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"Most Economical" Shop Heater

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  • #16
    Re: "Most Economical" Shop Heater

    My shop is 32 x 40, insulated with foam board and 1/4" OSB over that... door seal isn't all that tight. I have a wood burner in there and since I heat the house with wood anyway it makes sense. Was out there last night for a few hours and I brought it from 20F to 60F in about an hour and a half...

    Economically speaking, it's cheap for me to heat the shop I guess... Best part is lack of fumes from a kerosene heater, etc... I would love to go to an outdoor hot water wood burner and heat both home and shop at the same time... Maybe next year as home remodeling has priority at the moment...

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    • #17
      Re: "Most Economical" Shop Heater

      I've been using propane for the last 3 years.

      The most economical is the single burner screw-on type. However, it just gave up on me, so I'm now using my 40,000 BTU floor model, which works great, but isn't all that economical, and sounds like a jet engine running in my shop. I thinking I got about a month of evenings and weekends out of the 50# canister.

      I don't care. I like to stay warm.
      Last edited by Carl762; 01-02-2008, 02:01 PM.

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      • #18
        Re: "Most Economical" Shop Heater

        What about fumes from a kerosene heater? I know my wife would be nuts saying that all the fumes will be getting into the house etc..........

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        • #19
          Re: "Most Economical" Shop Heater

          The most economical shop heater is that yellow ball in the sky, the problem is it not that reliable for some of us,

          IN the one shop I have infrared propane shop heaters, the nice thing is your warm even if the air temp is not up, I can st them on 35, and keep fairly warm with them running,
          If i want the air warm I have a job site heater, the one that sound like a jet engine, but there fairly good, run on kerosene or #1 diesel, in the wood shop I have a propane trailer house furnace, (forget the brand right now), the nice thing is the flame is not exposed to the room as it fresh air is not from the room.

          the best thing one can do is seal up and insulate, and keep the cold out, and the heat in,

          one shop, a machine shop, and they said it worked well the building was a east and west setting, but they had built a solar collector on the south side on the wall of the shop, (flat on the wall, and jsut had a line voltage thermostat in it, to kick on a fan when the panel was up to temp and a simple louver system they said many days they did not need any supplemental heat,
          Push sticks/blocks Save Fingers
          ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
          "The true measure of a man is how he treats someone who can do him absolutely no good."
          attributed to Samuel Johnson
          ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
          PUBLIC NOTICE: Due to recent budget cuts, the rising cost of electricity, gas, and oil...plus the current state of the economy............the light at the end of the tunnel, has been turned off.

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          • #20
            Re: "Most Economical" Shop Heater

            Kerosene is by far the most economical of all the choices.

            Did you know that you can also use Regular fuel Oil?

            It burns as cleanly as K1 and is more often than not, cheaper. You can go to ANY Fuel Oil/Propane supplier and setup an account, they will deliver a storage drum and fill it for you. You simply setup a spigot and fill your portable tank to refill your heater. Fuel oil in Upstate NY, where I live is about 2.40/Gal. I regularly see temps at and BELOW 0 during Dec/Jan/Feb. It is not uncommomn to wake up at -30 in the mornings. I have a propane heater on the wall to maintain the heat, and use my Kero Forced Air and a Convection heater as supplemental heat to heat my shop (24x40x20) whenever I HAVE to open the Garage door. However, I am HIGHLY insulated. I have a 10x9 Aluminum Garage door and I insulated the panels with 2" Foil Faced Foam and that alone reduced my heating cost by 45%! The foam is light enough that it doesn't over-tax the lift motor and I didn't need to adjust the lift-assist springs to carry the extra weight, which was MAYBE 3 pounds for 1-1/2 sheets.

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            • #21
              Re: "Most Economical" Shop Heater

              I installed the Hot Dawg from Modine about 6 years ago. It is a 65K BTU model and we live in northern Utah. I could not run natural gas so I opted for propane. I set up (2) 10 gal tanks with a travel trailer regulator, so when one tank empties the other one kicks in. When two of the three tanks that I have are empty I go fill them up. This year we have had cold weather, December had many days in the single digits at night and less than 32* during the day. My cost of heating was about $1.00 per day. I keep it at 50* when away and at 64*-68* when working. The walls are R-13 and the ceiling is R-38.

              I love the heater, it warms up in about 5 minutes and does not cycle a lot.

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              • #22
                2.40/Gal. for heating oil??

                WOW, that is cheap. heating oil here is $3.29/Gal right now.
                And you are in NY which is usually more than NJ.

                I live < 25 miles from two refineries, if the wind was blowing right I could probabaly run off the fumes. Well, not in today's world, but back before the EPS was around those places (all around the country) got away with murder.

                Murdering the enviroment that is.
                "When we build let us think we build forever. Let it not be for present delight nor for present use alone. Let it be such work that our descendants will thank us for, and let us think, as we lay stone upon stone, that a time is to come when these stones will be held sacred because our hands have touched them, and that men will say, as they look upon the labor and wrought substance of them, "See! This our fathers did for us."
                John Ruskin (1819 - 1900)

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                • #23
                  Re: &quot;Most Economical&quot; Shop Heater

                  The most economical is most likey radiant heat in the cement, but it has to be planned when the building is built. Once that cement is warm it stays warm for awhile. It just uses a hotwater heater in the corner. I personally use an old oil furnace that someone took out of their house. I got the furnace and tank for free. All I had to do is put in the chimney pipe. I also partition my garage off with a tarp on a cable so I do not heat a portion of the building that stores cars that I do not use in the winter. In the summer i pull the tarp back. Just as everyone says Insulation is the key.

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