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TS3650 Tolerances

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  • TS3650 Tolerances

    I have been very pleased with my saw right out of the box. I used a gauge to check the blade for heeling. I found that it is out of parallel .016". Before I loosen up the trunions and try for more accuracy. Has anyone successfully been able to get a closer adjustment? Thanks for any comments.

  • #2
    Yep, keep adjusting till you get very, very close. It may take quite a while, but you need to get it better than .016.


    • #3
      Jim: Take your time, and you can get it much better than .016. I would advise getting a dail indicator to check the blade and fence alignment with. They aren't that expensive.

      I would also advise getting into a routine of checking both on a regular basis.

      My 3650 was within .004 on the fence, and about .010 on the blade out of the box. I have the blade to around .004 now.

      It's a great saw, I just wish the arbor was longer.

      Take care, and watch those fingers.



      • #4
        I think this is Tuesday night's project then. I do have a dial indicator. I hadn't thoughtof using it on the fence. Thanks for the suggestion. Woodrat, it's good to see another Jayhawk. I'm in Wichita.


        • #5
          I bought a good dial gauge (A-Line-It), and I've got my blade virtually perfectly in parallel (.001"). I loosen ONLY the three rear trunnion screws, then use the micro-adjust lever on the center rear trunnion screw as I watch the gauge. Doing it this way should allow you to get that blade almost perfectly parallel to the miter slot.

          One note on adjusting the rip fence: You will need to align it with the lever unlocked. Try to get the fence as parallel as you can. My dial gauge showed a couple of small bumps (.001"-.002") in the face of the front, but it is otherwise very flat. After you get the fence as straight as you can, tighten the four screws, then lock down the lever and measure again with your gauge. After locking mine down, the rear of the fence will flex about .008" to .009" away from the blade. A lot of people will suggest setting the rear a little further out than the front. This can help reduce burning and kickback. But you would not want a reading as great as I get. In my case, I have to over-compensate a bit when I adjust the fence, knowing it will flex a little to the right when I lock it down.

          One last note on setting the heeling on the blade. In-Line Industries, who makes my gauge, has other products especially well suited for contractor saws. One of them is called PALS. These simple devices take the place of your rear outside trunnion screws. They not only offer their own micro-adjustment of the rear trunnion, but they allow you to really lock down your settings so they don't change over time. You can see their products here.
          There are three kinds of people in this world - those who can count, and those who can't.


          • #6
            Just thought I would give an update to those interested. Yesterday morning I spent about 45 minutes on saw and got the blade down to .002. Wasn't as difficult as I thought it would be. Thanks for the encouragement.

            Jim F