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How to straighten spreader on a TS2400?

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  • How to straighten spreader on a TS2400?

    I am new to woodworking (watch a lot of New Yankee workshop, but only now has the space for some woodworking tools) and recently purchased a Ridgid TS2400 TS used but in very good condition. My first project with the TS were closet organizers for two reach-in closets in the house. I started with 1/2" birch plywood and modeled the organizers loosely after pictures I see on the advertisements I get in the mail. I'm happy with the organizers, but the ripped pieces of playwoods are skewing to the right side of the blade.

    At the start of a cut, I can push the piece effortlessly into the blade. Once the piece reaches the end of the spreader further from the blade, considerable more force must be exerted to push the wood through. Toward the end of the cut, the piece has a tendency to separate from the rip fence at the end if I don't hold it firmly against the rip fence. This results in a non-square ripped piece of plywood with one end 1/16" less wide than the other end.

    I've re-aligned the spreader according to the manual, but this has not solved the problem. Visual inspection of the spreader looks to me that the end further from the blade is curved toward the rip fence. Since I am new, I want to ask for the proper way to correct this problem. What should I do?

    Thank you!

  • #2
    Re: How to straighten spreader on a TS2400?

    Originally posted by vnh View Post
    I am new to woodworking (watch a lot of New Yankee workshop, but only now has the space for some woodworking tools) and recently purchased a Ridgid TS2400 TS used but in very good condition. My first project with the TS were closet organizers for two reach-in closets in the house. I started with 1/2" birch plywood and modeled the organizers loosely after pictures I see on the advertisements I get in the mail. I'm happy with the organizers, but the ripped pieces of playwoods are skewing to the right side of the blade.

    At the start of a cut, I can push the piece effortlessly into the blade. Once the piece reaches the end of the spreader further from the blade, considerable more force must be exerted to push the wood through. Toward the end of the cut, the piece has a tendency to separate from the rip fence at the end if I don't hold it firmly against the rip fence. This results in a non-square ripped piece of plywood with one end 1/16" less wide than the other end.

    I've re-aligned the spreader according to the manual, but this has not solved the problem. Visual inspection of the spreader looks to me that the end further from the blade is curved toward the rip fence. Since I am new, I want to ask for the proper way to correct this problem. What should I do?

    Thank you!
    VNH,

    Could be a couple of things, but first I'd rule out any misalignment of your blade, fence and splitter. Sounds like you've already looked at the splitter, but may need to adjust it again depending on what you find with the blade and fence alignment. Rockler sells a decent dial indicator system called A-line It. http://www.rockler.com/product.cfm?p...=a%20line%20it that will help you ensure all moveable parts of your saw are aligned with the miter groove. Once you know everything's parallel and in spec, try another cut to see if your problem goes away.

    Hope this helps!

    Take care,

    Steve

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    • #3
      Re: How to straighten spreader on a TS2400?

      Getting the splitter aligned is one of the more challenging aspects to the saw. Realize that there are three different points of adjustment for it. The manual only covers two. The three pieces are the Blade Guard or Splitter (which attaches with two 10mm bolts/nuts) to the Spreader Support (which has the thumbscrew in it and slides onto the shaft of the) Blade Guard Support, which attaches to the cradle with two 12mm bolts. The manual covers aligning the blade guard vertical to the table by using a try-square against the splitter and loosening/tightening the two 12 mm bolts in the Blade Guard Support (Step 1 in getting it aligned). It also covers loosing/tightening the two 10 mm bolts holding the Blade Guard to the spreader support to get it parallel to the blade. What it does NOT cover is that to get the vertical/parallel splitter lined up directly behind the blade, it is often necessary to loosen the 4mm (5/32) hex screw (allen wrench type) on the round shaft to allow you to move the whole thing left or right. (Step 3). This is done with the thumb screw tight on the rod.
      So, if you first get it vertical to the table, and then get it parallel to the blade, loosening the allen screw will let you get it behind the blade. With a thin kerf blade, you may have to go back and forth between steps two and three, but it isn't that difficult once you realize that allen screw is there.


      Hope this helps

      Go
      Practicing at practical wood working

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