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  • 12" Compound Mitre Saw - Dados?

    I have recently purchased a 12" Compound Sliding Mitre Saw (MS1290LZ1). I want to cut Dados with the saw so I also purchased a set of Dado blades (Freud). The Dado kit I bought fits the arbor but there is not enough length on the arbor to get all of the dado blades on the arbor that I need (I am trying for a 3/4" dado). Can you buy a longer Arbor? Any suggestions for how to overcome this issue??

  • #2
    Re: 12" Compound Mitre Saw - Dados?

    It's a miter saw, not a radial arm saw. They limited the arbor length for a reason. The weight of a dado blade is too much for a miter saw to handle safely - it's too much moving mass on the machine.

    Any suggestions for how to overcome this issue??
    Yeah, buy a radial arm saw, or use a table saw, or a router...

    Comment


    • #3
      Re: 12" Compound Mitre Saw - Dados?

      Originally posted by Newman View Post
      Yeah, buy a radial arm saw, or use a table saw, or a router...

      And to add, just don't buy any cheap little direct drive table saw, as the arbor will probably be to short aswell for the 3/4" dado you are wanting to do. However, I am assuming that you don't already have a table saw.

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      • #4
        Re: 12" Compound Mitre Saw - Dados?

        Not so sure if I would want to try a Dado blade set on a radial arm saw. I recommend them only on a good table saw. The router may be an idea depending on your needs.

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        • #5
          Re: 12" Compound Mitre Saw - Dados?

          Originally posted by Woussko View Post
          Not so sure if I would want to try a Dado blade set on a radial arm saw. I recommend them only on a good table saw. The router may be an idea depending on your needs.
          Woussko I've watched Norm use dado's on thr radial arm quite a few times over the years so I think it is feesable but I'm like you I would rather do it on a good table saw myself.

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          • #6
            Re: 12" Compound Mitre Saw - Dados?

            Yes Norm does it. I've used an 8" dial-a-dado on an old 12" DeWalt RAS, and it works fine.

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            • #7
              Re: 12" Compound Mitre Saw - Dados?

              I've used all kinds of dado sets (stacked and dial) on all kinds of RAS's for years. Quite safe (Sorry Woussko )

              In fact over in Europe it's against the law for professionals to use dado blades on tablesaws. RAS only
              Cheers! - Jim
              -------------
              All truth passes through three stages: First it is ridiculed. Second, it is violently opposed. Third, it is accepted as being self-evident. - Schopenhauer

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              • #8
                Re: 12" Compound Mitre Saw - Dados?

                Originally posted by Woussko View Post
                Not so sure if I would want to try a Dado blade set on a radial arm saw. I recommend them only on a good table saw. The router may be an idea depending on your needs.
                I've had no problem running a dado set on my 10" RAS, I've done it many times over the years. It has been handy to have the dado blade in the RAS leaving the TS free for ripping and other duties. Since I also have a 12" SCMS that is what I do now a days with my RAS. I can dado up to 18" wide w/o a problem, great for shelving and such.

                In the past I thought about selling the RAS from time to time to reclaim the space in the shop for other tools. But I realized that for what it would bring (being 20+ years old but still in great shape) dollar-wise it was better to hang on to it. I've got a decent dust collection setup on it and have upgraded the guard under the RAS Recall program so it is as good as new basically. A little cleaning of the carriage tracks, lubrication where called for in the manual, and realignment saw to that.

                In a round-about way you can dado using your SCMS to make dados if it has a depth setting. Not sure about the RIDGID SCMS but my DW-708 has this. it is defiantly not as easy as a dado blade in a TS or RAS, but for occasional use it can work. It will only work up to the MAX crosscut capability of your SCMS, so for most saws this will limit you to about 12".
                • Engage the depth stop and adjust to the desired depth of cut.
                • Mark the beginning and end of your dado on the workpiece and clearly mark the waste portion of the cut.
                • Position the workpiece under the blade and align so the blade falls to the inside (waste side) of the line.
                • Pull the blade through the workpiece in a steady, controlled cut.
                • Re-position for the opposite side of the dado and repeat the cut, making sure you have the blade to the inside of the dado as you should now be aligning with the other side of the blade.
                • Now you have defined the edges of your dado, go back and nibble away at the remainder.
                You'll most likely need to clean the bottom of the dado up a bit with a chisel.
                This method is only suited for somewhat rough dado cuts and when a router is not available. Works good for building a bench from 2x lumber and other such course construction. It's not a good choice for fine work like furniture but I guess with careful layout it could be done.
                ---------------
                Light is faster than sound. That's why some people seem really bright until you hear them speak.
                ---------------
                “If I had my life to live over again, I'd be a plumber.” - Albert Einstein
                ---------
                "Its a table saw.... Do you know where your fingers are?"
                ---------
                sigpic http://www.helmetstohardhats.com/

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                • #9
                  Re: 12" Compound Mitre Saw - Dados?

                  I am new to this so bear with me. What I am attempting to do is cut a dado on the shoulder of a turned leg so that I can insert a bottom shelf between my four legs on a table. I have a buddy that used a RAS and a jig that held the shoulder of the leg in the right position for the cut of the dado. Unfortunately I went out and bought the wrong saw (compund mitre saw), lessons learned.

