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TS3650, fence not square vertically

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  • TS3650, fence not square vertically

    I've had my table saw over a year. When recently trying to cut lumber on edge, I found the fence isn't square to the table, it leans to the right. I'm a newbie and just never thought to check. I don't believe there is an adjustment for this. It's enough off that I can't get an acceptable cut on a 2 x 4 on edge.

    Is there a way to correct this? I wondered if you could shim under the right hand bolts on the front of the fence? Seems like the lock on the opposite end might skew it though. Any suggestions?


  • #2
    Re: TS3650, fence not square vertically

    I would start by making sure the rails are parallel to the table surface...

    Check that first and see if it helps.
    Cheers! - Jim
    All truth passes through three stages: First it is ridiculed. Second, it is violently opposed. Third, it is accepted as being self-evident. - Schopenhauer


    • #3
      Re: TS3650, fence not square vertically

      Is the square you are using to check your fence accurate? Many are not.
      The fence could be square but the blade is not vertical. I do a lot of resawing, and if the cut is off, it is usually the the blade is not truly vertical, or the wood is not flat and the edge square to the surface against the fence. A 2x4 from the store is not flat and may not be square. If you are running a stock 2x4 against the fence, and flip it and the cuts do not line up, the edges probably were not square to start with, and the faces are not flat.
      Try running the board thru flat and trim enough off both sides to get a straight flat parallel edge. By this time the board will be narrow enough to make one pass vertically through the saw. Push the board thru on edge (don't try to keep the whole height against the fence, let it ride on the cut edge) and check with the try square against the edge that ran on the table and the face that the blade cut. If they are not square, the problem is that the blade is not vertical. Use a relatively short board for the test (less than the fence length). the longer the board, the more distortion that any twist in it will give the cut.
      I can usually get a good square board about 1 1/4 by 3 1/4 if it is not too long (2 or 3 ft) from stock store bought 2x4s. Many times I end up with a shade over an inch for longer boards by the time I get them true. It takes several runs trimming 1/32nd to 1/16th at a time.
      A jointer will reduce the amount you lose truing them up, but not by much. It does make the job much easier and faster. Or you can use a hand plane.

      If the fence face is truly not square to the table, you need to make an auxiliary fence and shim it to square when attaching it to the fence.

      Practicing at practical wood working