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  • #16
    Originally posted by swede:
    LGLDSR73,

    Not sure which ZCI's your are referring to, but the ones that I have ordered through Might-T-Track have a metal tab that seats the rear in place, it is very secure on my TS3650. Again, not sure if you were talking about the ZCI's from Rockler or from Forrest and Might-T-Track.

    Swede
    Swede,

    I'm referring to the one's from Rockler. That back tab isn't present and there is nothing holding that rear in place.

    [ 03-16-2005, 05:38 PM: Message edited by: ld ]

    Comment


    • #17
      Originally posted by spacebluesonoma:
      The ones I bought do in fact have a pin to secure it! Maybe you picked up a bad one missing a pin? I have 2, actually one that has been used and one that will likely turn into a DADO insert.

      My concern was the missing screw hole, which i posted on this very forum and was told not to worry about it. Again the ones I bought did indeed have a pin. If you get one that doesn't it is just a standard tension pin. nothing a small drill bit and a tack hammer can't fix
      Spacebluesonoma,

      You mean the one's you saw/bought from Rockler had the tab? At their Stores (one is five miles from here) I've looked at the only three they have and none of those do.

      http://www.rockler.com/ecom7/product...ro%20clearence

      Comment


      • #18
        Originally posted by LGLDSR73:
        </font><blockquote>quote:</font><hr />Originally posted by badgerdave:
        Not quite sure what you mean by "suffixed with "3/8"" but if you ordered a blank(uncut) insert you'll be OK if whoever you ordered from claims that the insert is for a 3650.
        Thanks. I ordered it from OrderTree.Com, which means I should see it in about nine months. By "suffixed" I meant that the description was something to the effect of:

        AC-1045, Zero Clearance Insert, 3/8"
        </font>[/QUOTE]I AM IN SHOCK. I placed the order for the ZCI with OrderTree on the 14th and it arrived today...I had to sit down and catch my breath. Must have been an oversight on their part (pardon the pun) to have gotten it out so quickly. Came USPS Priority Mail.

        The only reason I am so vicious is because last mid-December I ordered five arbor nuts (I wasn't going to pay shipping on just one). By mid-February I still did not have them. After several emails and a telephone call it turned out that they only had four in stock and were holding up the Order awaiting the arrival of the fifth nut.

        I asked them to ship what they had, which they did.

        As was pointed out in another Post, this really is flimsly plastic for $33.00. An absolute rip-off. In addition to the leveling screws there is a fifth screw on the side to compensate for any lateral shifting. However, I will say that this did go into place nice and snug.

        Nonetheless, I am going to give the Might-T-Track a try since it's nearly 1/3rd the cost.

        Thanks to *everyone* for your input!

        [ 03-16-2005, 05:54 PM: Message edited by: ld ]

        Comment


        • #19
          Wow! You did get RIPPED OFF! I don't think I'd ever order anything from them again. A 20% restocking fee is ridiculous.
          Might-T-Track, 3D Saw Blades (Forrest), and Rockler all offer a money back guarantee, no restocking fee.

          Comment


          • #20
            Whether they realize it not, there IS going to come a day when Home Depot and consequently TTI/RIDGID are both going to suffer at the cash register for HD's refusal to inventory accessories for RIDGID products.

            At one point in time but not any longer, the local HD's here stocked the blank TS inserts and sold them for around $15. For OrderTree to charge full MSRP for this item is ridiculous!

            HD also used to stock the planer knives but they have disappeared off the shelves as well. In all honesty, I never did see any jointer blades or riser block kits but then again, I never looked for them either.

            In the next year or two I plan on upgrading and purchasing a new jointer and planer. Both the RIDGID jointer and planer have received good reviews from many sources. The jointer would have definately made my short list. However, I will not even consider purchasing either one of them due to the complete lack of available commodity accessories at any of the HD's in the area.

            It just totally amazes me that they just don't get it. How can they not know that these parts/accessories wear out?
            Teach your kids about taxes..........eat 30 percent of their ice cream.

            Comment


            • #21
              I've got a new TS2400LS and my father-in-law has an older TS2412 and I just wanted to say I have finally seen the difference in the OLD & NEW inserts.

              Well, I had ordered 2 ZCI's from Might-T-Track for my saw a while back and could not be more pleased with them. My father-in-law was interested in getting a couple of them as was a guy at work who has a Delta saw, and I had a few more items I wanted to get from them. Just received the order (took only 1 week, as did my 1st order), and here is the basic differences ...

              NEW Ridgid (#436): 3/8" thick
              OLD Ridgid (#442): 1/2" thick in middle, 0.21" thick at edge 3/4" in all the way around.
              Both have the back LIFT PIN, front screw hole, and 4 set screws for setting height. Outside dimensions are the same, yet the OLD version is a hair wider.

              Delta inserts (#444) are 1/2" thick, have rear lift pin, and 4 height adj. set screws.

              My father-in-law's saw came with one of the Ridgid molded plastic ZCI's (AC1035), and I must say I like the Might-T-Track solid UHMW construction much better.

              Doug

              Comment


              • #22
                I'm surprised no one has mentioned the idea of making your own insert. It couldn't be easier. Take a piece of 1/2" MDF or Ply, trace the shape of your stock insert on it and cut it a little over sized with a bandsaw or jigsaw. Then, using double-sided tape (available at wally-world), tape the plywood/mdf "blank" to the stock insert.