                  I do have a table saw but I can not figure out how to cut the dado on the shoulder like I need for all four legs. If someone can explain that to me I might be on my way.....

                  Any thoughts?

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                  • #10
                    Re: 12" Compound Mitre Saw - Dados?

                    Are the legs round all the way up, or is there a squared section at the top where the leg joins the table? If yes then cut yourself a square of plywood the same size as the top of the leg and fasten it (short screw or nail) to the bottom of the leg so that when the leg is laid on its side on the table top it will be level. Now you can adjust you blade (don't really have to use a dado) to the correct height. The leg will not roll since it has the flat surface at the top of the leg resting on the TS. Use your fence with a stop block positioned in front of the blade far enough that the workpiece will NOT be in contact with the stop block or fence when cutting, and use you miter gage with extended fence to guide the leg during the cut. This will give you the same height for all four legs.

                    If the legs do not have a squared top section it might be possible to do the same but fix a second block to the top of the leg. You would need to make this one solid so that the leg can not roll as it could with just a single nail driven in the end grain of the leg, if I am making this anywhere near intelligible.

                    Buying the SCMS as opposed to the RAS is not a bad move. If you have a TS the SCMS is probably the better of the two to be your second saw. If you have the room and budget supports it grab a used RAS in good shape for $150 or less at a yard sale or from the classified ads in the paper. The older Craftsman RAS were made by Emerson and are as good as most any you'll come across in the under $700 price range. Go to www.radialarmsawrecall.com and read up on the recall information. Make sure if you get a used RAS that it is one that is covered by the recall, then if it has not already been upgraded you can use that to negotiate a lower price. When you get it home go back to the site and enter the serial number and model and apply for the upgraded guard kit for your new (used) RAS. When it arrives in about 10 to 14 days and you install the upgrade parts you'll have a RAS that is close to new from an operability standpoint provided you started with one in decent shape.

                    There are probably hundreds of RASs sitting in peoples basements or garages just dying to be put to work. There is no reason that everyone on this forum could not have a decent RAS for less than $200 if they did a little looking around and made a few phone calls. Some people on this forum prefer to use a RAS over a TS, but most will tell you it is a great choice for a second saw in the shop. Well, maybe third after a good bandsaw.
                    Last edited by Bob D.; 05-21-2007, 08:40 PM. Reason: fixed some typos
                    ---------------
                    Light is faster than sound. That's why some people seem really bright until you hear them speak.
                    ---------------
                    “If I had my life to live over again, I'd be a plumber.” - Albert Einstein
                    ---------
                    "Its a table saw.... Do you know where your fingers are?"
                    ---------
                    sigpic http://www.helmetstohardhats.com/

                    Comment


                    • #11
                      Re: 12" Compound Mitre Saw - Dados?

                      A pic of the table would help. If you are putting a shelf in that will be contained within the four legs of the table, one method is to cut the corners of the shelf where they insert into the legs at a 45 degree angle. If the legs are round all the way to the top and square to the top, what Bob D said is the way to go. If they are square at the top, you will have to build a jig that holds the square part at 45 degrees to the table saw (or Ras, or SCMS) and supports the leg so that the shelf will be parallel to the top. If the legs are not straight up and down, you must also duplicate the top angle on the dado, which will involve some length/drop calculations in the holding jig. It is really not as complicated as it sounds, but need more info, and preferably a picture of the table as it is now.

                      Go
                      Practicing at practical wood working

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                      • #12
                        Re: 12" Compound Mitre Saw - Dados?

                        The one thing I don't like about a RAS is the dust control - or rather the lack of...

                        Comment


                        • #13
                          Re: 12" Compound Mitre Saw - Dados?

                          Originally posted by Newman View Post
                          The one thing I don't like about a RAS is the dust control - or rather the lack of...
                          That can be dealt with. I have mine fairly well setup now. I just open a gate to the DC and I have a 1.5" hose that draws from the guard and a 2.5" hose that is connected to a hood located behind the blade. Picks up better than 90% of the sawdust.



                          Don't be scared, I'm not about to cut my TS-3650 blade guard in half as it may appear in the photo. That is just where I laid it down when using the tenoning jig.
                          ---------------
                          Light is faster than sound. That's why some people seem really bright until you hear them speak.
                          ---------------
                          “If I had my life to live over again, I'd be a plumber.” - Albert Einstein
                          ---------
                          "Its a table saw.... Do you know where your fingers are?"
                          ---------
                          sigpic http://www.helmetstohardhats.com/

                          Comment


                          • #14
                            Re: 12" Compound Mitre Saw - Dados?

                            Once again this could be a cheaper and faster solution If you don't have the power tool to do the job, Japanese hand saw and a sharp chisel. I would be done with that job in 30 minutes. I just love those Jap. saws, sharp and clean cuts.
                            Great Link for a Construction Owner/Tradesmen, and just say Garager sent you....

                            http://www.contractorspub.com

                            A good climbing rope will last you 3 to 5 years, a bad climbing rope will last you a life time !!!

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