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Box joint jig

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  • Box joint jig

    I'm looking to bun a box joint jig. I'm looking at the sears box joint/ miter guide. or the wood smith box joint jig. If there any others let me know. Thanks sears web page

    [ 06-01-2003, 03:05 PM: Message edited by: Andy B. ]
    Andy B.

  • #2
    I am in the process of making the ShopNotes box joint jig. Has gotten some good press over at woodnet.net. If I ever get it done, what with 3 kids, soccer, etc etc etc, I'll let you know.

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    • #3
      Andy

      Here is a link to what I think is the best box joint jig out there. You can make one in under an hour for less than $20 in parts.


      http://www.netexperts.cc/~lambertm/W...ig.html#paypal


      You will have to scroll back to the top of the page.............

      [ 06-01-2003, 06:48 PM: Message edited by: Keystone ]
      Support Our Troops!
      www.mnpatriotguard.org
      www.patriotguard.org

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      • #4
        Hey Andy,

        You'd be satisfied with either of the two jigs suggested here. I had planned on building the Shopnotes jig myself. It looked like a good setup but then I finally went with the Lynn's Jig. Glad I did too. You can buy the hardware and build it yourself or you can buy the completed jig ready to use, either way, from the site directed in Keystone's post. You can even download the plans for it free and go buy your own hardware! You probably have the little bit of wood needed to build it lying around. I bought one already built. [img]redface.gif[/img] I Needed it kind'a fast.

        This jig gives you a lot of flexibility cutting the fingers to make them more tight or more loose, whatever.

        Cheers,
        John

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        • #5
          thanks guys.
          Andy B.

          Comment


          • #6
            Has any one put the sears box joint jig on a ridgid miter gauge?
            Andy B.

            Comment


            • #7
              Hey Andy,

              I do have the Sears box joint jig on my 3612 and it seems fine. I haven't cut any box joints with it on this saw yet but, as far as bolting on and using the stop block feature it works fine.

              Matt

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              • #8
                Matt S. Did you have to drill holes into your miter gauge?

                [ 06-05-2003, 09:47 AM: Message edited by: Andy B. ]
                Andy B.

                Comment


                • #9
                  I looked at it tonight at Sears and it looks like a straight-up fit to the Ridgid miter gauge head.

                  My only issue with it is with the amount of slop the Ridgid miter bar has in the slot, it seems like a waste of $60 since the stop and the boxjoint pin can slop back and forth.

                  Anybody have a suggestion on how to take out the slop in the miter bar???

                  Rick

                  [ 06-05-2003, 11:04 PM: Message edited by: RixWorx ]
                  <a href=\"http://photos.yahoo.com/rixworx\" target=\"_blank\">http://photos.yahoo.com/rixworx</a>

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                  • #10
                    Andy,

                    No I didn't drill any holes in my miter gauge the slots worked fine.

                    As far as any slop I didn't notice any but I haven't cut any box joints on this saw with it. I did cut them with my old saw and once you set it up it seems to work well.

                    As far as the price if I had to do it again I would buy it. I like the machined fit and trust it a little more than something I would build.

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                    • #11
                      At a woodworking show I sat in on a few table saw seminars. From what I remember, their suggestion is to take a steel flat chisel and make indents which pushes up material, helping the fit. When you go overboard, a file, dremel, or sanding takes off a little material. Of coarse, don't bang on the miter gage on your table saw top, good way to screw up your top! Their next suggestion was to throw the miter gage away regardless of fit and build a sled.

                      That was theirs; mine was to buy an incra miter bar [img]smile.gif[/img]

                      Comment


                      • #12
                        At a woodworking show I sat in on a few table saw seminars. From what I remember, their suggestion is to take a steel flat chisel and make indents which pushes up material, helping the fit. When you go overboard, a file, dremel, or sanding takes off a little material. Of coarse, don't bang on the miter gage on your table saw top, good way to screw up your top! Their next suggestion was to throw the miter gage away regardless of fit and build a sled.

                        That was theirs; mine was to buy an incra miter bar [img]smile.gif[/img] It does many things right

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                        • #13
                          Rick,

                          Take a center punch and dimple the side of the miter bar in 4-6 places sufficiently to take up the slack. Too much, use a file to back off. Too little punch some more! You're absolutely right, that there's too much movement in the bar to be that accurate. This fix should work.

                          If not, toss it, and get the Incra V27, low cost and fits perfectly

                          David

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                          • #14
                            Almost forgot, only indent/dimple one side of the bar. You want the other side flush against the side of the miter track.

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                            • #15
                              I wasted my money on that sears jig. I don't recomend it.
                              PROFESIONAL SAWDUSTMAKER

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