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TS2400 Suggestions

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  • TS2400 Suggestions

    Hi All,
    Two days ago, I bought a Ridgid TS2400 table saw. This is my first table saw, and I'm curious about a couple of things that maybe people here might be able to help me with:

    - I'm very safety conscious. Is the stock splitter/guard on the TS2400 effective? I'm not asking if it is easy to remove. I mean, does it do a good job stopping kickback/throwback? I do not plan to remove the guard splitter, since I will not be using this saw for dadoes.

    - What kind of accessories would you recomment for this tool? My plan is to rip both solid wood and plywood. But I do not plan to rip full 4x8 sheets.

    - Anything else I should know about?

  • #2
    Below is a post I made a few weeks ago on the same topic. To add some to that and answer some of your specific questions: Yes, the blade guard/splitter works well. It is easy to take off and reinstall so don't be afraid to do so - but be sure to use it. Don't go hog wild on accessories - perhaps a zero clearance insert and be sure to have some feather boards and good push sticks - all of which you can make. And it is a good idea to not try to cut 4 x 8 sheet material as you mentioned, this is not a cabinet saw. Reduce your sheet material with a circular saw and then finish the job on the TS.

    Here is my previous post:

    "Hope you enjoy the saw - I have had the saw for almost a year and love it - here are some tips,

    The Rip Inticator (page 27 of the Owners Manual)is easily moved if it gets bumped - so, make a quick check of its accuracy each time you reinstall the fence - it takes but a second. Don't try to tighten this thing to avoid movement, you will likely break it.

    Use a shop vac on the sawdust ejector port but look closely into the port and you may find two or three vertical plactic bars - they tend to collect saw dust and impair saw dust collection - I removed them to solve the problem - no adverse consequences. Also, a lot of dust spews out of the bottom of the saw, I use a box placed beneath the saw to collect it and will soon try one of the new bags designed for this purpose.

    The wing nut near the Blade Guard Storage area interferes with easy storage of the Blade Guard - take the nut off and invert the bolt and put the wing nut back on the bottom of the saw - problem solved.

    Get a decent blade - I use a thin kerf Frued and am pleased with the results. I found using a regular kerf rip blade works better if you are ripping thicker material, but for all other work I use the thin kerf blade.

    Wear hearing protection - this sucker is loud!"


    • #3
      Thank you very much for the information/advice. I'm definitely going to do the things you suggested.

      You know, we hear and read so much about table saw kickback that sometimes I start feeling like it's bound to happen no matter what I do. Maybe I was reading too much about table saw accidents!

      If you don't mind, I have one more question. I installed the splitter according to the manual. But looking down onto the splitter, it is set slightly right of center. In other words, the splitter is not directly in the center of the blade -- it's a little more towards the fence. I've heard from some woodworkers that they like their splitters aligned this way because it offers a slight feather-board effect, pushing the stock into the fence. But I just want to confirm.

      Thanks again for your help.


      • #4
        Sorry for the delay in responding, I have not logged on for a couple of days. My initial thought is that the splitter is not strong enough to act as a feather board and that is not its function. It is meant to just keep the cut pieces apart. Adjusting it to put pressure on the cut piece may defeat its purpose. Those folks who tweak their saws a bit do so for personal preference after many years of use (or sometimes, just plain ignorance.) Adjust it as indicated in the owners manual and you will have no problems. As for your fear of kick back I have two thoughts: One, you are experiencing a healthy fear of the machine, albeit, a bit exaggerated because it is a new experience - so use the saw for awhile to get comfortable with it, also, read what the experts say about how to avoid kickback and follow their advice. And two, most accidents occur when we become too familiar with a process and thus become lax - the old "I've done this a thousand times" syndrome - that is to be feared more than being new. So, when you get so used to the machine that you hurriedly set up a cut and start to move the wood but in the back of your mind you wonder if it is safe - STOP - because it is not safe.

        So, my advice is to set the machine up as directed in the owners manual, and do so carefully with atttendion to detail - then go make some sawdust - use scraps, or make some scraps out of good wood, you will eventually do that anyway. If you are not satisfied with the cuts for any reason, say a rip produces burned edges or cross cuts are not perfect 90's, go back and check your set up. Then make a project. You'll have fun.


        • #5
          Ray's advice is excellent. You can learn a lot about your equipment by just reading the manual. Unfortunately, most folks hurriedly put their equipment together. Some stop reading the manual at completion of setup (if they even get that far).

          A good book for further information is "The Tablesaw Book" by Kelly Mehler. Very sound, non-partisan advice.

          One bit of advice I'd like to add (and this is just my opinion mind you), make your own push sticks out of wood for use on a tablesaw. I've seen many tablesaw accident reports that site a hard plastic push stick as being the final piece to the puzzle, resulting in lacerations or amputations. These are not always rookies, but seasoned cabinetmakers. What happens is the wood piece binds for one reason or another, kicks back and pulls the hard plastic push stick into the blade, which then pulls their hand into the blade.

          Have fun, but never lose sight of where your hands are.

          [ 02-17-2005, 10:44 AM: Message edited by: DK ]


          • #6
            THE MANUAL ... one of the greatest things about the manual is Ridgid printed 3 separate copies for English, Spanish & French. Since I only can read English, I tossed the other two.

            Nothing irritates me more than a manual that is 3 times as large as it needs to be. Double irritation is when all three (or more) languages are thoughout a manual rather than being in separate sections.

            THANK YOU RIDGID !!


            • #7
              Doug---be glad you got a manual at all----have you seen the so-called manuals that come with computers and software? Oh yeah, they may have a manual on the CD---that does you a lot of good if you can't get the friggin' thing to run.

              The 2400 is a nice saw. I totally agree with the suggestions for information, push sticks, etc. Kelly's book in particular has some great advice in avoiding kickbacks. Also, you should make some feather boards or, I've found the ones that fit into the miter slots (wood---not plastic) to do the job very well.


              • #8
                Thanks for the tips. Every one was right on. I used my new TS2400 for the first time today and found it worked great. I was a little hesitant about the size and loading it into my truck, but found it easy to load and quick to set up at the job site. I expect it will provide me many years of use.
                If your gonna fix it right


                • #9
                  Hey, I just gave you one man's opinion (of course it is one that I think highly of!!)and I am glad it was helpful.

                  As for loading and unloading, I am not a young muscle man, just an old Marine, and at age 60 I can get it in and out of the Volvo wagon with little difficulty. Of course, after that, set up is a breeze. I don't know if I could put it up on a pickup truck bed, but then that is not my problem - good luck, my friend, keep us informed.



                  • #10
                    Just make sure you don't cut any small pieces that would fit between the blade and insert until you get or make a zero clearance insert.
                    info for all: --- "I like long walks, especially when they are taken by people who annoy me."


                    • #11

                      I would also recommend the Ridgid flip top stand as an additional item for ripping projects. It is a little more expensive, but worth the money.