                Now, clamp one end of the taped assembly to your workbench or table, and trim the blank to size with a flush trim bit in your router. Drill a 3/4' thumb hole close to one end (so you can pull it out when you need to) and a countersunk hole in the other end for the mounting screw.

                Voila, now you have a ZCI that you can use for standard blades or dado sets. Make several blanks at once so you can use them for different purposes. I even have a dedicated 45ยบ insert for beveling.

                If you find that your final blank is a bit too thick, it's easy to sand down. If it's too thin, add a couple pieces of masking tape to the underside. They're not as pretty as the ones at Rockler, but they're a lot cheaper than $12 a piece, and they work just as well.

                Also, you may find it helpful to use a 6" or 8" blade to cut the original slot. Noramlly, a 10" blade will not allow the blank slot to rest all the way in the opening. I wouldn't dare suggest you do it the way I did.

                Comment


                • #23
                  Worth repeating

                  I made mine from 1/2" MDF and high pressure laminate.

                  Click here to view my post second from the bottom how I made mine. I could not believe how easy it was to make

                  Comment


                  • #24
                    Re: Zero Clearance Insert

                    I don't know if there is a difference between the TS2400LS mobile table saw and the 3650, but I have made my own ZCI's and Dado Inserts with 3/8" ply (Arauco) which is a Birch or Poplar faced ply, as well as some scraps of Maple that I had laying around.

                    I simply used the factory aluminum insert as a template, traced it onto the material and cut it on the bandsaw, finished the edges on my oscillating spindle sander and, at least with the hard maple that i used, drilled and tapped the holes for some Allen-head set screws. For the rear anti-lift tab, which is about 3/16" thick, I also drilled and tapped for a set-screw threaded from the opposite direction from the height adjustment screws to "tension the rear of the plate. I also added a 5th height screw midway fore-aft on the arbor side of the blade to reduce warpage and adjust "flat" on the narrow side of the kerf cut.

                    As soon as possible, I will upload some pictures and post them here. For finish, I used some Danish oil finish from Deft which provides and ultraslick coating and protects the wood and IMHO does a MUCH better job than even Bostik's Top Cote. It also adds a touch of "Craftsmanship" to my saw.

                    Hope you guys find this info helpful.

                    Note that my "cost" was only my time in machining the plates and using scrap material that may have other wise gone to waste.

                    Mike

                    Comment


                    • #25
                      Re: Zero Clearance Insert

                      I got mine at peachtree woodworking, which work fine, but ended up making an entire batch out of mdf one day with a flush trim bit. I put a screw in sideways in the back and I have 4 blanks just waiting to be used. I've already used 2 others. One for raised panels, one for box joints, etc. Can't have too many.

                      I started with 3/4 mdf, and then put a rabbet around the edge so they fit perfectly flush without the need for set screws. Just have to start the kerf with a smaller blade, as the 10" blade will not allow the blank to sit flat. I use my 6" dado set to start the groove off and then finish it off with the proper blade.

                      Comment


                      • #26
                        Re: Zero Clearance Insert

                        I've also made my own inserts for the table saw out of mdf. They work perfectly, and i get them in less then a half an hour cuz i make them. These are especially useful for dado blades.

                        Comment


                        • #27
                          Re: Zero Clearance Insert

                          I to made my inserts http://www.ridgidforum.com/forum/showthread.php?t=14083 I cut them with the tabs and dadoed them to fit using a file to find tune them. The 1/2" MDF is a little shy of being level so I drilled and tapped the holes for leveling. I used the same size leveling screws which are #10-32 x 3/8" long and can be found at Home Depot. For about the same price as one of the manufactured inserts you can buy a 2' x 4' sheet of MDF at HD and make more inserts than you will ever need.
                          I also painted them, for safety, because when using a single blade it blended too well with the MDF.

                          Comment


                          • #28
                            Re: Zero Clearance Insert

                            The 2400 inserts are not as thick as the 2412 or 3650. I found the best material for ZCIs is scrap laminate flooring. Very easy to make here is a tutorial I made for them for my TS2400. http://www.hoistman.com/HoistMan/ZCItute.html
                            info for all: http://www.hoistman.com http://www.freeyabb.com/phpbb/index....wwtoolinfoforu --- "I like long walks, especially when they are taken by people who annoy me."

                            Comment


                            • #29
                              Re: Zero Clearance Insert

                              Thanks for the inspiration, Papadan - I made a ZCI for my 2400 yesterday. I've got the new orange one, but your instructions were still very easy to follow.

                              I didn't have turner's tape (the nearest place to get it is Woodcraft, half an hour away) so you can see I used vinyl glass tac tape - it's what we use to install no-glue vinyl flooring. It did an excellent job holding together, and left absolutely no residue behind.



                              And then I tried scoring the ZCI, but I was afraid of going to deep (didn't want to weaken any structural integrity that the cheapo lam flooring may have had) so I ended up mount a 7 1/4 " Finishing blade to start the cut. The same blade, in fact, that I did my last few laminate jobs on.



                              I'm taking a week off at the end of January to build Norm's deluxe router station - it looks like fun.

                              Comment


                              • #30
                                Re: Zero Clearance Insert

                                Fightgar: Nice work. I basically did the same thing using some scrap baltic birch cabnet grade plywood and made 5 inserts for my TS3650. After sanding and two coats of clear poly, they work great.

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