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  • #16
    Re: BS1400 Vibration issues

    Originally posted by krich View Post
    I would suggest checking the driven pulley also. On my BS14000, the driven pulley outside diameter was not concentric with the hole for the shaft. I ended up replacing it with a new steel pulley from Grizzly. After doing what you did and changing the driven pulley and installing a link belt, I was able to reduce the vibration to the point that the saw would pass the nickel test. Actually posted some pictures a while back showing the saw running and a nickle standing on end in both planes.

    I don’t want to hijack this thread but does anybody know of an aftermarket upper and lower roller guide assy. that will fit this saw?
    http://www.carterproducts.com/produc...=102&cat_id=13

    $170

    Comment


    • #17
      Re: BS1400 Vibration issues

      any idea what pulley you got from grizzly? they have several available

      Originally posted by krich View Post
      I would suggest checking the driven pulley also. On my BS14000, the driven pulley outside diameter was not concentric with the hole for the shaft. I ended up replacing it with a new steel pulley from Grizzly. After doing what you did and changing the driven pulley and installing a link belt, I was able to reduce the vibration to the point that the saw would pass the nickel test. Actually posted some pictures a while back showing the saw running and a nickle standing on end in both planes.

      I don’t want to hijack this thread but does anybody know of an aftermarket upper and lower roller guide assy. that will fit this saw?

      Comment


      • #18
        Re: BS1400 Vibration issues

        It looks like Grizzly has changed things since I ordered my replacement pulley. While I can’t remember the item number for the one I ordered, what I have is a 6” OD single groove pulley with a ¾” keyed bore. The pulley needs to work with an A4 belt. Looking at Grizzly, I would say pulley item number G5438 http://www.grizzly.com/products/Single-V-Groove-Pulley-6-Pitch-Dia-3-4-Bore/G5438 would work. I had to file down the key a bit to get it to fit the keyway in the pulley bore. Nothing that should take more than a few minutes. Make sure you tighten the set screw. Although the pulley shown in the link does not appear to be the same one I installed, looking at the description, I think it would work. Prior to ordering, I would recommend you measure the lower wheel shaft to ensure its ¾”. Never know if or when Ridgid may change something.
        Attached Files

        Comment


        • #19
          Re: BS1400 Vibration issues

          I will have to parrot (almost) what Wood Junkie said above.

          I bought the BS1400 a few weeks ago (on sale) but did not get to put it together until last weekend. My preliminary impression was that I liked the saw but it obviously needed tuning. Initially the cut was VERY ragged and the tracking was not great, but I futzed with it (usually good with my hands) and got it to stop vibrating quite so badly and also got the tracking down to about 1/16" per 4" of cut. This was NOT what I wanted, and I kept working on it.

          (Out of curiosity, I tried the motor without the belt removed. There was only a very faint vibration felt at the table, and the nickel test passed. So I knew that the problem was NOT the motor or its pulley.)

          Today I replaced the rubber tires with urethane, added a linkbelt, and installed a Timber Wolf (Viking) 1/2" 3tpi blade.

          (I had already aligned the pulley wheels.)

          At first after adding the urethane tires, the balance was a bit off, so I reread the directions and realized that the belt might be "bunched up" in some places. The directions suggested using a screwdriver to lift the belt going around the wheel to re-seat it and spread the tension, but that was taking forever. So I had the idea of putting a 3/8" wooden dowel between the tire and the wheel, and spinning it (the dowel) with a drill at low speed (10 RPM or less) to "walk" the tire around the rim, speading the tension - hence the supposed bunching.

          Then I balanced the wheels. I found that the upper wheel had been factory-drilled on the inside to balance it, but I couldn't get the lower wheel off to check it for that With the new tires on, a little tightly-wound copper wire held in place with high temp hot glue got them both to a very good static balance.

          When I closed the covers and turned the saw on there was still only mild vibration - the nickel stayed balanced on its edge. Then I tried resawing a 12" long 2" high strip of oak, and the drift at 12" was only 0.042".

          I think that the biggest difference came replacing the belt - I'm not sure but I suspect that the extreme hardness of the belt coupled with the "set" it had out of the box was the cause.

          I haven't touched the guide-blocks yet, and I'm still looking for a fence, but overall I think the saw is going to be really useful in the long run.

          Comment


          • #20
            Re: BS1400 Vibration issues

            I guess I don't get it. Why would you buy a bandsaw brand new when you know it has issues out of the box and that you are going to have to spend $100 or more to get it right when there are other options.

