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Zero clearance inserts

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  • #16
    Re: Zero clearance inserts

    I use 1/2 plywood or any material that measures exactly .500(bring some calipers with you.No leveling screws are required if the thickness is perfect.
    All I did is cut a blank to rough size and then used carpet tape(double sided)to fix the original insert onto the blank.Took it over to the router table with a flush trim bit and made a perfect profile.
    The only think left is to route off the thickness of the tab and drill and countersink one hole for the locking screw.
    Tip:MAKE A WHOLE LOT OF THEM WHILE YOUR SET-UP

    Have a nice day
    Marc

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    • #17
      Re: Zero clearance inserts

      I used some scrap laminate flooring glued to a piece of 1/8" hardboard to make it just the right thickness.
      Earl

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      • #18
        Re: Zero clearance inserts

        I just purchased a couple from Peachtree wood working supply. Makes a diffrence in the cuts and makes cutting smaller items safer.

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        • #19
          Re: Zero clearance inserts

          Originally posted by jedc43 View Post
          I use 1/2 plywood or any material that measures exactly .500(bring some calipers with you.No leveling screws are required if the thickness is perfect.

          I didn't have access to 1/2" mdf at the time, and setting the rabbet up lets me get pretty precise as well. I think the key is once you get set up, go ahead and make a bunch. I have two unused blanks sitting around that I will probably use for 1/4" and 1/2" dado setups, the next time I use those.

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          • #20
            Re: Zero clearance inserts

            Since my throw-back incident when I hurt my fingers I am a little skittish about raising the blade through my ZCIs. I put a piece of wood across the uncut, new ZCI and clamp it to the table before raising the blade. I have never had a problem with the blade throwing one at me and don't want one. In a pinch when I use a dado blade and no ZCI I clamp a piece of 1/4" hardboard to the table and raise the blade through it. That works pretty well also.

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            • #21
              Re: Zero clearance inserts

              The Melamine board that I have is slightly thicker. Is it okay to remove melamine in a planer?

              Thanks,
              Phil

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              • #22
                Re: Zero clearance inserts

                I wouldn't hazard it, personally. The melamine will chip too bad. Even if it didn't mess up the blades (which I think it could), it won't plane properly. You may be able to sand it to size, but the surface would probably be pretty rough.

                Typically melamine is a thin laminate product, or am I thinking of something else? You may be able to sand the back side of whatever it's adhered to. If it's plywood, you may not be able to sand enough without disturbing the internal layers. If it's plywood, you could try to plane the backside, but be aware the internal layers may end up chipping out in the planer.
                I put it all back together better than before. There\'s lots of leftover parts.

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                • #23
                  Re: Zero clearance inserts

                  Phil, For the 3650, all you need to thin down is the front and back ends on the bottom side. I would use a sander, but wear at least a dust mask and preferably sand it outside. From the recent news on pet food, I would venture that melamine dust is not a good thing for a mammal to ingest in any way. If it is really close, cut it first and try it. You my not need to sand anything. The 3/4" melamine coated stuff I have actually is a little less than 3/4 once you get past the coated edge.

                  Go
                  Practicing at practical wood working

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