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3650 Herc-U-Lift assemby question

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  • 3650 Herc-U-Lift assemby question

    I've seen postings here and elsewhere that suggest the Ridgid 3650 Herc-U-Lift jigsaw puzzle is rather challenging. Let me ask Ridgid -- or any assembly vets -- a specific question.

    The manual says to attach the upper and lower assemblies of the Herc-U-Lift underneath the leg brackets using 4 1/4 20 x 1-5/8 bolts held on (under the assemblies) by a 1/4 washer and a 1/4-20 lock nut. It says to only tighten the nut as far as the bottom of the bolt. OK, did that. Strange, but I get it.

    But the part that weirds me out is this. The bolts flop around since there is a huge amount of play. I realize the idea is to allow movement, but this seems a little extreme. Moreover, even if I wanted to "snug up" the bolt and reduce the amount of play by tightening the nut, the nut ends up disappearing into the "large hole" that the manual instructed me to put in that position.

    Am I assembling this thing right?? And why would I need a washer above the nut, since the bolt isn't touching anything?

  • #2
    First of all, welcome to the forum. Yeah, it's screwy, but that's the way it's supposed to be and you did it right. I put mine together the same way about 8 months ago and it still works so:
    Ours not to reason why. etc., etc.
    "Did you put the yellow key in the switch?" TOD 01/09/06


    • #3
      got to agree with you - it seems all wrong but somehow it continues to work.
      hey don't be like me and forget to put the leg stiffeners on!
      I still have them on my work bench [img]smile.gif[/img]
      Mick Chambers<br />Keller TX<br />


      • #4
        You did fine but they did a bad thing. The washers they are suppling are smaller then the hole and thus allow the nut and washer to suck up into the hole. You need to replace the washer with a standard 1/4inch washer. Just be sure its larger then the whole and it doesn't need to be a fender washer. Stop tightening the nut once you have a full thread exposed below it. This allows the flexiblity and it works the best of anything I have tried. Good Luck and Welcome to the forum.


        • #5
          Thanks to all for the comments, which helped much. I was in HD the other day and, just for fun, checked the way the store employees had assembled the Herc-U-Lift. Sure enough, they had run the nut as far up the bolt as possible. And when the employee tried to move the saw using the Herc-U-Lift, he could barely get it off the ground. Now it all makes sense.


          • #6
            It also works better if you replace those bolts with ones that do not have thread the full length ,that way it acts as a sliding pin better. The manual has that shown but the ones supplied are threaded all the way.


            • #7
              Hey guy's
              While we are on the subject of the herc-u-lift I have simple question. When I engage the Herc-u-lift and move the saw about the shop it gets hung up on the high spots in the garage floor. Is there any way to get the system to lift an farther than an 1/8"-3/16" off the floor??


              • #8

                I've got the same problem. I just assembled my saw yesterday and the Herculift was a bit of a pain. The instructions were pretty vague. One of the questions I had has to do with the lock nuts and whether or not you are supposed to tighten the bolts in the middle of the Herculift system, not the ones attached to the legs (if that makes any sense). The instructions say to hand tighten them only and that they will be tightened later. Well, there is no mention of it later, so should I go ahead and tighten them, or is there supposed to be some play in the bolts like the leg attachements?

                When I use the lift, the back two legs come up off the ground with plenty of clearance, but the front two are the ones that tend to stick in some spots.


                • #9
                  go ahead and tighten the ones in the middle of the system, but don't over tighten them. If you did what we said about only tightening the corner ones until one thread comes thru the lock nuts then the unit should lift high enough to easil glide over a fair even surface. If you are hitting you may need to adjust the leveling feet a little higher. I do mine at job sites and I'm able to clean most high spots. Good point about using the unthread bolts in the corner.


                  • #10
                    thanks for the tip Woodndust. I tightend everything up last night at it works great!!! This is the way to go! I'm amazed that others haven't incorporated this into their saws. IMHO the Herculift is way better than a mobile base because you can completely disengage the lift system, where as with the mobile bases I've used there were always wheels on the ground leading to instability (even with wheel locks).


                    • #11
                      Another thing you can do is to rip up a piece of pressure treated 5/8 x 1/2 x the width of side to side cross bar of the fronthalf assembly minus 3/4" on either end to allow lateral swivelling motion.

                      Line it up and mark and drill two 1/4" holes just inside where the rear-half's front to back bars come over the top. Clamp presstreated onto the bar. Drill 1/4" holes into top face of the bar. Tap the holes.

                      Counter sink the holes in your pressure treated, and anchor it all up with a couple 3/4 long 1/4" machine screws.

                      Guy who graded and poured *our* garage floor (in the 60's) musta been planning to run a bottle washing biz or something. Bet I went through the knees of about four pairs of jeans readjusting the feet before going radical.

                      At any rate the extra 1/2" fulcrum elevation means you won't have to keep playing with the feet to keep the Ridgid, rrr, ridgid? Sorry. Made all the difference in the world tho.