            Comment


            • #21
              Re: BS1400 Vibration issues

              I think for the price point, it's still the best value. And after the "fixes" (and upgrades) you wind up with a saw that exceeds some of the higher priced models and has better components. Below, I am speaking *strictly* of the sub-$600 bandsaws. Of course, a Laguna is going to kick the Ridgid's arse, even post-upgrades. But for twice the price, that's assuredly expected.

              Anyway, few of them come with great quality urethane tires. None, if any, have link-belts. And I can't think of a single "hobbyist" level woodworking tool that comes with a good quality blade. So these are three things that you would have to upgrade on any bandsaw in this category. So it's only fair to factor these out of the 'extra cost' equation.

              The wheel balancing and planar alignment is, in my opinion, an acceptable task. How many of your woodworking machines do you expect to be perfectly tuned and setup right out of the box? I don't expect many of them to be, BUT I am pleasantly surprised when they are! Wheel tuning takes about 15 minutes, unless you have wheels which shouldn't have passed manufacturing QA... and some people have had that scenario (10 holes drilled in the wheel is ludicrous), or you need to add shims. But I think the vast majority of we BS1400 owners have had a relatively easy tune-up job. This doesn't actually cost anything, except a little time. And if you do it well, on any bandsaw, you can eliminate drift.

              Finally, there is little crowing about the Grizzly or JET fences, but the Kreg fence is widely very well regarded. So, there's your $100 or so cost. Even with all the above, the BS1400 arrives about $100 cheaper than the Grizzly G0555X, which is the only one I could find which is equitable with the end-resulting Ridgid.

              Comment


              • #22
                Re: BS1400 Vibration issues

                Originally posted by Wood_Junkie View Post
                I think for the price point, it's still the best value. And after the "fixes" (and upgrades) you wind up with a saw that exceeds some of the higher priced models and has better components. Below, I am speaking *strictly* of the sub-$600 bandsaws. Of course, a Laguna is going to kick the Ridgid's arse, even post-upgrades. But for twice the price, that's assuredly expected.

                Anyway, few of them come with great quality urethane tires. None, if any, have link-belts. And I can't think of a single "hobbyist" level woodworking tool that comes with a good quality blade. So these are three things that you would have to upgrade on any bandsaw in this category. So it's only fair to factor these out of the 'extra cost' equation.

                The wheel balancing and planar alignment is, in my opinion, an acceptable task. How many of your woodworking machines do you expect to be perfectly tuned and setup right out of the box? I don't expect many of them to be, BUT I am pleasantly surprised when they are! Wheel tuning takes about 15 minutes, unless you have wheels which shouldn't have passed manufacturing QA... and some people have had that scenario (10 holes drilled in the wheel is ludicrous), or you need to add shims. But I think the vast majority of we BS1400 owners have had a relatively easy tune-up job. This doesn't actually cost anything, except a little time. And if you do it well, on any bandsaw, you can eliminate drift.

                Finally, there is little crowing about the Grizzly or JET fences, but the Kreg fence is widely very well regarded. So, there's your $100 or so cost. Even with all the above, the BS1400 arrives about $100 cheaper than the Grizzly G0555X, which is the only one I could find which is equitable with the end-resulting Ridgid.
                I have the G0555 (not the X) because I couldn't get the Ridgid Bandsaw to work after going through two of them. I got the Grizz for about $50 more and what you get is heads above the Ridgid. It runs smooth due to the drivetrain being totally different. Comes with a decent fence, roller guides, blade tensioner. I have had no issues with the rubber tires. I agree with replacing the blade but that is all I replaced and it cuts with no drift and no vibration. And right now there is only a $30 price difference. Yes, you have to pay freight but you don't have to pay taxes so the difference is about $35 so you are still only talking about $65 difference and you end up with a saw that works straight out of the box with only a blade change. I am not knocking Ridgid and having tried the Ridgid I do have first hand experience with it and while it could be a fantastic machine for the price they dropped the ball on it. The other maddening thing is they know the issues but continue with the original design and have made no changes to try and correct them.

