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Mortise and Tenon with a Router

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  • Mortise and Tenon with a Router

    Hi all,

    I've been doing mortise/tenon by drilling the mortise and squaring them joined to a tenon cut on my 2424. But I seem to rember seeing a commercial jig for a plunge router that you could use to make the M/T (only with rounded corners. Does anyone have any knowledge of such a jig/system?

    Thanks as always,

  • #2

    I have seen this jig talked about in many places. I have not used it, but I have heard good things.

    Quick Tenon



    • #3
      I have one, if I can get the dust off of it, I would gladly sell it to you (actually mine is a Craftsman).

      It does make real clean mortise and tenons, my problems are in the set up (takes some time) and that most cuts with the router take several passes in order to avoid breaking the bit.

      The other thing I did not like, and maybe it's only because I never got fully used to it, was that the set up was not all that intuitive. With the drill press and table saw you mark the wood and cut where you mark.

      Having used both, I am staying with table saw cut tenons and drill press mortises.

      [ 04-22-2002: Message edited by: Jerry Jensen ]

      [ 04-24-2002: Message edited by: Jerry Jensen ]


      • #4
        I don't think anything beats the table saw for tenons.

        Mortising is another story. I've made somewhere between half a dozen and a dozen mortising jigs for my router. None were really satisfactory, and now I simply lay out the mortise and use a Forstner bit in the drill press, for which I've put together a simple but effective mortising fence. Yes, you have to square up the mortises with a chisel, but (A) you have to do that anyhow and (B) I'm getting good at it.

        Some day I'll spring for a dedicated mortising machine.


        • #5
          Thanks to everyone....

          RGad, can you describe the fence and it's use?



          • #6
            I hate to glorify something so simple.

            First, lay out the mortise. I use a center line, which will catch the little point in the center of the Forstner bit.

            Second, put the stock on the table, and with the DP off, lower the bit so that the little point bites into the stock on the center line.

            Third, put a spring clamp on the stock and table to keep if from moving.

            Fourth, take a piece of scrap, line it up against the back of the stock, and firmly clamp it to the DP table with some C-clamps.

            Fifth, take another piece of scrap and lightly line it up with the front of the stock (so that the stock will slide), and clamp it to the DP table with some C-clamps.

            Now, once you've adjusted the depth of cut, you just slide your stock into the gap between the two fences and carefully cut the left and right holes. Then it is pretty easy to cut away the waste between the holes, with one hand on the DP lever and the other on the stock. For all the mortises other than the first, you only need the start and stop lines, as the centering of the bit is done by the fence.

            Not elegant; Norm would not approve. But it cost $0 and it works.


            • #7
              Hey guys,
              Don't forget that there is an alternative to squaring up those mortises you make on the drill press with a chisel...rounding over the tenons. This is fairly easy to do using a chisel or even a razor knife and you can sneak up on the perfect fit. I think its easier to sneak up on the tenon than it is to do so on the mortise.

              Just another way to skin the ol' cat!

              Hope that helps!
              - Tim