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  • TP1300 Thickness Planer

    I just purchased my first thickness planer and although I own about every other tool known to man and know how to use them fairly well, the owners manual that came with the planer gives practically no idea as to actual use other then saftey warnings and product disclaimers. I'm not complaining but I have a stack of rough cut lumber that I'd really like to finish plane without complications. Can anyone run me through the basics from rough cut to finished?
    Thanks

  • #2
    For a good overview on how to use your planer, check out "Jointers and Planers" by Rick Peters, ISBN 0-8069-6755-2.
    Teach your kids about taxes..........eat 30 percent of their ice cream.

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    • #3
      Hey Jim,

      Here is a short version:

      1 cut to lenght. Leave a little extra for snipe or other problems and make a final end cut last.

      2 - joint one edge.

      3 - surface on side.

      4 - plane to thickness. Here are some planer tips:
      Remove material slowly!
      Allways feed with the grain and feed the same end every time.
      Keep some calipers on hand to spot check for thickness as you go.
      Feed in differnt places along the cutter head.

      5 - rip to width. Jointed side against the fence, surfaced side against the table - this makes the sides parallel.

      6 - final cut to lenght.

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      • #4
        As you may already know, the planer will not flatten twists, wanes, or bows without some manipulation....it'll smooth, reduce and make one side parallel to the other, so most people face joint one side flat with a jointer, edge joint the adjacent edge, then put the unfaced side through the planer to make it parallel to the flattened side. The next step is to rip to width on the TS.

        Take light passes...1/16" to 1/32" depending on width, hardness and figure. For long boards use extra support at the infeed and outfeed. For highly figured hardwoods you may want to dampen the surface being planed slightly. When planing to thickness and taking multiple passes, flip the board and alternate the face that gets planed so it won't bow. For boards that are narrow, alternate which side of the planer you enter from to wear the knives evenly, or put them through at a slight angle. Put short boards end to end to reduce snipe. Use a DC....these things a chipping spewing monsters!

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        • #5
          "Use a DC....these things a chipping spewing monsters! "

          You're right there, can't say that loud enough

          I used my DW735 once and made a total mess in the shop (the chip collector attachment had not arrived yet, and I was chomping at the bit to test it out). Two days later I had the chip collector and now no mess, was definately worth the $99 for the chip collector. The fan in the DW735 is strong enough to pull the chips out and push them through the 10' hose into a 32 Gal. metal trash can. I remove the bonnet and put the metal lid on the can when not in use just to reduce the chance of a fire since I also do occasional metal work (grinding/cutting) that can send sparks flying around the shop. Can't be too safe.

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