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  • Question about the TS3650.

    I just got done w/ assembling my ts3650 and I've been trying to tweek it for accuracy. There is one thing that has stumped me. The fence is accurate(as far as distance) to the blade from about 9" and back(on the right side of the blade). But when it goes out farther it starts getting out of mesurement. It is 1/16" of an inch out at 36" away from the blade. Does anyone know what might cause this. I have assembled the saw per manual. I've put the washer shims where needed(the back rail and the metal spacer).

  • #2
    Re: Question about the TS3650.

    I think I understand your problem, I'm restating it here to be sure I have it right.

    Your fence is parallel to the blade when mounted to the right of the blade from zero to about 9" away from the blade. After this as the fence is moved further away from the blade the error increases until at 36" it is out of square about 1/16". Is this correct?

    You say you used the shims but are the front and rear rails parallel?

    Any chance the rails were bent? Was the rail box damaged in any way? Did the cardboard show signs of being bent (crease in the box where there normally would be none)?

    Are the wings aligned flush with the front of the table? And also for height with the table top? Either could rack the front rail and cause problems such as you describe I think.
    ---------------
    Light is faster than sound. That's why some people seem really bright until you hear them speak.
    ---------------
    “If I had my life to live over again, I'd be a plumber.” - Albert Einstein
    ---------
    "Its a table saw.... Do you know where your fingers are?"
    ---------
    sigpic http://www.helmetstohardhats.com/

    Comment


    • #3
      Re: Question about the TS3650.

      The saw(I don't think)is out of square w/ the fence past 9" but the measurement is off by 1/16" at the 36" mark on the front rail. It gradually starts at around 9" or 10" mark w/ 1/64"of an inch off and gets up to 1/16" off of the 36" measurement. When the fence is at 36" mark on the front rail I measure it w/ a tape measure and the measurement is 36 and 1/16", meaning to show a true 36 inches i would have to put the fence at 35 and 15/16" to show me 36" on my tape measure. Might be my tape measure but the measurement is accurate at 9" to 10" and lower?

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      • #4
        Re: Question about the TS3650.

        Sorry I didn't answer your questions. The wings are flush to the top of the main table and the I chose the box that seemed to not have any damage w/ the rails.

        Comment


        • #5
          Re: Question about the TS3650.

          Ok, I was way off it appears huh.

          I think a few other people have commented on this in the past. The error increases starting aroun 9" or 10" until there is about 1/16" error between the rule on the TS front rail and another rule which you use to verify the reading of the rule on the front rail.

          I don't put much faith in mine. Since I can't use the rule to measure anything other than the fence to blade distance it adds another variable into you layouts. I try ot use only one or two steel rules to measure everything in a project. If it's a larger project where distances go over 60" (my longest steel rule) then I use a steel tape that I keep and use only for layout work. For general measuring I use an older tape measure which is beat up a bit from being carried on the job.

          As far as the rule on the 3650, I use mine as a rough measure then set the fence to whatever distance I need using one of my layout rules.
          ---------------
          Light is faster than sound. That's why some people seem really bright until you hear them speak.
          ---------------
          “If I had my life to live over again, I'd be a plumber.” - Albert Einstein
          ---------
          "Its a table saw.... Do you know where your fingers are?"
          ---------
          sigpic http://www.helmetstohardhats.com/

          Comment


          • #6
            Re: Question about the TS3650.

            Man u think you put a substantial amount of money in a tool that got top honor rating in woodmagizine that it would be accurate. Thanks for the help.. Guess I'll have to use my tape measure for my longer cuts. Measure twice cut once!

            Comment


            • #7
              Re: Question about the TS3650.

              I asked the Q a while back when others had the same problem you have, but it never got an answer. I had asked if something had changed on the assembly line that might account for the error in the rule. Mine does not have it that I am aware of, but my TS is from 2003. This only showed up (based on threads posted on this forum) in the past year. Before that no one complained about this.
              ---------------
              Light is faster than sound. That's why some people seem really bright until you hear them speak.
              ---------------
              “If I had my life to live over again, I'd be a plumber.” - Albert Einstein
              ---------
              "Its a table saw.... Do you know where your fingers are?"
              ---------
              sigpic http://www.helmetstohardhats.com/

              Comment


              • #8
                Re: Question about the TS3650.

                Here is a real easy way to check and set your fence. (prividing your rails are straight! LOL)

                If you have a common framing square (if not, get one), just slide it up against the blade BODY or up against 2 like teeth, usually choose 2 that are pointing towards the fence. Either way, just make sure the square is not on alternating teeth. (one facing left, one right.)

                then just gently slide the fence up to the square and ck the gap. Adjust the fence as needed to get a "0" difference. You can then move the fence out to any distance and now use your tape measure from the fence to the closest and farthest points on the square for a more accurate measurement, instead of trying to measure off the blade.






                Mark
                Congratulations to Mr. "the sky is falling" Al Gore, nominated the new Village Idiot!

                Comment


                • #9
                  Re: Question about the TS3650.

