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  • Jointer alignment

    Hi folks,

    I have the JP0610 Ridgid jointer less than a year. It worked OK but I wasn't satisfied with the results and I felt things were mis-aligned so went back to square zero trying to align everything (tables/knives). I unlock the screws for both tables and try to make them co-planar, but it seems no matter what, the center of the jointer is higher than the two end-points of the tables when I titghten the screws. I assume gibs screws don't help in this matter (as I played with them a lot too). How to go about fixing this?

    Just to add to the problem, when I try to set the knives height, put a straight edge on the outfeed table (once close to the fence and once far from the fence; i.e. the two end-points of the knives); I bring the knives them up just enough so that they touch the straight edge; but then when I put the edge on the middle of the table it doesn't touch the knives. Could it be that the table is coved in the middle? What should I do? I don't know if this model is still being produced.

  • #2
    Re: Jointer alignment

    The table gibs are not meant to adjust the tables to be coplanar however if they are not adjusted properly they could cause the tables to sag at the ends (as yours are). The tables are held coplanar by the dovetail ways. What you need to do is loosen the table locks (refer to fig 43 in online manual), loosen the 5 lock nuts
    Tighten or loosen three gib adjustment set screws, as necessary for the infeed table or two gib adjustment screws, as necessary for the
    outfeed table; starting with the lower screw first and as you proceed to the top screw, gently raise the outboard edge of the table that is being adjusted. This will offset any tendency for the table casting to “droop or sag” and permit the gib to be adjusted to a secure fit. After
    the gibs have been adjusted, tighten locknuts and table locking screws IMPORTANT: Do not leave the adjusting screws too loose. It should take a little bit of effort to move the tables up or down.
    If they are still not coplanar and you are sure you have adjusted them correctly look for an authorized service center in your area and have them fix under warranty.

    If it does work out here is how I adjust the knives on mine ... with a Jointer Pal (HATE the jack screws). One more thing before you start is to set the outfeed table about 0.060" above the cutter head. Carefully rotate the cutterhead until the round portion of the cutterhead is on top (not a knife slot)
    Place a .060” feeler gage on the cutterhead and using a straight edge on the rear table adjust the height of the rear table until it is .060” above the cuttinghead diameter. This ensures that the knives are not too far out from the head so they are held and supported securely.

    Have a look at the picture (below). Unplug the machine. First find the high point in the rotation of you knives. You can do this by setting the outfeed table just slightly lower (0.001" will do) than the blades. Put a flat (just jointed) stick ( 1" wide or so) in the same position as the jointer pal arm that is against the fence (not using the jointer pal at this point. Now rotate the cutter head by hand and watch the stick move with the blade (if it moves more than an inch back an forth raise the outfeed table a bit. Now rotate the cutter head backward until the stick stops moving (knife no longer touching it) and not the position of the front edge of the blade, now rotate the cutter head forward until the stick stops moving again and note the position of the front edge of the blade again. The point half way in-between the two point you just noted is the high point of the cutting arc. Mark this point on your fence. If you want to verify the point you can raise the outfeed table more and more until the wood barely moves as you rock the cutter head and the front edge of the knife should still be at the mark you made on the fence. Now replace all the knives and just snug up the screws that hold the knives, make sure you set the jack screws so they do not touch the blade.
    In the picture you see a scribed line on the jointer pal (you should have one on yours as well) this indicates the center of the magnet and the point where it will hold the knives as you set them in your machine. Set the scribed line on the jointer pal to line up exactly with the line on your fence.
    Rotate the cutter head so the first knife is held by the magnet, if the blade does not come up to meet both magnets loosen the blade screws a bit so the blade can move. Now snug each blade holding screw a bit at a time, do not fully tighten each screw one at a time, it is best to gradually tighten all the screw a bit, make three passes on all the screws to go from loose to tight. This prevent the blade wedge from skewing the knife. Once the screws are tight check that the blade is touching both arms of the jointer pal. Do the other two blades in the same manner. You do not need to worry about the jack screws when you use the jointer pal.
    Joint a test piece. If you find that you feel a bit of a bump just as the stock gets to the outfeed table edge you did not set the blades exactly at the high point which is not a problem because all the blades are set exactly to this same height. Just lower the outfeed table a hair. Conversely if you find that the last bit of the jointed edge has more material removed the outfeed table is too low.
    To set my outfeed table height I usually take a jointed straight piece of would and lay it on the outfeed table and just over the knives. now I rotate the head and listen to the knives, if you can hear the knife just brush the wood the height is correct, if you cant hear the knives lower the table, if you can hear the knives and see or feel the wood move the table needs to be raised.
    If you still have questions just ask..

    Last edited by wbrooks; 08-16-2007, 10:47 PM.

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    • #3
      Re: Jointer alignment

      Many thanks Wayne. I appreciate the time you spent to write this comprehensive post. I've got a new straight edge and will try to redo all things again.

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      • #4
        Re: Jointer alignment

        also check that the two tables are flat to each other, put a straight edge across the two and see if the straight edge is touching both tables the entire length, (if not then some thing is miss machined), and needs some attention by the factory as most can not be adjusted in that plane.
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        • #5
          Re: Jointer alignment

          Originally posted by beauty123
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          I fail to make the connection between your replies and the subject matter, so I searched for ALL your posts since you joined in June of this year, and here they are:

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          Jointer alignment
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          Forum: Woodworking Discussion Forum 07-03-2007, 10:16 PM Replies: 7
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          So it seems you make some little comment that has no relevance to the subject trying to avoid being labeled a SPAMMER and then you include as part of your worthless response a hyperlink on part of your post to some website where you no doubt harvest peoples emails so you can sell them to spammers or use them yourself.

          My opinion is if you want to make your cute but worthless comments do it without the links to outside the forum, because they have no relevance to the forum or the topic being discussed. I also feel that this is just a new way to circumvent being banned and maybe Josh or someone should evaluate your continued participation in the forum.
          "It's a table saw, do you know where your fingers are?" Bob D. 2006

          https://www.youtube.com/user/PowerToolInstitute

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          • #6
            Re: Jointer alignment

            I aligned the jointer as best as I could. I noticed that the infeed table has a deep in the middle (from end-point to cutter-heads) which is less than 0.002" (could be about 0.001" but I coudln't measure more accurately). I know this is something I cannot do anything about (manufacture fault?). Are the gaps in that range (say no more than 0.002") across the table acceptable? I seems to me; at least the result looks good to me.

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            • #7
              Re: Jointer alignment

              Should not cause issues with that gap. How does it work now?

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              • #8
                Re: Jointer alignment

                Works fine; at least I couldn't notice any gap when I put a freshly jointed piece of about 5' length against my straight edge. I am not too fussy about that 0.002" deep; my woodworking cannot be more accurate than that

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