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  • BS blade tightening shaft stripped

    Has this happened to any of you? I got my new Timber Wolf BS blades in today and when I put one on, the threads on the tighening shaft stripped. How in the heck can this happen on a Ridgid saw thats only 2 months old? I could see it if it was something you put a wrench on, but not on something thats hand tightened. It took hours to get the shaft off. I had to tilt and spin the top wheel just to get the blade to pop off. That was fun. Sort of like having a basket of snakes thrown at ya. The nut on the shaft stripped half way up. I had to use visegrips on the shaft to turn it off. When I finally got it out, the threads where all chewed up (not to mention the shaft from the visegrips) And "no", it's not because I was thightening it too much. I alway go by the scale on the back. I'm going to try and use a fully threaded shaft and make a handle on top. I remember some where in a wood mag. it told how to make a new handle for easy turning. Any suggestions on this (and yes ANY suggestions) whould be very greatfull.

  • #2
    Re: BS blade tightening shaft stripped

    I believe Joe Iturra carries a heavier threaded shaft for these macines. You'll have to do a search for his phone #. I'm at work and don't have it handy. You could also buy a shaft and nut from www.use-enco.com and doa search for Acme + rod. I just did this a couple of nights ago ane they do NOT carry a square nut as is stock in these machines. However, I think that the hex nut will require filing to make it fit and that will increase the bearing surface on those two sides. BTW, When you call Joe (no website) just go ahead and order what you want. I've been waiting for a catalog for 6 or 7 weeks - called a month into the wait and requested another and still nthing. I'm just going to call for the rod and a couple blades.

    Later,
    Chiz
    Later,
    Chiz

    Comment


    • #3
      Re: BS blade tightening shaft stripped

      I had something similar happen to my old BS as well. I just went to the hardware store and bought some threaded rod and made my own for a couple-o-bucks. It worked fine for years. I sold it a while ago, but I know that it's still working fine because I know the guy that bought it.
      "Semper Fi"
      "A man who farts in church sits in own pew"

      Comment


      • #4
        Re: BS blade tightening shaft stripped

        Scrambler is right on about pricing. The ACME thread which I noted is a 'faster' thread but it's also a stronger one because of the thickness of each individual thread, having a flat crest, or top. Durability?? Beats me but it won't cost you much if the hardware store's threaded rod fails you. Good cost-cutting suggestion, Scrambler.

        Later,
        Chiz
        Later,
        Chiz

        Comment


        • #5
          Re: BS blade tightening shaft stripped

          Highland woodworking has a replacement tension handle that is a crank. It comes with the nut and rod and fits the Ridgid. I have one on my BS14002 and it works well. I think I paid $29
          Attached Files

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          • #6
            Re: BS blade tightening shaft stripped

            Thanks for the advise guys. My next day is Tue. so I have a few days to either order a new one or just by a threaded shaft and make my handle. I sure did like the cranke handle though.
            It's the only good reason of working nights, I can think of ways to make it STRONGER, FASTER, THE SIX MILLION DOLLAR BANDSAW.

            Comment


            • #7
              Re: BS blade tightening shaft stripped

              I made my own crank handle out of plywood and a 1" dowel when I did the threaded rod replacement. :-)
              "Semper Fi"
              "A man who farts in church sits in own pew"

              Comment


              • #8
                Re: BS blade tightening shaft stripped

                I went ahead and bought a threaded rod and I made the handle from a oak replacement handle for a hammer. I think the total was about $10-12. I went and talked to the cutting guy at the machine shop and he didnt have the harder threaded rod in stock, but did have the stainless steel which is suppose to be stronger than the plated one at Lowes. I did find out some good news though. He has steel bar that has the "key" groove running down it to replace the one that did not fit (too small) with the Grizzly riser kit. I had made my own, but it don't have the groove in to keep it alligned correctly. Every time I readjust the cutting height, I have to make sure it's centered between the guide blocks. So I think this Jar Head may be back up and running.

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