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arbor replacement instructions?

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  • arbor replacement instructions?

    I know I have seen a couple of replacement narratives in the threads for the 3650 arbor problem. Is Ridgid sending instructions on how to do the replacement with the part?

    For the most part it seems pretty straight forward. But before I go to do things like this I like to make sure I have all the info available before proceeding.

    This may sound stupid but does the entire arbor housing come off during this procedure? And how exactly is the key (part 53 in the exploded view) come off? Just pull right off?

    I have not taken the machine apart yet so I have not had a very good chance to get a first hand look at all the parts.

    Any help would be greatly appreciated.

    And thanks to everyone that pressured Ridgid into getting this fixed so quickly! Well... quickly from my perspective (I have only had the saw for about two weeks).

  • #2
    I hope this works Doc

    Member Rated:
    posted 01-04-2005 02:41 PM
    OK---here's the method to replace the entire arbor assembly---which I would hope is what they're sending out. Personally, I don't have the know-how or tools to replace bearings, so this is what I did. Feel free to use and modify to fit any particular quirks of the 3650---from what I could see in the drawings, it's pretty similar to my old Craftsman.

    Good luck

    Arbor Assembly Replacement

    Part of this information is from Gary Mc, who used to hang out over on Woodnet, and part is what I learned from replacing the arbor. Remember this was on a Craftsman saw, but there appear to be a lot of similarities between the designs.

    These are more like hints than specific directions and may save you some time.

    Before you disconnect the saw, you’ll need to cut some cribbing----a couple of 2x4s or the like that can sit on the lips of the case, underneath the saw. The saw assembly is heavy and you have to handle it at an awkward angle. You might also see if you have some scrap to place across the cribbing, to almost touch the bottom of the saw yoke (wedges)---you’ll see why later.

    Also, be sure to study the parts/assembly diagram for this part of the saw, so you know how things go together.

    Label or tape all your parts in proper orientation. There are some retaining rings and sprung washers that must go back in the same way they came out.

    First, I did this work with the saw assembly out of the table. It’s much easier and involves less skinned knuckles.

    Remove the motor and yoke in one assembly after taking off the belt.

    It’s best to crank blade as low as it can go. Remove the blade, and DC shroud.

    Remove the tilt and height shaft handles and locking lever.

    If you can see where the bevel pointer screws on—take it off otherwise bend it up slightly to clear the slot opening. The bevel shaft has an attachment to the cabinet that must be removed.

    Start to loosen your entire front and rear trunion bolts. Sometimes the front trunion bolts are easier to reach by reaching under the front of the saw cabinet.

    Install your cribbing so you don’t drop the saw assembly. You want the front trunion loose but still in place.

    Take off the rear trunion, while holding on to the rear of the saw assembly----reach in and slide the front tab of the assembly out of the front trunion.

    You should have some scrap wood, sheet goods on top of the saw table and place the assembly on top----Be careful not to bend the bevel shaft until you can separate it from the assembly.

    You access the arbor assembly from the left side (as you stand at the front of the saw). Lay it on it’s right---you might want to take a couple of pictures.

    Make reference marks with a Sharpie pen or the like, of how the arbor assembly is set relative to the saw assembly.

    Start to remove fasteners that hold the assembly in place---be sure to note the orientation, particularly any “e” or spring washers you find---these are critical.

    Take the time to clean and lubricate the points----I used graphite, and know everyone has their favorites.

    Before re-assembling, take a close look at the two arbor assemblies----if the new one has protrusions along the edge, this could affect the travel of the saw blade (raising/lowering). A little filing on any “nubs” will save time later.

    Re-assemble, taking your time and referring to any pictures, drawings you’ve used. You may have to turn the height shaft while pressing the arbor assembly down to get it to lock in to the gear---that’s why pictures help to see how it fit before. Remember your orientation marks.

    Now, before replacing the saw assembly, if you want, with all the guts out of the saw, now’s a good time to check table flatness and do any cleaning with solvent, Simple Green, etc.

    Also---now is a great time to check the flatness of the trunion feet and where they meet up with the underside of the saw---any little defect or nub can drive you nuts when tightening the bolts and the alignment moves on you. I used a sanding block on the underside of the saw and a piece of sandpaper on the top of the table and moved the trunions back and forth to flatten their feet.

    Re-assemble with the front trunion in place, but kind of loose----rear trunion and parts within easy reach of the rear of the saw.

    You might want to have someone give you a hand----before you install the rear trunion, you have to get the bevel and height adjustment shafts into place, at the same time the front of the saw assembly is slid into the front trunion.

    Once you have this, it helps to use some blocks or wedges against the cribbing to help support the assembly while you place on the rear trunion (with the rear of the saw assembly in the slot), as you are trying to find the boltholes.

    Leave all the trunion bolts finger tight and re-assembly the shafts and wheels and check that they move freely. Trunions should be as tight as possible—but just able to be moved my hand slightly.

    Re-assembly the motor mount, align pulleys before you attempt re-aligning the saw blade---install shroud and a good flat blade.

    You should still be able to move the trunions by hand----do a rough alignment of the blade parallel to the slot---also be sure that the blade clears the insert opening---adjust as needed---

    Then, alternating tightening trunion bolts---

    If you run into one of those situations where you can’t get good alignment with just the rear trunion---remember, if you have the front loosened, leave the bevel lock, locked and nudge the bevel wheel, which will then move the front trunion----much easier than trying to move it by hand.

    Then, once aligned with the table---you’ll have to re-check your bevel stops, etc., re-check pulley alignment.

    Before powering up, just move the blade by hand to be sure it’s not restricted.

    Start making sawdust.

    This is pretty much on the money doc
    Good luck,
    Just my opinion