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Help!! - Major Jointer Problems

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  • Help!! - Major Jointer Problems

    My problem is quite troubling. I cannot make a square piece of wood using my Rigid jointer anymore. As I feed the wood into the cutterhead, it starts to cut for about the first 12 inches and then the cutterhead stops making contact with the wood. I pass the wood through again, same thing. I look along the piece and I can see that is getting thin at the start and thick at the half way point forming a wedge shape. I do not know why because I have never had a problem before. The only thing that has changed is that I have had the jointer knives sent out to get sharpened. I posted my concerns regarding the jointer knives about 1 month ago - I stated I could not get the knives aligned as per the instructions because the sharpened edge was not consistent. The outside edges of the knives are higher than the middle portion of the knife.

    I do not have enough experience with jointers to know if this is the source of my problem. Either way, this is driving me absolutely nuts. I am killing some really nice pieces of wood. If anyone has any ideas, I would love to hear them.

  • #2
    First things first, get those blades sharpened by somebody who knows what they're doing. You'll never get a good flat cut with blades that are concave or convex. They MUST be flat all the way across. Re: the taper on your wood I suspect the problem is in your outfeed table. It is not running parallel to the infeed table. I'm certain it is running ever so slightly uphill. Use a straight edge and raise the infeed table to the same height as the outfeed and see if they are running parallel to each other. If not correct that. If thats not it I don't know what it could be. Sometimes tuning up a jointer can be a pain but once it's right about all you'll need to worry about is setting the blades. Good luck.


    • #3
      I'll double what rbl2 wrote and add if your wood is warped - like the bow in bow and arrow - the cutter will contact the first part of the bow and will cause a wedge shape after many passes. This would be normal. Sometimes - except at HD, all the time - wood is so warped that it cannot be salvaged. Could it be that your board is so not straight that as it passes the cutter the first part goes against it and then the hump just goes over? If your jointer worked before and you did not mess with the tables it has to be the wood. Hope I'm right.

      Best regards,



      • #4
        if your wood is warped - like the bow in bow and arrow
        Proper name here is "crook". The four warp defects are bow (curved looking at edge), cup (curved looking at end grain), twist ("propellor") and crook.

        wood is so warped that it cannot be salvaged.
        If you're still referring to crook, it always can be straightened. Trick here is to joint "from the inside out". Place the board so the crook faces down, forming a "frowning face". Set the jointer for a light cut (at least while learning), and place the middle of the board over the cutterhead. Then, joint the outfeed side of the board. Alternate ends by flipping the board between passes. Even an extreme crook can be removed in this fashion. If those directions don't make sense, don't try it, ask for elaboration.

        Oh, T-45. You're problem is easy, the outfeed table is too high. Lower it until a jointed board has snipe on the outfeed end, then raise it until the snipe has just barely gone away and lock in place. If your knives are not straight, you'll need to do that every time you move the fence. Honest, it really is that easy.



        • #5
          Thanks for your great replies. I look forward to getting some better results this week when I find time.

          Cheers, David


          • #6
            It is not necessarily an out-of-parallel out feed table, but one that is not adjusted properly. First, get your blades resharpened so that they are perfectly straight across. Without a straight edge on the blade, there is not reference point for which you set the table. Once you have the blades properly set in the cutter head (all blades should be exactly the same height), place a straight edge on the out feed table, hanging over the cutter head. As you rotate the cutter head the knife should come in contact with the straight edge. I like to have the out feed table adjusted in such a way that as I rotate the cutter head, the knife just picks up the straight edge and moves it forward approximately 1/8"-1/4". This sets the out feed table just below the tip of the knives and I think you will find this does a much better job of planing.



            • #7
              Out of curiosity what does a new set of blades cost. I doubt my HD has them so I'd bee calling Ridgid directly or off the web site.

              How doe sthat compare to the cost of sharpening. I recently had a hedge trimmer sharpened. It was half the cost of the time it'll just get replaced.




              • #8
                Answer: $24.97

                Go to

                or search for AC8600 for the set of 3 blades.


                • #9
                  Hi Charlie and all,

                  I came back after checking out and got the answer to my question. That seems a reasonable price for a new set of blades. I wonder how much T-45 paid for the random sharpening of his baldes.

                  I have a TP 600 and I am really happy with it.