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Aww, #@$%! Need help with 3650 wrenches

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  • Aww, #@$%! Need help with 3650 wrenches

    Hi, all -

    I was trying to change the blade on my 3650 tonight. I think the last time I changed it (which was a while ago) I tightened the nut pretty good because it was on there tight.

    Well, when I went to change it I pulled and the open end wrench on the inside of the arbor partially stripped the nut. Not horribly bad but it still makes me mad.

    Two questions for you all:

    1.) Did I do any damage to the saw now other than the superficial mark on the metal where the nut is partially stripped? Will it affect how the saw cuts? Do I need to file it or anything?

    2.) Does anyone know the size of the inner part and the arbor nut so I can get some normal wrenches and stop using those stamped steel pieces of #%$@? Probably my own fault for tightening too hard but man I was upset at dinging my saw.

    Thanks for your help!

  • #2
    Re: Aww, #@$%! Need help with 3650 wrenches

    No damage was probably done. I never use the inside wrench just for that reason. I keep an Oak 1x2 on my fence and just hold the blade with that and use the box wrench on the OUTER nut.

    Mark
    Congratulations to Mr. "the sky is falling" Al Gore, nominated the new Village Idiot!

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    • #3
      Re: Aww, #@$%! Need help with 3650 wrenches

      What Mark said! I use a pencil to stop the blade, and only use the wrench on the outer nut.
      I put it all back together better than before. There\'s lots of leftover parts.

      Comment


      • #4
        Re: Aww, #@$%! Need help with 3650 wrenches

        I ran into the same problem replacing my blade - tightened too much. I used both stamped wrenches on the arbor and a large cresent wrench on the nut. The 2 wrenches grabbed more of the arbor and is less prone to slipping. Since then, I've been a lot more careful when tightening the arbor nut. Good luck.

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        • #5
          Re: Aww, #@$%! Need help with 3650 wrenches

          Sorry about your mishap. I'm always mad at myself when I do something like that. Whenever I change the blade I put the wrench on the arbor and manually turn the blade until it locks the wrench against the table. Does that make sense? Then I just use the other wrench on the nut. That way I'm only holding one wrench. It seems a lot safer to me and it is definetely easier. I've never had a problem changing the blade doing this.

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          • #6
            Re: Aww, #@$%! Need help with 3650 wrenches

            Originally posted by Northern Wood View Post
            2.) Does anyone know the size of the inner part and the arbor nut so I can get some normal wrenches and stop using those stamped steel pieces of #%$@? Probably my own fault for tightening too hard but man I was upset at dinging my saw.
            7/8" and 1 1/16". However like some mentioned above, I normally put a block of wood under the blade rather than using the inside wrench. Also worth mentioning you will need thinner than standard wrenches for the inside wrench to fit on the Arbor correctly. I actually bought a set of wrenches from a Cummins truck that passed through town some time ago and just took those two out and leave them hanging on my saw. The whole set was around $10 I think.
            Still enjoying all 10 fingers!

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            • #7
              Re: Aww, #@$%! Need help with 3650 wrenches

              I think what's needed here are what are known as Valve Tappet wrenches. They are open end and thin head, but unlike the &^%$ ones that come with machinery they are drop forged tool steel and ground to proper size. They also have rather long handles. Most are double end style. You can get them through the Sears-Craftsman web site or from the over priced tool trucks like MAC or Snap-on. Proto (Pro line of Stanley) has them too. For a good price I would look on e-Bay and search for tappet wrench. The 7/8" one should be easy, but finding them over 1 inch will take some hunting. As others do, I like the wood block to prevent the blade from turning.

              When you say that you stripped the nut, do you mean the inside threads or do you mean that you rounded the corners off the nut?

              http://www.sears.com/sr/javasr/produ...id=00944474000

              If the above link doesn't work, go to the main Craftsman site and search for 44474 and that should take you to the tappet wrench with 3/4 and 7/8 head sizes. They have a set which is a better deal if you have use for the same but with smaller sizes.
              Last edited by Woussko; 07-16-2007, 11:15 AM.

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              • #8
                Re: Aww, #@$%! Need help with 3650 wrenches

                Originally posted by Woussko View Post
                When you say that you stripped the nut, do you mean the inside threads or do you mean that you rounded the corners off the nut?
                Rounded the corners is what I meant. Thank God I didn't screw up the actual arbor threads.

                Thanks to all for the responses. I might pick up a wrench for the outside nut but it sounds like the block of wood method (or pencil) will work just fine.

                While I'm at it, how hard should I tighten the blade arbor nut? Thanks...

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                • #9
                  Re: Aww, #@$%! Need help with 3650 wrenches

                  I tighten the nut fairly snug. I don't "wail" on the wrench or struggle it really tight, but snug enough that it takes effort. Some of you may say "girls can't snug it down tight anyway", but I do have a good amount of upper body strength (compared to other gals I know), so keep that in mind.

                  Since the way the saw turns that arbor will cause the nut to want to tighten rather than loosen, I have always preferred to leave the nut "just tight" instead of "omg where's a gorilla to loosen this" tight!!
                  I put it all back together better than before. There\'s lots of leftover parts.

                  Comment


                  • #10
                    Re: Aww, #@$%! Need help with 3650 wrenches

                    I found that the pencil or wood block method works great but if you want to change a dado set you better use wrenches. Using the hand turning method to set the inboard wrench against the table top before you tighten the outboard nut seems to work well, even with those el cheapo wrenches that Ridgid furnishes with the saw. I, too, don't tighten the nut too tight. With regard to the damage you did, I doubt you did any real damage. I'd invest in a new nut to solve the rounding problem and give it another go.
                    No harm, no foul.
                    Bill

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                    • #11
                      Re: Aww, #@$%! Need help with 3650 wrenches

                      NW
                      I'm planning on getting the 7/8 tappet wrench from Sears the next time I go, but for now I use the stamped steel ones from Ridgid and only tighten the nut until just before the wrench feels like it's going to slip. If I feel uncomfortable with the tightness at that point, I do the board trick mentioned above. I've been a lot more careful since I got my first arbor nick.

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                      • #12
                        Re: Aww, #@$%! Need help with 3650 wrenches

                        Thanks, Hector... Nice to know I'm not alone!

                        I really love the saw and so far that is probably the only thing that I haven't liked. OK, that and the lack of directions on which bolt goes where for the Herc-u-lift. My previous saw was an $80 Pro-Tech from Menards. It was a P.O.S. but the stamped steel wrenches on that were better and thicker than the 3650 ones.

                        Maybe I'll have to pick up the tappet wrench at Sears too...

                        Comment


                        • #13
                          Re: Aww, #@$%! Need help with 3650 wrenches

                          This whole problem stems from a misapplication of the wrench in question in the first place. It isn't necessary to tighten the arbor nut on the blade very much at all because the rotation of the blade tightens the nut by itself. If you just tighten the arbor nut a little smidge past "hand tight", as soon as you turn on the saw the blade rotation will act to tighten the nut further. By itself it won't get tight enough to cause wrench problems. So go easy on, and it'll be easy off.

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