITA that it is to get to the front trunion bolts. I found that it is much easier to get to them from underneath with a ratchet and a long extension. I have the dust chute on it, so I will have to remove it first. Thanks for the suggestion I will give that a try and see what happens

      -Rob
      -Rob<br /> <a href=\"http://home.comcast.net/~robritch/\" target=\"_blank\">http://home.comcast.net/~robritch/</a> <br />Damn, I hit the wrong nail again. Ouch that hurts

      Comment


      • #4
        RR,

        It is possible that your blade is changing the heel as you lower and raise the blade, altough it does not sound excessive. Is there a problem with your cut or cut quality? Drop me an email.

        Jake

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        • #5
          This may sound obvious, but it happened to me without really thinking about it until after the fact. Is is possible that the difference you are observing is due to the fact that the indicator, set at a fixed height, is simply measuring the deviation across a longer span when the blade is elevated? If the span is doubled, you would read twice the "runout" between front and rear. My (cheap) indicator used in the miter slot can be set to a minimum of about 3/4" above the table top (unless at an angle), which means for low blade exposure the span is only a few inches. Crank it up to 3-4" exposure and the span increases to several inches.

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          • #6
            Gary has a good point, it could be the runout in the blade that is showing up to a greater extent when the blade is all the way up.

            Jake

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            • #7
              You should always check the same tooth on the front and rear. This eliminates the possibility of blade or arbor runout showing a false difference.

              Dave

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              • #8
                All,

                wanted to update you all about this. Worked with Jake a little via e-mail, and all seems to be ok. Was having problems with some cuts in thicker stock that lead me to think there might be a problem. Went back and checked the fence alignment and found it was closed slightly so I readjusted it open .002. Also removed the stock splitter and buit a new one into a 0 clearance insert making sure that it is EXACTLY in line with the blade. Now get glue line rips in 5/4 hard maple with no problems. Jake and all of the others thanks for all of the help

                -Rob

                [img]smile.gif[/img]
                -Rob<br /> <a href=\"http://home.comcast.net/~robritch/\" target=\"_blank\">http://home.comcast.net/~robritch/</a> <br />Damn, I hit the wrong nail again. Ouch that hurts

                Comment


                • #9
                  <BLOCKQUOTE>quote:</font><HR>Originally posted by RRitch:
                  ...Also removed the stock splitter and buit a new one into a 0 clearance insert making sure that it is EXACTLY in line with the blade.<HR></BLOCKQUOTE>

                  RRitch,

                  You mind giving details on your new splitter?

                  I have a TS2400 and have thought about making one.

                  Bubba

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                  • #10
                    <BLOCKQUOTE>quote:</font><HR> You mind giving details on your new splitter? <HR></BLOCKQUOTE>

                    Bubba,

                    What I did was went and got a phenolic zero clearance insert (ones designed for Craftsmans TS will fit the 2424). After I cut the blade slot, I removed it and installed another insert, slipped the new one over the blade and moved the fence right up to it. I than took it and cut a slot on the back side of the insert. by slipping it over the blade and setting the fence it is perfectly in line with blade. I than cut a piece of hard maple to fit into the slot. I cut it a little thick so that it was a tight fit, so it had to be sanded after it was installed so it was NOT thicher than the blade. Hope this makes sense. Let me know if it does not and I will take a picture and send it to you. Here is an attampt at ascii art to give you an idea

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                    -Rob<br /> <a href=\"http://home.comcast.net/~robritch/\" target=\"_blank\">http://home.comcast.net/~robritch/</a> <br />Damn, I hit the wrong nail again. Ouch that hurts

                    Comment

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