                Comment


                • #23
                  Re: BS1400 Vibration issues

                  Hello
                  I agree with Ray concerning Ridgid's continued manufacture of this saw with out any improvements!
                  COME ON RIDGID, AFTER ALL THE COMPLAINTS ( I KNOW SOMEONE THERE MUST READ THESE FORUMS) S0 DO SOMETHING!! I thought we would see the new bandsaw that was at the wood show, but nothing yet. WHAT IS THE DEAL? I am one of the BS 1402 owners that has too much invested in the saw to get another one, but would like to see Ridgid fix a LEMON!!!!!!!!!!!!
                  Ron

                  Comment


                  • #24
                    Re: BS1400 Vibration issues

                    For probrand
                    is anybody at ridgid looking into a fix???????????????????

                    Comment


                    • #25
                      Re: BS1400 Vibration issues

                      I just noticed the model number on my bandsaw is BS14002. I wonder what the improvement caused them to change the model number?

                      Comment


                      • #26
                        Re: BS1400 Vibration issues

                        The 14002 is the one we are talking about.

                        Comment


                        • #27
                          Re: BS1400 Vibration issues

                          Ridgid
                          ARE WE GOING TO SEE ANY FIXES TO THIS ISSUE!!!!!!

                          Comment


                          • #28
                            Re: BS1400 Vibration issues

                            Below is a review I wrote on this saw in the tool review section some time ago.

                            Note: while this review is of the BS1400 model, the owner's manual calls it the BS14002. I do not know if the addition of the number 2 signifies an upgrade or is just the full number not listed correctly in the catalog. The earlier "gray" version might have been the plain, old BS1400. In any case, the one being reviewed here is the orange version seen easily at any Home Depot store, usually selling for about $350.

                            OK, this is a pretty basic band saw in the old style. It came with the standard metal guide blocks and the usual, right-angle positioned bearing behind the blade. The frame is cast iron, as is the work table. The wheels appear to be cast (not machined) iron, but they seem decently round, and the offset, 3/4-HP induction motor is attached to the lower wheel by means of an automotive type V-belt, shielded by a metal housing. The blade guard and upper guide assembly can be raised or lowered for a maximum cut of 6 inches by means of a single release knob. Ridgid offers a 6-inch extender for those who want the saw to resaw really large boards.

                            The saw can be wired for either 120- or 240-volt operation. It came configured for the former, and that is where I left things. The manual offers rewireing instructions for a 240-volt hookup. The manual itself is better written than some of the other tool manuals I have seen.

                            The saw comes with a stand that is decently stiff, with an additional metal sheet under the top surface to stiffen it up a bit. The motor is rubber mounted. Assembling the stand and saw was a relative snap.

                            I do most of my woodworking out on a deck adjacent to my small shop (I am in north Florida, where this is possible 9 months of the year, with the summer months being just too hot), so I built a wooden platform under the stand, bolted them together, and installed 3-inch pivoting wheels on the bottom. This allows me to move the 200 pound assembly easily onto the deck.

                            OK, now let's get down to the details.

                            First, the saw vibrated too much out of the box. I discovered that the main offenders were the V-belt and the cast wheels. The belt was, well, junk, with a twist to it and too damned much stiffness. I went to an automotive parts shop and had the clerk (you need a clerk with a good attitude) go into the back and locate a flexible, segmented belt the same length. That solved much of the saw's vibration problem. I have the belt's stock/size number written down somewhere if anybody wants it.

                            I also installed little clip-on weights to each wheel. To do this accurately you need to remove the blade and V-belt and let gravity swing the wheels down to where the heavy sections are at the bottom. (This operation also allowed one to assess the condition of the wheel bearings.) You then clip the weight on at the top and check again to see if gravity pulls the wheels in any direction after releasing them at different positions. If they do not move they are balanced enough. If things are still off you need larger weights, a second weight, or a smaller weight. I was lucky, and I hit the mark on the first try. This modification solved nearly all of the remaining vibration problem.

                            I topped off the anti-vibration mods by solidly mounting the motor. Yep, I removed the rubber mounts (which looked like afterthought jokes) and replaced them with a small sheet of properly drilled out 3/4-inch MDF. I also added additional stiffness to the stand's mounting plate by installing an additional and larger sheet of drilled-oout 3/4-inch MDF under the metal surface. Doing this mandated longer mounting screws and large washers below, needless to say. This series of modifications allowed the saw to be butter smooth in its operation. The rubber belts already installed on the wheels were no problem, although I did purchase two spares for future use.

