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  • Took everyones advise, but need help

    After reading everyones views and doing some thinking, I bought the 3650. Took awhile to set it up. Only problem I'm have right now is because my cement floor is now level, I have to adjust the legs up and either the wheels to the lift wont go up high enough to lift all four legs, or all the legs wont rest on the floor while it's down. I don't plan on moving it too much so not a big deal. Heres the problem, I also got the Fread combo LU84R011 (no brainer on that one) but also the Dado SD208. I have never used a dado stack before, and don't nkow how to put the peices together (what blade goes next to the other blade) for different cuts. Is there a rule just the outside blades are used and when to use the chippers. And where do the shims go inbetween? Any books or videos on this subject so I can get a better knowledge on dados?
    Gee, I spent some money today hu?

  • #2
    Re: Took everyones advise, but need help

    Congrats on your purchase
    A dado blade can be used to cut wider slots in one pass than a regular blade can. When you stack blades to achieve the desired width align the teeth so that the added blade's teeth sit in the spaces between the teeth of the first blade, this rule applies to the chippers as well as when using only the two outside blades (minimum thickness cut). When using more than one chipper offset the teeth evenly, some people just offset each chipper 90° from the next which is fine, I like to space them evenly, for example if I have 3 chippers installed I orient them at 60° and 120° offset to the first one (close counts here).
    The shims are used in between the chippers and/or outer blades to achieve the exact with of the slot that you are cutting, for example if you are cutting dadoes for a bookshelf using plywood shelves that are not 3/4", you will likely have to add a shim to get to exactly 3/4" as well.

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    • #3
      Re: Took everyones advise, but need help

      You will also need to make (or purchase) new throat plate inserts. It is best to make them (search this site for excellent instructions) as it is best to have 'zero clearance' between the blade and the insert to help with chipout and dust collection. You can just run with a dado insert that is basically a wide (around 13/16") slot cut out.

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      • #4
        Re: Took everyones advise, but need help

        A dado set can be dangerous so definitely study up a bit before trying it out. I've gotta ask...what made the LU84R011 a "no brainer"? I know it's a decent blade but never considered it head and shoulders above the competition. Doesn't Freud and others suggest a thin blade with the 3650?

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        • #5
          Re: Took everyones advise, but need help

          ernurse, I've run the LU84R011 on my Ridgid 3612 since the day I bought it. Never had any issues with that blade at all. Arguments can be made for using thin kerf blades on TS's with smaller motors but a properly aligned TS will perform perfectly fine with a regular kerf blade also. Personally, I happen to prefer regular kerf blades over thin kerf so I agree, the LU84 was a no brainer choice.
          Teach your kids about taxes..........eat 30 percent of their ice cream.

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          • #6
            Re: Took everyones advise, but need help

            Well Bench Dog, we are both right. Your right about the thin blade, and I'm right because it was a "no brainer", because thats what I was using when I bought the wrong blade. I was in such a big (kid in a candy store) hurry to buy everything and get it home, I didn't notice I had grabbed the wrong blade. I thought it was a thin and didn't take the time to read it correctly. It's a wonder I still have all my fingers with my slipping brain cells. Back to the store I go.

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            • #7
              Re: Took everyones advise, but need help

              ernurse,

              About the dado set, here is a set up guide from Freud. I have an SD508 set and this handy chart came with it for all Freud dadoes by model number.

              http://www.freudtools.com/images/man...pper-Chart.pdf

              The shims on Freud dado sets are not marked. So you will need to measure them and mark them with a Sharpie. HD has a nice digital caliper for around $40 which also does fractional measurements. Do not use the fractional feature to measure the shims though. Some of them are 4 thousandths of and inch.

              Have fun,
              Ern

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              • #8
                Re: Took everyones advise, but need help

                Thank you for the chart. I printed it out and will blow it up to post in the shop. This was a lot of help

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                • #9
                  Re: Took everyones advise, but need help

                  I use the LU84R011 on my 3650 with no problems. I'm with Badger Dave in preferring the full kerf blade. If planning on doing any resawing (ex: splitting a 2 x 4 down the narrow width), you will find the full kerf is better. The thin kerfs have a tendency to try to follow the grain in the wood, especially at the top, and can severely flex, to the point of binding the blade so tight it is very hard to remove.
                  This may be one of those "mistakes" that you will be happy you made in the future.
                  As for the dado, I always make a test cut (or cuts (plural) which is most often the case) to check the fit of the dado before making the money cut. The test does not have to be in the same species of wood, so cheap pine or ply will be fine for getting the snug-but-not-tight fit you want. Also, check your shims closely. Sometimes they have oil on them, and stick together. What you think is a .016" shim may actually be two .008" shims stuck together. (DAMHIKT)

                  Go
                  Last edited by Gofor; 12-12-2007, 08:57 PM.
                  Practicing at practical wood working

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