No announcement yet.

3650-fix (epoxy)

  • Filter
  • Time
  • Show
Clear All
new posts

  • 3650-fix (epoxy)

    I called ridgid today and they are sending a new arbor.I asked for instuctions or a manual they said they dont have one.anyways they said if i cant fix it go to a service center.I called two service centers, and both said they had not herd of this and have never changed an arbor before.I recall reading on this site the instuctions on how to fix this with epoxy.Can someone tell me how to get that.

  • #2
    posted 12-06-2004 06:49 PM
    Everyone, John White has responded, and it sounds like a good temp. solution until Rigid can get the perm. fix in place. See below, and cudos to Fine Woodworking!
    Here's a solution to your saw's arbor problem that I tested on the Ridgid saw here in the shop. Basically, I filled the necked down area of the arbor with epoxy and then used a file to dress down the epoxy as the arbor was spun by the saw's motor.

    Start out by thoroughly cleaning the area to be filled. I used naphtha and a small brass brush followed by a second wipe down with naphtha on a paper towel. If you didn't get all the grease and oil off of the shaft it will show up on the towel and you'll know you need to keep cleaning. I used naphtha because it evaporates in just a minute or two and doesn't attack plastics or paint, alcohol would also work.

    For epoxy, I used J-B Kwik Weld which sets up in just a few minutes and achieves full strength in four hours. J-B weld is available in most hardware stores and at least some Home Depots. If you can't find J-B brand, any epoxy meant for use on metal will probably work, as long as it isn't too thin when mixed. J-B has just the right consistency, about like tooth paste. It is liquid enough to work into the rough spots on the arbor, but thick enough not to drip.

    I applied the epoxy with a tooth pick, filling up the low area of the arbor and working the epoxy just slightly into the start of the threaded section.
    Use the epoxy to build up the low area until it is slightly higher than the threaded part of the arbor. Once the epoxy is in place, let it set for at least a few hours before filing it down.

    To smooth the epoxy, I used a moderately coarse flat file to remove the bulk of the material and a fine file for the final touch up. The epoxy will clog the teeth of a file so you'll need a small metal brush to clean out the file's teeth. To protect the flange's face as you work, the files will need what are called safe edges. If you don't have a file with safe edges you can take an ordinary file and grind the teeth off of its edges to make it into a safe edge file.

    To file down the epoxy, start the saw and gently hold the coarser file against both the shaft and the face of the flange. Move the file with a forward stroking motion to prevent the rapid clogging that would occur if you held the file still. After a couple of forward strokes, stop the saw to check your progress and to clean out the file's teeth. After a minute or two, and a dozen or so passes, you should have the epoxy down almost to the level of the shaft all of way around. Now switch to the fine file to finish the job. You'll only need to use very light pressure on the files, so there is no risk of cutting into the shaft and reducing its diameter.

    After doing this to the saw we have here, I used a dado set to cut 10 feet of grooves into a maple plank. When I removed the dado blades after completing the cut, the epoxy was still solid and unmarked, so I don't think there will be a problem with it wearing out.

    Let me know if this solves your problem and feel free to ask if something isn't clear. I will let you know what we hear from Ridgid.


    John White
    Posts: 24 | From: CT | Registered: Nov 2004 | IP: Logged |