                            I also replaced the metal guide blocks with some fiber-material "cool blocks" that Ridgid was offering for sale at the time via their phone-order service. In addition, I removed the lower blade guard from the unit, because it appeared to not be needed at all and mainly functioned as a barrier to easily adjusting the lower guide blocks and bearing.

                            While side-mounted rubbing blocks seem outdated compared to newer-design saws that use bearings in those locations, I believe that the blocks might have one advantage over bearings: they scrape the blade clean as it runs. Bearings might just compress built-up sludge on the blade surface as it runs and gradually pinch it too hard. This is just a theory, of course, with some woods possibly causing more problems than others.

                            The upper and lower sections of the saw's cast-iron frame are held together by a large nut and bolt, plus large washers. There was space at that junction point for an additional smaller nut and bolt (and rectangular washers that I cut myself), and I installed them to make damned sure that the two sections locked together with little chance of the cast iron being overstressed.

                            Finally, I expanded the size of the table by adding a wooden frame made out of 2x4 sections around its back edge, right-side, and front edge. The left-side edge got a narrower piece of wood so that the table could still tilt a few degrees in that direction. This wooden frame around the cast-iron table is screwed together and is held in place by additional screws running into the pre-drilled holes in the front and back of the table. The wooden section is kept in cosmetic shape by regular applications of lemon oil. The notch for blade removal in the cast-iron table is continued through the wooden extension section on the right side, with the groove in the wooden pieces held together with a stiff, quick-release crosspiece below. The overall table is now 20 x 18 inches in size, with lines scribed into the wooden extensions to help keep things aligned when doing freehand or fence cuts.

                            Another review I read about the saw said that the optional fence Ridgid offers is not all that good. This is one reason I was not afraid to do the wooden extension modification, since doing it would make it impossible to use the Ridgid fence. I made a fence of my own out of lumber, and if I need a fence I simply hold it in place with clamps, making sure that it is parallel to the lines scribed into the wooden extension sections. Most of my cutting is done freehand, however.

                            The wooden table expansion does two things. First, it offers a larger work surface. Second, it keeps the edge of the cast-iron table from marring any work pieces.

                            I removed the 3/8 inch blade that came with the saw and replaced it with a 1/2 incher for better straight-line cutting. For curved cuts that do not involve workpieces that are too large I use a small Ryobi 9-inch model with a 1/4-inch blade. Some of the mods I did on the larger Ridgid model were also done on the smaller Ryobi unit: wood-edged table enlarging and wheel balancing. The little Ryobi is a good saw for craftsman type jobs.

                            Overall, I think the 14-inch, Ridigid BS14002 model is a good saw, particularly for the $350 that I paid. Yes, I had to work on it a bit to get it up to snuff, but the result is an item that I can use for decently precise work.

                            Howard Ferstler

                            Comment


                            • #29
                              Re: BS1400 Vibration issues

                              Howard
                              I know about all the aftermarket fixes and done most of them.
                              What I am doing is trying to get Ridgid to tell us something on the NEW bandsaw that was quickly shown at one of the trade shows and on the forum here. Either the 14002 is going to be replaced or not! All we hear about are new tablesaws, pressure washers and drill batteries, etc, but nothing on a new bandsaw. As I said earlier in the postings, I have too much invested (never be able to get my money out of it) in mine to sell and replace on a new Ridgid, but for new customers, it sure would be a plus to have a bandsaw that is competitive in performance without extensive modifications. Ron

                              Comment


                              • #30
                                Re: BS1400 Vibration issues

                                Originally posted by cisco1138 View Post
                                Reviving an old post, yes but most important, reviving an old Bandsaw! I too am picking my jaw up off the floor. I just installed a Grizzly Riser and a Laguna Resaw King blade.

                                There is no more drift, got 16 sheets of veneer from a 6/4 stock. there was no need to plane the stock between passes, the Resaw King left no teeth marks a light sanding wont eliminate.

                                It is an expensive upgrade for a Laguna Resaw King, for sure! I entered RKWOODNET in the promo code field and got a 25% discount. That made it more reasonable. Considering how much we pay for router bits and circular saw blades, not to mention planer knives, I don't regret this upgrade one bit.

                                There is just one more improvement I need to do, that is to make the wheels co-planer. The current offset is causing the blade to start cutting from the bottom, at the table, before it cuts at the top, by the blade guide, ever so slightly!
                                Hey Cisco1138,

                                Can I ask which model # of the Grizzly Riser did you install and if had to do any mods in order to make it fit.

                                Thanks

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