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  • TS3650 alignment at full bevel

    New member here. I aligned my blade to the table after setting up the saw (anyone else have trunion bolts barely tightened from the factory?) When the blade is vertical my alignment is perfect. When I tilt the blade to 45 degrees my blade is out of alignment about 0.008. All bolts are tight and nothing is binding. Does anyone have any ideas on how to solve this? I was going to split the difference but I would like to have it right on in both planes.

  • #2
    Re: TS3650 alignment at full bevel

    If doubt if there is any fix for this situation that will give you perfect alignment at both 90° and 45° settings. That being said, I'm not so sure you should worry about it being off by 0.008" at the 45° setting.
    Teach your kids about taxes..........eat 30 percent of their ice cream.

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    • #3
      Re: TS3650 alignment at full bevel

      maybe try a better blade, the one that comes with the saw is not that great

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      • #4
        Re: TS3650 alignment at full bevel

        Thanks for the replies. I have another (competing brand) saw I use for dado work that is good in both planes. I'll just swap their functions. I assumed there would be no easy fix. I was curious, more than anything else, if anyone else has this problem.

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        • #5
          Re: TS3650 alignment at full bevel

          Is it .008 to close or to far? If its too close you can remove the whole trunion assembly and place sims between it and the table. This will lower the pivot axis which will make the bevel wider then what it is now, but maintain you alignment at 90 degrees. If its to far then you really dont have any options except to machine the mounting holes surface to allow the trunion to sit closer to the table which would raise the pivot axis. I know not an easy fix by any means, but it is possible.

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          • #6
            Re: TS3650 alignment at full bevel

            Hacker
            The problem is either the trunions are not parallel to each other or the actual casting that runs between them is warped.

            If the trunions are in the same plane but not parallel the blade will be right on at one point in the trunion arc and off at another.

            This has been bain of contractors saws for years because people thought the trunions moved as you cranked in bevel but that is not the case. The trunions have to be exactly parallel to each other and they have to be adjusted so they hold the blade parallel to the fence. There are actually two adjustments first parallel to each other is rarely if ever mentioned.

            If your saw is perfect at 90 degrees lock the center bolt down fairly tight then using a rule or story stick move the trunions so they are parallel to each other without effecting the blade perfect alignment.

            What would be perfect is if you could make the front trunion exactly 90 degrees to the mitre slot then adjust the rear keeping parallel to front and keeping the blade at parallel to the fence.

            The trunions must be in the same plane, parallel to each other and holding the blade parallel to the fence.

            Picture it this way

            Front trunion blade rear trunion

            |---------X--------| perfect the way it should be

            _______________________________ fence



            Trunion blade trunion

            |--------x---------------\ trunions are not parallel
            ________________________________ Fence



            Trunion blade trunion
            |-------------x______________
            trunion is not in the same plane |
            __________________________________


            In the first example everything is correct and perfect.

            In the second the trunions are not parallel, this usually causes binding but can also cause heeling (blade not parallel to fence when adjusted to bevel)

            In the last case the trunions are not on the same plane, this usually causes heeling where the blade moved in and out of parallel as it bevel is cranked in and out.

            Incidently cabinet saws can have this same problem and in many cases it is worst but nobody talks about it.
            Rev Ed

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            • #7
              Re: TS3650 alignment at full bevel

              Incidently cabinet saws can have this same problem and in many cases it is worst but nobody talks about it.
              I think thats because it seems that most people think thier far more superior because they have a cabinent saw vs us contractor owners. They dont need anything to rain on their parade.

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              • #8
                Re: TS3650 alignment at full bevel

                RevEd,
                I thought it also might be the weight of the motor pulling sideways on the back of the trunion when its at a bevel. I think I understand what you are saying. Sounds like it would be tough to remedy in any case.
                Thanks to all for the info.

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                • #9
                  Re: TS3650 alignment at full bevel

                  Hacker, is it possible you have the micro-adjust lever on the rear trunnion maxed out in either direction? If so, the blade drive assembly may be binding at full bevel. IF this is the case, see if you can get the blade aligned at 90 degrees with the micro lever somewhat close to center (this would mean slightly tapping the front or rear trunnion over to get them closer to true alignment before using the micro lever for the final fine adjustment). While looking at it, make sure you don't see any trash between the trunnions and the table top in the trunnion bolt locations. Its possible there was a chip, etc, caught under one of them during assy.

                  Just a thought

                  Go
                  Practicing at practical wood working

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                  • #10
                    Re: TS3650 alignment at full bevel

                    Originally posted by hacker View Post
                    RevEd,
                    I thought it also might be the weight of the motor pulling sideways on the back of the trunion when its at a bevel. I think I understand what you are saying. Sounds like it would be tough to remedy in any case.
                    Thanks to all for the info.
                    Hacker
                    The motor is designed into the system and isn't the problem. Actually if you think about how the pieces relate to each other you can adjust them fairly easily and once you do you should never have to do it again. That is the beauty of having trunions mounted on the table once they are adjusted and locked down there is nothing to throw them out of wack.

                    Unlike cabinet saws where a good hit on the side of the table can change this adjustment contractors saws were made to be bumped around and moved. That is why they mounted the trunions to the table so in effect they become one piece with table.

                    Again take your time inspect everything and make sure there is no foreign objects like shavings or anything messing up your adjustments. Before you loosen the front trunions check the rear to make sure it is in the same plane, and parallel with the front and not adjusted to the end of it's adjustment. If all is right then adjust on the rear to align the blade parallel and try cranking in the bevel and see if blade fence relationship changes.

                    If it does try cranking in bevel while watching from beneath to see if you can see where the blade carriage is shifting.

                    If the trunions are in the same plane and parallel blade should stay parallel to the fence as you crank in bevel.

                    If you can't see a problem but the blade and fence parallelism is lost as you crank bevel and you just bought the saw I would trade it for another one.
                    Rev Ed

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