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Removing glued trim

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  • Removing glued trim

    I have a headboard that is made of pressed wood but has a solid wood curved cap on the top. What is a good way to remove the cap. I want to build the headboard out of 3/4 oak ply and reuse the original trim. Also, do they make oak ply with the grain that runs the width of the shee and not the leangth?
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  • #2
    Re: Removing glued trim

    If the curved cap is glued to the headboard one solution would be to rough cut the cap away from the headboard with a jigsaw. Then you'd have to sand away the headboard portion until you get down to the solid wood.

    As far as the ply is concerned, why not just cut a normal piece in half, rotate the pieces a ¼ turn then glue them back up again.
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    • #3
      Re: Removing glued trim

      For the ply grain issue, I know that when refacing cabinet peninsula and island backs that are wider than 48" we have to have a seam. We can only get the ply from our supplier with grain running lengthwise. If you choose carefully and depending on thew finish you can make the seam all but invisible. Good luck.
      A good carpenter makes few mistakes, a great carpenter can fix his own.

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      • #4
        Re: Removing glued trim

        Thanks for the ideas, the cap is dadoed onto the headboard. So cutting with a saw then I could take a router and clean up the dado. I'll give it a try unless someone else has a better idea.
        Please check out my web page
        www.woodandwax.net

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        • #5
          Re: Removing glued trim

          Try heat first, it may soften the adhesive and allow you to pull it off. A heat gun would be best, but if the molding is flat, an iron with a damp rag under it may work also.

          Can't help with the sideways grain ply, unless you have a veneer supplier near you. They may have oversized sheets. I have had fair luck making a "tongue & groove" type joint and edge gluing. Getting a reasonable grain match or bookmatch effect is the hard part. You can get Baltic birch ply in 5 x 5 sheets which may be just wide enough for a queen-sized bed, depending on your design, but then you still have to seam the veneer for an oak grain surface.

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          Last edited by Gofor; 05-07-2007, 08:34 PM.
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