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TS-3650 Can't get blade aligned with miter groove.

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  • TS-3650 Can't get blade aligned with miter groove.

    Cant get trunnion (blade) to align with the table miter slots. This was going to be the big day to make this saw cut square. the plan was to go back through the alignment procedure, using a caliper with a dial and get it "zeroed in". To my amazement, I had to move the micro adjust lever over all the way and it was still off from front to back by an amount of 0.009 to 0.012 inches. (I made the measurement about a dozen times while varying the measurement techniques) The trunion will just not rotate any further. Ya'll got any ideas on this? I'm afraid that Ridgid's position will be that it only has to be within 0.015 inches since that what it says in the manual. I think my next move will be to remove one bolt at a time from the rear trunion mount and remove the threads where the bolt is in contact with the trunnion bolt hole. This should allow a little more movement of the trunnion. It doesn't need much. I'll probably use my own bolts so that the warranty is not voided.

  • #2
    I doubt I can hep much but a couple of questions need to be asked.

    What are you using for a measuring device? Before altering the trunion, test your measurements by alternate means. I've re-worked more than one project untill totally frustrated only to find out my square wasn't square.

    With the full adjustment made are you getting the outcome as you expect? Although not the outcome you want. By adjusting the trunion are you improving the outcome from say .004 to .0015. If it's not improving in a linear way then something else is the problem.

    Finally, make sure its not the blade or arbor. Original equipment blades are generally horrible and can skew your adjustments. Replace the blade or at least identify the runout of the blade and the arbor B/4 proceeding.

    If you already tried these then "Nice chatting with ya" but, I guess I don't know the answer either.

    Comment


    • #3
      This would be a good question to ask Ridgid since they have a proprietory system on their trunions. I'd give them a call and give them a chance to help you out. If they'r enot helpful, maybe someone will post an answer.

      let us know what they say,

      Thanks
      Jake

      Comment


      • #4
        I used a caliber with a dial indicator on it. I was suspicious of the blade also, so I changed it. That still did not help. No matter what I do or how I measure it, the rear of the blade needs to move to the left about another 0.010 inches.
        There is yet another thing that I don't understand. Why doesn't the manual call for greater accuracy in the set-up?
        What would be the problem with the arbor?
        thanks for your input into this problem? I will be on hold tommorrow with Ridgid Tech Support.

        Comment


        • #5
          "Just in case" are you marking the tooth you're checking to & using same tooth front & back?
          Ross

          Comment


          • #6
            Re: the .015
            That was a shocker to me too.

            However I just pulled out my manual. It makes no mention of any kindof tolerance. It has 1/2 paragraph and a sentence.

            1) If blade is not aligned with slot in ttable loosen trunion screws and bump as needed witha mallet
            2) Retighten screws.

            Not much in the way of advice. I called my dealer to get tolerances.

            Good luck with Ridgid

            Jake

            Comment


            • #7
              Yes, I was measuring and comparing the front and rear distances using the same tooth.

              In my manual, on page 23, last paragraph it says:
              "If square does not touch the marked tooth at the front and rear equally (gap is greater than 0.015 inches - thickness of 4 pages from owner's manual) or tooth interferes with square, the mechanism underneath must be adjusted to make the blade parallel to the miter gauge groove."


              You know, it doesn't make sense. They are implying they want you to get more accurate than the blade or "run out" of the blade.(else why would they have you be sure to use the same tooth). And could a blade's runout be off as much 0.015 inches? It seems like a lot.

              Also its pretty hard to measure this distance to two or three thousandths. It depends how your caliper is touching the tooth. some of these teeth are angled and pointing out different directions.

              I suppose they are thinking the average guy is not having a caliper gauge and would not have the patience to go through this, and they are probably relying on it being close enough from the factory.

              I'm just trying to get a square cut every time.

              Thanks for all of ya'lls input into this problem.

              Comment


              • #8
                I just got off the phone with Ridgid's tech support. He understood what my porblem was and said the front of the trunnion's mounting holes has slots also. Great!!!! So... now I can move the front of the trunnion in the opposite direction and get it all lined up and square. I hope...

                Comment


                • #9
                  ctaylor,

                  Do a search for some earlier posts. Someone mentioned using the angle adjust wheel to help move and hold the front trunion after the bolts are loose.
                  Can someone help me install this blade!!!!!!

                  Comment


                  • #10
                    Excellent, I hope you're able to get squared away.

                    I do have one question however. I'm not quite understanding how you're using a caliper. My understanding of a caliper is a jawlike instrument that goes on either side of an object to measure it's width. I don't quite understand how this would help one measure parrallelism of a blade.

                    Only way I know is through a dial indicator or a feeler guage < thin strips of metal you place in the gap with marking of their thickness. > Dial indicator is much more accurate.

                    Jake

                    Comment


                    • #11
                      Yes, the instrument I'm using has a movable jaw that is connected to a dial. It can be used for measuring an outside dimension or an inside dimension. As the jaws open and close the the dial spins around. The dial displays hundredths and thousandths. inches and tenths are shown on the horizontal scale. I'm measuring the inside dimesion from the edge of the tooth to the far side of the groove.

                      The ridgid's tech support solution of moving the front side of the trunnion worked. I know have the blade and miter groove as parallel as I can measure with that Dial/caliper.

                      Comment


                      • #12
                        I had what sounds like the same problem with my 2424 about 4 years ago. I couldn't get the blade aligned with the miter slot. It was about .008-.012 out and since the rear of the blade was closer to the rip fence than the front, I had a real safety issue. I spent a huge amount of time trying to correct this and thought there was a problem with the trunion. I can't remember exactly how I finally made the adjustment but I do recall that the manual and video were incorrect and that technical service didn't help much. Luckily a woodworking show was in town about this time and I ran into the owner of In-Line Industries, Jerry something.
                        He sells the Dubby crosscut sled among other things. One of those things is PALS (Precision Alignment System). The set screws used by Ridgid to make the parallel adjustment are pretty much copies of his PALS. He told me what to do and I spent about 5 minutes making the adjustment to within .002. I remember a key difference in what he told me and what the manual said had to do with the front trunion bolts. Now, Ridgid may have changed this in later versions of the manual, but you can contact this guy at www.in-lineindustries.com.

                        Comment


                        • #13
                          Congrats Ctaylor.

                          You should be good to go. Glad they were able to help you. Did they say anything about the .015 in manual. Just curious?

                          Jake

                          Comment


                          • #14
                            I got a TS-3650. And this discussion has me a little apprehensive. Was this thread one of those "how many angels can fit on the head of a pin" discussion or is this something I really need to be concerned about. Don't have me running out to steal an electron microscope to see if my saw blade is aligned. Tell me the thruth now, and shame the devil.
                            If a butterfly didn\'t have wings, they\'d call it a butterwalk.

                            Comment


                            • #15
                              WoodworkerJake - Well, I did ask the ridgid tech support about the 0.015 inches. I don't remember his reply. Its been two days. It was probably brushed off or didn't register with me because I was so glad to find out the front of the trunnion could move and that I didn't have to take the saw back.

                              Slippery_when_wet - yeah I know what you mean about over working a subject.
                              I don't know if you should be concerned about this alignment issue. Maybe someone else could come in here and answer that. All I know is that I couldn't reliably and repeatedly get a square cut and I thought this could be a reason. I've got a lot to learn about this yet. Still not sure if the blade alignment will solve my square cut problem. So far, after making a few cuts it seems to be better.

                              I don't know how accurate this saw should be. It seemed to me that 1/16 inch off on a 20 inch cut wasn't acceptable.

                              Comment

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