                  Don't put your faith in the tape measure, either. Go to any store and get three different brands and compare them. They will also be different if you are making an "outside" or "inside" measurement. Best bet is to use the same measuring stick when working on related parts in any project. I use the fence ruler just to tweak a cut. Other than that I use the same aluminum rule/folding rule/tape measure/machinist scale for all related cuts.
                  Now that you know tape measures aren't reliable, have i mentioned squares and levels??

                  Go
                  Practicing at practical wood working

                  Comment


                  • #10
                    Re: Question about the TS3650.

                    Ok, so now I have to post how to check and re-set a square? LOL

                    I usually keep a 12" piece of material onhand to ck my tape from time to time. I first cut it by setting my fence to 12", then cut it, then take my tape and start at the 1" mark and measure it to make sure its right on. Then ck the tape against it with the hook end. One drop on the floor and the hook can get bent and bang, it's all off again. I've used about every tape out there and still keep coming back to the Stanley 25' tape. Seems to be pretty consistant.

                    Mark
                    Last edited by The Wood Meister; 04-01-2007, 10:32 PM.
                    Congratulations to Mr. "the sky is falling" Al Gore, nominated the new Village Idiot!

                    Comment


                    • #11
                      Re: Question about the TS3650.

                      I'll agree on the Stanley tapes. I have several of different lengths (16' to 30') of the Power Lock series (made in USA) that all agree. They all measure the same 1/64th long at "outside" and 1/64th short at "inside" against a machinist rule, but don't vary with the length. I checked a Stanley "Leverlock" (made off shore) several weeks ago and it was off 1/64 on the "inside" and 1/16th at the "outside", as well as was off 3/8ths at a 12' measurement against one of my others. The Fat Max agreed with the ones I have.
                      I bought a Johnson (whom I thought was pretty reliable) framing square about a year ago which was off 1/32" in 24". so I had to peen it in to adjust it. I also bought their 6" and 12" speed squares (aluminum), and the 6" is off a tad. The 4' level I bought is off 1/64th at 4'. but it's also not flat on the bottom, so I have to reverse it, and on shorter pieces is not reliable if going to a corner. I'll file it down and flatten it when I get a chance, but I am getting a bit disenchanted with the accuracy of "measuring" tools out there.
                      Used to be you could at least depend on a dollar bill being 6". Now they are closer to 6 1/8th. Looks like ya can't even trust the govmint anymore

                      Go
                      Practicing at practical wood working

                      Comment


                      • #12
                        Re: Question about the TS3650.

                        I use Stanley tapes also. On the table saw I use the orange marking pad in front of the throat. Mark on the left is a miter gauge cut and mark on the right is used to measuure against the fence for rip cuts. As long as fence is aligned correctly this seems to be the fastest measure for me. Tape on front is just for ballpark.

                        Comment


                        • #13
                          Re: Question about the TS3650.

                          Originally posted by Russell D View Post
                          I just got done w/ assembling my ts3650 and I've been trying to tweek it for accuracy. There is one thing that has stumped me. The fence is accurate(as far as distance) to the blade from about 9" and back(on the right side of the blade). But when it goes out farther it starts getting out of mesurement. It is 1/16" of an inch out at 36" away from the blade. Does anyone know what might cause this. I have assembled the saw per manual. I've put the washer shims where needed(the back rail and the metal spacer).
                          Make sure the top of the front rail is the same distance from the top of the saws table from one end to the other. If it is running up or down hill it will cause this.
                          SSG, U.S. Army
                          Retired
                          K.I.S.S., R.T.F.M.

                          Comment


                          • #14
                            Re: Question about the TS3650.

                            thanx,TOD, I'll check the top of the rail on both ends to make sure it is the same. I'm sure as I start working and trying to tweek other things on my new saw that I'll find that not all the angles,measurements, and ect. are not to the exact, as I've read on some of the posts on this site. Oh well, I guess you can't have everything, just somethings. At least it will,I'm sure work for the projects I do, Shelving,jigs,maybe some furniture in the future. I've been in the carpentry buisness for about 10yrs but just recently wanted to get into projects at home for myself and others. Eventually I want to have a nice woodshop wit nice tools. Thought that this saw would be a good investment. I watch Norm abram and think "Yeah I could build everything he builds too if I had the couple $100,000 of tools he has". Oh well, work wit what ya got.

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                            • #15
                              Re: Question about the TS3650.

                              Here's a suggestion for what it's worth. Setup your cut for 36", and measure the piece you have cut. That's the important measurement. I tested my saw this way. I setup for a 23" cut as I brought home a 24" calibrated vernier from work (I'm the boss, so I can do this). I cut the piece and measured it. It was .005" oversize. That's good for me. The point is, different tapes or rulers will give you a different reading, it's the final cut measurement that's important. When I'm building a project, I use the same setup for all pieces that length or width, so if your out a few thou., then they are all still the same and not likely to make a diffence when you put it all together. Wood movement will have more of an effect. A 1/16" of an inch (.0675") is quite a bit, and I would verify it with the above procedure. Then you will have a better idea just how much you need to adjust or correct.

                              Brian

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